high idle
hello everone i have a 93 prelude(H22A1) and its idling around 2k rpms i tried adjusting the set screw and cable tension but nothing happens. The guy that sold me the car told me that the dealership said that it needed a vtec solenoid and an idle air control valve. the car will hit vtec everytime i can get it to 5k but sometimes berween 3k and 4k the car will act as if it has no power and the intake will get really loud then if i can get it out of that stage it will run fine and hit vtec everytime i get it to 5k. I have checked oil level and cleaned the vtec solenoid. there is one small vacum hose thats disconnected and i dont know where it goes and the map sensor was unplugged when i got it and plugging it back in did nothing. I dont know what to do if anyone could help me i would really appreciate THANKS
yea its a 5 speed im not sure if the motor came in the car or not its a 93 si but the side of the head is taged with japenese righting... if i plug the vac line in it runs worse and im having a hard time believeing that the vtec solenoid is bad i cleaned it and it works every time.. as far as my problem starts at 3 grand(rpm) and goes from there. if i run the car hard there are no problems until i get to 60mph then its almost like a fuel cut you push the gas it revs a little but goes no faster.. im starting to think its just the air idle control vaulve tricking the computer however it does idle at 2thousand rpm and thats also what the kid told me was bad im trying my best to explain lol but the problems i have are complicated.
ill take it off and clean it and see where that puts me im starting to get angry and just put a single cam motor in thr damb thing ill try that and post back if that works for me i have a 2002 mustang gt with alot of bolt ons and its twice beter on gas i filled the lude up with gas and drove like 50 miles and its empty when you drive it all you smell is fuel there are no leaks at all would/could this be from the aicv?
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Yes it does but this problem should have nothing to do with it. Check your FITV. Here's how. Warm your car up all the way, take off the intake piping so you can see inside the throttle body then plug the bottom left hole with a finger and if that returns the idle to normal then it is the FITV. Good luck
th vacum line that is disconnected
ne end is connected to a device on right side of the motor just in front of the intake manifold, this device has the word "UP" on it, the other end just hangs there
ne end is connected to a device on right side of the motor just in front of the intake manifold, this device has the word "UP" on it, the other end just hangs there
Common problem - be aware that the idle speed should not be adjusted by the throttle cable. You should have a bit of slack in the cable and then there is an idle speed screw on the passenger side of the metal air inlet. It is an inset screw just a few inches from the throttle body. When the car is warm, you unplug the wire from the throttle air vavle just below and toward the driver side from the throttle cable end. Adjust the idle screw for 500-600 RPM. Plug the air valve back in.
If your idle speed fluctuates (VERY common on older cars), there is a Cold air Idle control on the bottom of the air inlet, below the idle screw. Inside is a special wax valve. The problem is usually a loose screw that lets the wax valve move around. The screw should be snug. The wax is very temperature sensitive and it expands when the engine gets warm and covers the little bleed air holes to reduce the idle speed. Simple, but effective.
If your idle speed fluctuates (VERY common on older cars), there is a Cold air Idle control on the bottom of the air inlet, below the idle screw. Inside is a special wax valve. The problem is usually a loose screw that lets the wax valve move around. The screw should be snug. The wax is very temperature sensitive and it expands when the engine gets warm and covers the little bleed air holes to reduce the idle speed. Simple, but effective.
Common problem - be aware that the idle speed should not be adjusted by the throttle cable. You should have a bit of slack in the cable and then there is an idle speed screw on the passenger side of the metal air inlet. It is an inset screw just a few inches from the throttle body. When the car is warm, you unplug the wire from the throttle air vavle just below and toward the driver side from the throttle cable end. Adjust the idle screw for 500-600 RPM. Plug the air valve back in.
If your idle speed fluctuates (VERY common on older cars), there is a Cold air Idle control on the bottom of the air inlet, below the idle screw. Inside is a special wax valve. The problem is usually a loose screw that lets the wax valve move around. The screw should be snug. The wax is very temperature sensitive and it expands when the engine gets warm and covers the little bleed air holes to reduce the idle speed. Simple, but effective.
If your idle speed fluctuates (VERY common on older cars), there is a Cold air Idle control on the bottom of the air inlet, below the idle screw. Inside is a special wax valve. The problem is usually a loose screw that lets the wax valve move around. The screw should be snug. The wax is very temperature sensitive and it expands when the engine gets warm and covers the little bleed air holes to reduce the idle speed. Simple, but effective.
i never took the car to the mechanic i found the ecu code line and i got code 7 and 23 throttle angle.. and knock senser.. the knock senser is brand new and im guessing that the throttle angle would be tps throttle position senser. i know i can get the senser off and they go for only 30 bucks online would / could this be the problem for what i have described the car to be running like? thanks for your help
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