ok, how many pep have had this issue? on my way to work the battery light came on and the car started to feel a little "tight" in steering, i knew what happened. got it to work and on a rack, found the crank bolt backed out and ****ed everything up. no threads are left in the crank at all. im lucky enough to work in the same building as the NHRA pro mod class, american guard team. the engine tech suggested to drill and tap the crank and time sert stud. mind you this info is comming from someone that makes 3k+ bhp at the rear wheels. i know my other opition is a new crank. what do you all think?

 

I would try to easier option first; drill, tap, and insert. I wonder how they got stripped in the first place; air gun to tighten the crank bolt?

 

Yeah carnot, probably. Thats what happend to my first motor. People go a little to wild with impacts. This should be a lesson to all you impact junkies who use it for everything.

Drill and tap is your only alternative to rebuild and replacing crank.
Drill and tapping will work it just has to be very precise or your going to have a wobble which is undesired aswell. Not sure how much vibration the "harmonic balancer" will absorb.

Good luck and sorry about your missfortune.

 

nope, a breaker bar on the crank tool and a tq wrench.

 

There are no threads left intact on the crank? If the bolt backed out, it seems that most of the threads should be fine, unless it was installed with so much torque that it sheared the threads off the crank. Perhaps the vibration caused by the crank pulley being loose (not a press fit) caused the bolt to damage the threads?

Have you tried chasing and cleaning up the threads to see if anything is left?

Easiest would be to attempt to drill and use an insert with the engine in the car. That could get a little tricky. Obviously a new crank will require the engine to be torn down, resizing of the main bearings, etc.

 

yeah, about that.... it already had one in there.... i had replaced it when i had to rebuild the motor, and was worried about it. just didnt have the cash to put a new crank in it at that time.

 

ok, i've got it taped and ready to go back together. it looks sweet!!!!! well, now that i have the tools to do this, i should have extra left over, ie for a kit if anyone else has this issue. im out about $85, all and all not to bad. ill try to throw a after pic up tonight.

 

ok, i had a lot of stuff going on at the house last night so i couldnt get any pics up. but the ludes back on the road and feels great under boost. i dont have any vibrations, i think i might of had a bad ballancer to start with. there are a few that are now gone that have been there for some time.

 

Ballancer if it had chips or anything might be bad and caused vibrations. Usually the original crank pulleys are pretty well balanced though. I would think any vibration before was an indication that the threads have stripped and that the pulley wasn't secured to the crank well.

Whats your insert look like that you used anyway? Or part number/link.

 

it was a time sert, i got it from a place called engine-tech. im not sure if they are still open. i bought the first kit a few years back when my little brother had the car. i want to say it was a 16.8 mm time sert kit. i have, well had the smaller 14mm crank bolt to start with. i do know a company named worth is who made it, and i talked to one of their reps a few weeks ago. ill see if i cant find any more info about it.