Alright I have an issue. I have a JDM D15b in my 93 hatch DX. I recently swapped out the dash harness with an EX one I found. Everything is plugged minus cruise control, and ABS/SRS plugs. My car recently died on me throwing codes IAT,Water Temp Sensor,and Electrical Overload and its started to smoke/burn my ECU's. I assumed it was the dash harness because it was hacked up by the previous owner. But the problem ended up being the IAT plug, it was touching each other. Its still not cranking, its getting fuel, spark, battery is good. But its not cranking, it does turnover. When I test it for spark, the light on plug glows very dim redish yellow color. I was told it was suppose to be very blue.

Battery light on the cluster is lite, so Im assuming the alternator is going bad? So I tried jumping the car, still a no go.


EDIT: My friend came over and I tested out my Dizzy(TD42U) and ECU on his car and everything works. Checked timing and its fine. Im stumped!! What else can it be??? Its going on for 3 weeks now, and I need this bad boy running.

Replaced:Dash/Cabin harness with an EX(ECU was smoking,threw a IAT,WATER TEMP SENSOR,ELECTRICAL OVERLOAD), Dash fuse box,ECU's,Ignition harness,Ignitor,Ignition Coil(tested still good), Dizzys, Checked Fuses,Checked Timing, checked grounds.

Really need some more ideas!!

Thanks

 

That's usually a sign of a bad coil. Have a local auto parts store test both coils for you.

 

Alright. I will give that try.

Thanks

 

bump! I need this thing running!!

 

Is your timing right? the JDM d15b comes VTEC and non-VTEC. The VTEC uses a different dizzy than the non-VTEC. If your using a d15b7 dizzy on the VTEC D15B, then you need a D16Z6 dizzy.

 

Timing is correct, and I have the Vtec version and im using a TD42U Sohc Vtec dizzy.

 

Check the thermostat ground and any other grounds, the thermostat ground is particularly important though. Also check all connections, such as where the engine harness plugs in at the shock tower plugs.

 

Tstat ground is good, 2 grounds on the dash harness is good,tranny,battery,valve cover...all good.

Is there any more other grounds? The only thing I did was replaced the dash harness with an EX one and double checked to see if everything was plugged up. My old one was hacked up and had a electrical overload and I assumed it was it cause ECU was smoking. But it wasnt, IAT was touching. Other than that, didnt mess with anything else.

 

bump

 

bump

 

Did you test the coil?

 

yes, the 2 that I have are all good.

 

Do you still have weak spark?

Do you measure 12V at the Blk/Yel and Wht/Blu wires connected to the unit igniter when the key is turned to ON(II)?

 

The spark is still not bright blue, so Im assuming that it is still weak.

The ign coil was measured off if the distributor and its was like 14.5 at the A B terminal and 16.5 or so on the A 2nd Winding Terminal. I cant remember exactly. I went to AZone, I dont have a voltmeter handy.

I also tried using my friends dizzy off his running car, and its still nothing. Im thinking it might be my engine harness, because I had a electrical overload CEL and found out my IAT wires were touching. Im thinking it might have shorted out the wires somewhere, but Im no longer throwing any code. I checked out the engine harness and it seems fine with no wires burnt or touching.

Im getting so frustrated.

 

I understood that your dizzy is fine. The voltage measurements that I suggested in my last post are to test whether the dizzy is getting proper voltage from the battery through the ignition switch.

 

Got cha. I will give that a try. Thanks for how to.

 

I dont understand step 7 though. Kind of confusing.

 

The service manual does not describe a specific test for the igniter unit so, when you are having ignition problems, it has you test every other possibility and ,if all is fine, then by default the igniter unit must be bad.

 

and if its a bad ignitor usually u gotta just replace the dizzy but you already said you tried one from off your friends running one....

 

Correct, and I have tried 2 different Igniters that I know that works.

Thanks RonJ@HT for trying to help me out, it seems like its hard to get a response and answer on HT nowadays. Either that or this year is my bad year.

I need this piece running!

 

Based on what you have said, your dizzy, coil, and igniter are fine. So regardless of what the outcome of the tests are, don't replace the igniter unit. The electrical tests of wires in the diagram is simply to test whether your dizzy is getting proper voltage from the battery. Have you done the voltage tests?

 

^^^he's right. its easy to check for correct volts. when i couldnt start my car this is what i did to troubleshoot and found out my ignition wires were fried so i rebuild and spliced new wires

 

Not yet. Car is not at my house. I will tomorrow.

I replaced my ignition switch with a 96-00 one(just had to switch around 2 different wires), but im going to try and switch back to my old one just to try everything since it seemed to be working fine.

 

Hi,
You should double check if the alternator output voltage is charging too high
especially when it is over 1500rpm. Good luck.

 

Please don't bump old threads on a whim. Closed.