I had a buddy show me a video of a nice crx with a 2.1l LS/vtec. What block and head would you use to get that? Im looking to go N/A in my 91 hatch. Plus would my ys1 trans make a good road race trans with that motor setup?

 

How much money do you have? Be realistic.

 

ys1 out of the DA huh? if so its garbage for all motor setups

 

Depends, there was an LS YS1 and there was a GSR YS1

 

I'm just wondering what block and head they use to make it. I know there is the normal ls/vtec, ls block and a b16 head. Someone told me the used a b20 block and gsr head, but i don't see 2.1l My trans is a gsr ys1. I had a 92 gsr db2. Its life was cut short by a drunk driver.

 

An ls/vtec is a b-series non vtec bottom end with a vtec top end end. You can use a b18a/b18b/b20b/b20z bottom end and any sir(b16a), gsr(b18c1), or type r(b18c5) head. They are basically all the same concept, some people call the 2 liter setup b20/vtec.

The reason you don't see 2.1 with any of these is because you simply can't with just the oem parts. That crx you saw probably did have a stroker kit. The b18/b20 non vtec blocks are the same when it comes to putting a stroker kit bigger than 2.0 liters, if your bore is going to be bigger than 85mm you should look at getting the block sleeved.

That gsr ys1 you have is pretty much the best cable transmission, it has the sir gearing and 4.4 final drive, you can swap out the internals for the ones from the sir/itr hydro transmissions.

 

Thank you J_Marc for the needed info. That makes more scents that it has a stroker kit in it. Yea i can't say enough about the trans i have. This thing just puts you right in the power band of a b16, but didn't know if it would go well with an ls/vtec setup.

 

here is my previous 2.1l block (86.5x89)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EJp7T9DiSdY

 

How safe/reliable is a 86.5mm bore?

 

Headgasket (that is the weak point I think) failed once before rod bearings gave up after 9000kms (6K miles), the bearing failure was probably absolutely my fault.

 

It would go well with any b series setup.

It would be safe with a sleeved block, but I have never heard of anyone running 86.5 with stock sleeves, they'd be pretty thin at that point if there's any thing left at all. I couldn't see it being too reliable.

 

Would a o ring seal head gasket help with that issue? I hate rod bearings. I just lost b16b to rod bearings failing. I probably wouldn't have lost the engine if i had been driving it.

 

2.1 is 84mm bore with a 95mm crankshaft, if you are road racing just stick with 84mm bore and the stock 89mm crank, it will last longer.

86.5mm bore on a b is a bad idea, unless you arent planning on driving it hard.

 

THAT would depend on the builder, my friend. 95mm will load the side walls, yes...and put more load on the mains. But a really good builder can build one to last.

And they make torque QUICKLY

 

Really? Sounds like some good solid, reliable info here.

 

Yeah that what i want. I wanna get as much torque down low without have to go boosted. So what would you guys sudjust for me to run if a 2.1l is too risky. I need something that i can take to the track and race, but still be reliable enough to drive there and back. Key is reliability with as much low torque as possible.

 

you want more low end tq and a 2.1? then you want to run a 95mm stroke and an 84mm bore. 2 engine of same displacement, longer stroke always makes more tq than the big bore/less stroke. sure you wont want to rev it as high, but you probably wont have to, plus rpm kills engines.

you also want reliable? fact is a 86.5mm bore will likely blow a head gasket before a 95mm stroke will cause any sort of other damage. again i think the 84mm bore x 95mm stroke is the way to go.

and if you decide to run stock sleeves in a b20 at 84mm x 89, 9500rpm will eventually cause a failure. even with a perfect tune, its going to break.

 

This is false. I have stated this here before, but it bears repeating. 2 engines of identical displacement, only differing in bore/stroke, will produce the same amount of TQ, it will just be in different places in the RPM range.

As a general rule: Displacement/valve area pretty much dictates max TQ, stroke dictates where peak TQ will occur.

 

low end tq, you left that out right before the quote. thats what he is looking for.

 

I know he is looking for low end TQ, and that the longer stroke setup would reach peak TQ sooner, BUT you stated longer stroke ALWAYS makes more TQ, which is mis-leading and untrue.

 

See this is where someone that is incorrect in the info theyre typing out here, gets corrected, and now Im the *******? Ill say it again, and ill put the important part IN CAPS so maybe itll hit you this time.

You were correct in that the bigger stroke reaches peak TQ sooner, but were INCORRECT IN THAT 2 ENGINES OF IDENTICAL DISPLACEMENT THAT THE ONE WITH THE LONGER STROKE WILL HAVE MORE TQ.

That statement is wrong, and misleading to someone who might be here to learn and not know any better. I pointed it out, without insulting you, and you get all pissy and claim Im not trying to be helpful? Just because you were WRONG.

 

omg, chill dude, you ok? maybe you werent the ******* before... but wow

to the orig poster, good luck with your build.

 

Im fine. But I would be better if you didnt delete your post where you got all pissy and now you're telling me to chill? And yeah, I am an ******* to cowardly misinformation posters who backtrack and delete their posts when they realize theyre wrong. You just couldnt stand to be corrected, thats all.