DIY ITB's : Manifold Connection Questions
I am putting diy itb's on my 2000 Civic Si


I am trying to make provisions for all the connections before I actually attempt the install.
I am wondering what connections the stock Civic Si has on the stock manifold and I am getting different answers.
I am planning on running mine the following way, please chime in on what sensors I am forgetting or if you would reccomend doing it a different way.
I have a line coming off all 4 runners t'd into one line that runs to the MAP sensor.
I have a custom fitting that connects the factory TPS to the main shaft of the ITB's.
I have a nipple and hose coming off of one of the runners for the Brake Booster.
I have a nipple and hose coming off a runner for the stock FPR. May go after market.
I have a nipple and hose coming off a runner for the IAT sensor.
I am using a Edlebrock intake manifold flange, and will be using stock fuel rail with DSM 450cc injectors. I will be using the coolant passage off of the aftermarket manifold.
Any help or insight would be appreciated.
Am I forgetting anything?? Any help planning would be great.


I am trying to make provisions for all the connections before I actually attempt the install.
I am wondering what connections the stock Civic Si has on the stock manifold and I am getting different answers.
I am planning on running mine the following way, please chime in on what sensors I am forgetting or if you would reccomend doing it a different way.
I have a line coming off all 4 runners t'd into one line that runs to the MAP sensor.
I have a custom fitting that connects the factory TPS to the main shaft of the ITB's.
I have a nipple and hose coming off of one of the runners for the Brake Booster.
I have a nipple and hose coming off a runner for the stock FPR. May go after market.
I have a nipple and hose coming off a runner for the IAT sensor.
I am using a Edlebrock intake manifold flange, and will be using stock fuel rail with DSM 450cc injectors. I will be using the coolant passage off of the aftermarket manifold.
Any help or insight would be appreciated.
Am I forgetting anything?? Any help planning would be great.
IAT sensor doesn't need to have a vacuum feed. It would be better to remotely mount it as close to the opening to the velocity stack (intake stream of air) if you want correct intake air temp readings.
A vacuum manifold (search Golden Eagle Vacuum Manifold) might allow you to get rid of some of your nipples and hoses. Have all the vacuum hoses coming from the runners T into a vacuum manifold and feed all of your vacuum actuated sensors off of that. that way you can mount them wherever you want.
Good luck with the project
A vacuum manifold (search Golden Eagle Vacuum Manifold) might allow you to get rid of some of your nipples and hoses. Have all the vacuum hoses coming from the runners T into a vacuum manifold and feed all of your vacuum actuated sensors off of that. that way you can mount them wherever you want.
Good luck with the project
I am putting diy itb's on my 2000 Civic Si
I have a line coming off all 4 runners t'd into one line that runs to the MAP sensor. No
I have a custom fitting that connects the factory TPS to the main shaft of the ITB's. Yes
I have a nipple and hose coming off of one of the runners for the Brake Booster. No
I have a nipple and hose coming off a runner for the stock FPR. No May go after market.
I have a nipple and hose coming off a runner for the IAT sensor.
I have a line coming off all 4 runners t'd into one line that runs to the MAP sensor. No
I have a custom fitting that connects the factory TPS to the main shaft of the ITB's. Yes
I have a nipple and hose coming off of one of the runners for the Brake Booster. No
I have a nipple and hose coming off a runner for the stock FPR. No May go after market.
I have a nipple and hose coming off a runner for the IAT sensor.
You should run 4 separate lines to a single vacuum source directly not T the lines up. Also, you should run the brake booster and fuel pressure regulator off the single vaccuum source not off a single runner.
Last edited by mar778c; Mar 18, 2009 at 09:58 AM.
If you want a clean manifold pressure signal, you really need a vacuum manifold as others have said.
The GE one is a little small, but has all the fittings and is inexpensive.
The GE one is a little small, but has all the fittings and is inexpensive.
So it seems as though the vacuum manifold is needed.
Would it make sense to do the following?
IAT sensor (just bolted to the back side right infront of a velocity stack? O=runner I=Vacuum Line BB=Brake Booster FPR=Fuel Pressure Regulator
OOOO
I I I I
(Vacuum Block)
I I
BB FPR
Would it make sense to do the following?
IAT sensor (just bolted to the back side right infront of a velocity stack? O=runner I=Vacuum Line BB=Brake Booster FPR=Fuel Pressure Regulator
OOOO
I I I I
(Vacuum Block)
I I
BB FPR
So looking at the Vacuum Block it only appears as if its a block of billet, that has a large hole drilled through the center, then lots of holes drilled into the side, that run through into the main hole. Is there more that meets the eye? If there isn't I will probably just make my own...
So it seems as though the vacuum manifold is needed.
Would it make sense to do the following?
IAT sensor (just bolted to the back side right infront of a velocity stack? O=runner I=Vacuum Line BB=Brake Booster FPR=Fuel Pressure Regulator
OOOO
I I I I
(Vacuum Block)
I I
BB FPR
Would it make sense to do the following?
IAT sensor (just bolted to the back side right infront of a velocity stack? O=runner I=Vacuum Line BB=Brake Booster FPR=Fuel Pressure Regulator
OOOO
I I I I
(Vacuum Block)
I I
BB FPR
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Here is what my vacuum log looks like. I used a larger diameter hose fittings. If I find that they are too large I am goign to adjust the ID of the runner nipples buy placing .035" - .025" welding tips in them to slow the vacuum loss.

I used the stock vacuum tree from my manifold and sealed it to the top of my vacuum manifold. it seals and has been tested to hold up to 40psi. That is much more than it will ever see. I Also drilled and tapped holes for the MAP sensor on the plate. Those are the three holes you can see to the right of the vacuum tree.

I used the stock vacuum tree from my manifold and sealed it to the top of my vacuum manifold. it seals and has been tested to hold up to 40psi. That is much more than it will ever see. I Also drilled and tapped holes for the MAP sensor on the plate. Those are the three holes you can see to the right of the vacuum tree.
Last edited by GhostAccord; Mar 18, 2009 at 09:43 AM.
...I am using smaler vacuum manifold (50-60ccm) for map and fuel pressure regulator (4 vacuum lines from itbs) and oather 4 vacuums together for brakes and cold start regulator...
It works nice!
It works nice!
Some of what I did today..
Decking the flange..

without couplers.. runners will be tig'd tomorrow..

With couplers..

Will be tig'd tomorrow, then I'll be searching the local junkyards for a tps so I can make my tps mount.
Decking the flange..

without couplers.. runners will be tig'd tomorrow..

With couplers..

Will be tig'd tomorrow, then I'll be searching the local junkyards for a tps so I can make my tps mount.
Pics of the work today..
Tig'd

Just the runners (looks weird in the pic, I'm not sure why)

With the couplers
http://photos-b.ak.fbcdn.net/photos-...57_7915400.jpg
With the couplers and clamps

Now I just need to find a 92-00 throttle body..
Tig'd

Just the runners (looks weird in the pic, I'm not sure why)

With the couplers
http://photos-b.ak.fbcdn.net/photos-...57_7915400.jpg
With the couplers and clamps

Now I just need to find a 92-00 throttle body..
I see that you mentioned having a custom bracket made for an OEM TPS. Did you know that you can use the stock ITB TPS if you have it. Most tuning software has voltage scales that can be used to dial in non Honda TPS voltages.
I did not get one with the itb's and I am running s100, which does not have a provision for that. Thus the oem will be used, calibrated as close as it can to stock, then tuned.
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