How long do you allow for break in before dyno?
I was just curious to get some feedback about Breaking in the motor. Some have said just start it up and idle and slap it on the dyno others have said you need to give it time to break in and let the rings seat.any advice or feedback helps dont want to ruin a motor with allot of money in it.
i let mine run for 20 minutes, changed the oil and filter and on the dyno i went. no problems yet.every builder has their own break in procedure. do what you feel more comfortable with. i could not break in my engine on the street nice and easy because my car is a strip only car.
That makes sense so assuming a strip car can break in with an idle for a street car that may see less strefful enviorments should be ok to do the same?
I did the same thing as the guy above only I just started the motor and let the radiator fan turn on 3-5 times to get it to temp and check leaks everywhere, no oil change. I had my car towed to the tuner, only 10 minutes away luckily and he slowly up the rpms. After about an hour or so is when he started to put good load and ramp up the rpms, 6K+.
I went 17K miles boosted until I took the snail off and I am back NA at the moment. My car is now at 35K miles with solid compression on all 4.
My tune was conservative since I DD mine. 248whp/215wtq were my numbers on a B16.
I went 17K miles boosted until I took the snail off and I am back NA at the moment. My car is now at 35K miles with solid compression on all 4.
My tune was conservative since I DD mine. 248whp/215wtq were my numbers on a B16.
just get it to operating temperature a couple times, change the oil, check for leaks, and do a break in on the dyno like you would on the street
take it to 3k let it engine brake back to idle
take it to 4k let it engine brake back to idle
take it to 5k ""
then slowly start to turn up the boost and tune it like a normal car
take it to 3k let it engine brake back to idle
take it to 4k let it engine brake back to idle
take it to 5k ""
then slowly start to turn up the boost and tune it like a normal car
I never changed my oil...Towed it to the dyno, started it, let it heat up, do mild runs as noted in the post above mine, and you should be good to go.
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I did mine on the street. Started it up, let it warm up, drove it around like normal getting the street tune down. Then I went out on the highway and did some 8psi pulls. This was 2 years ago and the engine is running great still.
we built a turbo b16 motor for one of my co-workers at honda and we started it up and let it heat up and took idle readings and let it complete the monitors and then checked for leaks and did an oil change and took it on the street and loaded the fuel and timing maps on it conservitively then run it up to 9k in every gear leaving it in gear to let the motor slow the car and we had perfect compression in all 4, then we took it to the dyno and then track and did further tuning
My procedures worked well for every built motor that gets tuned here...
- Fill up coolant, fresh oil and filter (thinner oil works better -- 5w-30 or even 0w-20 regular)
- Let the engine run until the fans cycle, check for leaks, thermostat opening, etc..
- Change the oil and filter. This oil will be used on the dyno. I usually use 10w-30 regular oil
- Mild runs on the dyno for the first 30 mins... Light loads, and a few light revs to higher RPM's
- Let the engine cool down for 30 mins... Recheck oil levels, etc...
- Tuning can begin... I'd still allow 10-15 minute breaks between hard pulls. I'd tune for low boost runs.. Averaging 20-30 pulls on the dyno.
- If tuning the car for max power and race gas afterwards, I will do another oil change and go with a much thicker synthetic.
- Fill up coolant, fresh oil and filter (thinner oil works better -- 5w-30 or even 0w-20 regular)
- Let the engine run until the fans cycle, check for leaks, thermostat opening, etc..
- Change the oil and filter. This oil will be used on the dyno. I usually use 10w-30 regular oil
- Mild runs on the dyno for the first 30 mins... Light loads, and a few light revs to higher RPM's
- Let the engine cool down for 30 mins... Recheck oil levels, etc...
- Tuning can begin... I'd still allow 10-15 minute breaks between hard pulls. I'd tune for low boost runs.. Averaging 20-30 pulls on the dyno.
- If tuning the car for max power and race gas afterwards, I will do another oil change and go with a much thicker synthetic.
I did just about the same as everybody else uploaded a base map turned the car on let it idea till it got to temp and turned it off changed the oil and rechecked everything turned it back on and pull it on the trailer and towed it up 2 hours to inlinepro and let them do what they do best.
I took my b16 apart over the winter and just did all new seals, crower valve springs and retainers and some head studs. Does it need to be broken in still?
I always put a fair amount of miliage on mine before It hit the dyno. Typically just didnt boost it for a couple days, then put the wideband in and did some street tuning.
Made sure everything was in perfect working order before going on the dyno..
Made sure everything was in perfect working order before going on the dyno..
What are you guys doing when your new build includes a new clutch, going to start mine soon and was thinking about how I was going to break in the clutch before I hit the dyno.
I didn't do any break in on my engine. It had rods and pistons put in it. Started her up, checked for leaks, changed the oil then took it to the dyno. 4 years later so far so good.
Im surprised no one has said drive it 2500miles for break in then boost it LOLOL
Just get it hot, check for leaks drive it on the street/highway varrying rpms and load both on and off the gas.
the key to break in is not to be rich a/r ratios to allow proper seating of the rings. the rings dont take to long to seat and after that nothign else has a break in period, its either going to hold together or its not period.
Just get it hot, check for leaks drive it on the street/highway varrying rpms and load both on and off the gas.
the key to break in is not to be rich a/r ratios to allow proper seating of the rings. the rings dont take to long to seat and after that nothign else has a break in period, its either going to hold together or its not period.
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