This is my LS VTEC. Built and installed 6 weeks ago. Been running great. Makes a strange tapping sound now. It's not a rod bearing or anything like that.

The video makes it sound louder than it really is. It's a high pitched tapping coming from the head area.

At first I thought it was a failing injector. But now I'm wondering if it's the LMA's or my valve adjustment. Anyone?

11.5:1 CR
B16 Head - Bone stock (PR3-2)
82mm Bore
Re sized rods + new bearings.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f_a5WPq6-s0

 

your valve clearance needs to be adjusted . that's your valves making that noise adjust them to the b16 specs then it should be good .

 

could it be the LMA's?

 

I forgot to mention that it gets worse as it warms up. Does this mean anything or confirm that it's the valves?

Can I adjust the valves myself? Is there a proffered method by anyone? Any tips/tricks for me?

 

yes you can adjust the valves your self and yes it's for sure the valves the loudest part is at worm ups so that right there tells me it's the valves for sure .

i would explain it myself but thats allot of typing lol so here is a really good article that will help you allot

http://www.denlorstools.com/home/dt1...honda_car.html

good luck bro .

 

yeah, its the valve clearance. it gets worse when it warms up because the clearances go up when the motor is warm. it should take a good hour if you want them perfect.

get some feeler gauges and put the valves to honda's spec. you should be good. if you dont already have a manual, buy one and follow the instructions. i usually adjust them so it is almost impossible to get the proper feeler gauge between the cams and the rockers.

 

No I meant that it gets worse as the engine warms up. When it's cold it sounds great. So the chances of this being the LMA's is... None? If it's the LMA's I'd rather replace them while I have the head apart to adjust the valves.

 

you dont need to have the head apart to adjust the valves. all you need to do is take the valve cover off. do you even have a manual?

the only tools that are required are a flat head screwdriver, a 10 mm wrench or socket, and feeler gauges. those items and patience.

 

OK the valve lash has been adjusted and is now within spec. I did it cold, recommended to be below 100 F by Honda. The noise is still present, although not as pronounced, still ticking. While the VC was off I pressed on all the LMA's and over half of them were sticking and not returning to their upward position. Do I need new LMA's? I've heard the Prelude ones are less expensive, and can be used in a b-series. Or maybe there was some other kind of benefit to running Prelude LMA's. In either case I think I need new ones. Any thoughts?

 

Bump

 

Bump!

 

OK now if you adjusted the Valve lash properly and it still there then replace lost motion assemblies (LMA'S) and that should be the problem . You video clip was very good in helping you with your problem good luck bro .

 

My buddy is using prelude LMA'S and shims on his GSR you might want to look into that set up bro .

 

Do you know the advantage of Prelude LMA's? Is there a reason I would go this route over the stock B16 LMA setup? I'm guessing it's cheaper...

 

yes you need new LMAs, if your using stock cams there is no need to get prelude LMAs just get B16/Type-r/GS-R LMAs and call it a day

 

Well, there is certainly a mixture of valve noise and "the issue". I too, had the same issue and it was a bad LMA. When i removed it, it was very sticky to operate and bottomed out quickly. That should definitely resolve the issue.

Update for searchers when you get it solved.

 

5 out of the 8 stick. I thought I would replace all of them, I might as well. Called Acura today, priced me $45.00 each CDN. Isn't that awfully high? Do I have any other options? Is it worth buying these used? Or should I avoid all the headaches and just cough up the dough. It's a lot of money to solve a ticking sound.

 

sounds like its done dude ! give it to me ! u have no use for that anylonger !

 

yeah someone needs to adjust those valves bad

 

OK I adjusted the valve lash. Some were out but only a little bit. They're all within spec, but still making just as much noise, although slightly toned down.

So at this point, bad LMA's can be confirmed?

 

Bump!

 

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