Fawking fitting on brake line going to MC is stripped...WTF do i do now?
it's completely a perfectly round circle. How the crap can i get around this now? I can get it off a number of ways...
But how do i then put it back together? I don't have those brake things that bend the lines or anything like that...I'm stuck.
My car's in my backyard with a bad alternator and battery, bad MC...and i have no money to do anything.
Anybody got an ingenius ways to help me out?
But how do i then put it back together? I don't have those brake things that bend the lines or anything like that...I'm stuck.
My car's in my backyard with a bad alternator and battery, bad MC...and i have no money to do anything.
Anybody got an ingenius ways to help me out?
THe only way I see,is using some kind of heat from a torch then use a vise-grip.
Since it's already rounded.
But problem is,you will have to find a way to change that line or maybe you could put it back and torque it back w/ the vise-grip.
Since you don't have money,that pretty suc*!
Maybe someone could get one(that line) from a scrapyard.That should not be too pricey.
Since it's already rounded.
But problem is,you will have to find a way to change that line or maybe you could put it back and torque it back w/ the vise-grip.
Since you don't have money,that pretty suc*!
Maybe someone could get one(that line) from a scrapyard.That should not be too pricey.
Yes.
But sometimes,it burn the **** inside the threads and it is easier to loosen the bolt.
Most likely,because the line is made of steel and the master is like aluminum.So there is must be some kind of porosity between the thread.
I already have the same problem this spring when I changed my M/C.My friend was using an open wrench
Luckily,I saw him before it was too late.I did use the torch and it really help me out.
[Modified by Francois, 11:41 PM 8/13/2002]
But sometimes,it burn the **** inside the threads and it is easier to loosen the bolt.
Most likely,because the line is made of steel and the master is like aluminum.So there is must be some kind of porosity between the thread.
I already have the same problem this spring when I changed my M/C.My friend was using an open wrench
Luckily,I saw him before it was too late.I did use the torch and it really help me out.
[Modified by Francois, 11:41 PM 8/13/2002]
Yes.
But sometimes,it burn the **** inside the threads and it is easier to loosen the bolt.
Most likely,because the line is made of steel and the master is like aluminum.So there is must be some kind of porosity between the thread.
I already have the same problem this spring when I changed my M/C.My friend was using an open wrench
Luckily,I saw him before it was too late.I did use the torch and it really help me out.
[Modified by Francois, 11:41 PM 8/13/2002]
But sometimes,it burn the **** inside the threads and it is easier to loosen the bolt.
Most likely,because the line is made of steel and the master is like aluminum.So there is must be some kind of porosity between the thread.
I already have the same problem this spring when I changed my M/C.My friend was using an open wrench
Luckily,I saw him before it was too late.I did use the torch and it really help me out.
[Modified by Francois, 11:41 PM 8/13/2002]
I used an open 10mm end on one line, worked fine..but when I looked at the other line it was stripped round GRRRRR...anyway, just for future reference what is to be used?
There is a wrench specially made for those brake line.
It is like the closed one but have an opening to get thrue the line.
So compare to only 2 point of contact,you have 5 point of contact.
Any tool shop should have an brake line wrench for sale.Sorry for the name.Just ask the salesmen.He will help you out.
[Modified by Francois, 12:09 AM 8/14/2002]
It is like the closed one but have an opening to get thrue the line.
So compare to only 2 point of contact,you have 5 point of contact.
Any tool shop should have an brake line wrench for sale.Sorry for the name.Just ask the salesmen.He will help you out.
[Modified by Francois, 12:09 AM 8/14/2002]
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Yup. I bought some Craftman ones. I think they just said Professional on them. But they're just like the ones you're talking about. They work great especially on brake lines.
The right tool for the right job. Get the tube wrench. Once you get it out you will need to cut the line and put a new fitting on. You can borrow a flaring tool from a parts store the loans tools. I know Autozone rents tool and depending on where you are there probably is a store.
Rex_boy is correct. That's the way to do it yourself. Flaring is pretty easy but I would recommend you to buy some copper tubing from a hardware store and practice it a couple of times.
yep. flarenut wrench. comes in handy for quite a few jobs, i got a set with my tools (Craftsman), thought I'd never use them until i started my brake work.
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