I have a 92 vx hatch. with 99 gsr motor. Im using the 99 gsr engine harness, and using the 92 stock interior wiring. And im using a obd-1 gsr ecu. What advice can you guys give me? I was thinking about cutting the plugs right before they go into the ecu, and getting a set of cut plugs from a obd-1 gsr and then butt all the wires together at the ecu. Would they all be the same color? would this be a good idea? let me know. And i hate wiring, i would pay anyone to do this for me, so don't give me advice thats hard for me to do. I can sodor the same wire colors together, but running wiring for the stuff im missing isn't easy for me.
oh yeah, and I sold my stock engine wiring harness with my old motor. So using my stock engine wiring is out of the picture.

 

DO NOT cut your ECU plugs.

All of the wires are there for what you need (i.e. VTEC solenoid, VTEC PS, IAB, and even the knock sensor). I know some of you won't believe me about the knock sensor wire being present at D3 on a '92 VX, but it is true.

All you need to do is:

-Move A20 to A17
-Identify the org/blu wire at D3 and use a multimeter and do a continuity test to determine which org/blu wire on the passenger side shock tower body harness is the same wire as the one at D3. It is on the extra plug that does not have a corresponding plug on the GS-R engine harness.

Also, since you are using an OBD2 GS-R engine harness you will need to cut the black wire at the IAB plug and give it a 12v switched source. This is due to the fact that the OBD2 ECU uses a positive trigger to activate the IAB and the OBD1 ECU uses a negative trigger to activate the IAB.

Good luck and DO NOT cut your ECU plugs.

-kenji

/edit - spelling errors/


[Modified by kenji, 5:58 PM 8/12/2002]

 

ok, thanx a lot. Ill get abck to you and let you know whats up. And I also e-mailed you, but this post helped me alot.

 

Also, since you are using an OBD2 GS-R engine harness you will need to cut the black wire at the IAB plug and give it a 12v switched source. This is due to the fact that the OBD2 ECU uses a positive trigger to activate the IAB and the OBD1 ECU uses a negative trigger to activate the IAB.

Ok I have OBD 1 B18c1, so are you telling me that the yll/black wire (from the extra 2 wires plug-red,yll/blk) need to connect to a negative source (ground)? I connected it to a power source. Does this affect the VTEC since I'm having problem with my VTEC (I think it doesn't come on

 

quote:
Also, since you are using an OBD2 GS-R engine harness you will need to cut the black wire at the IAB plug and give it a 12v switched source. This is due to the fact that the OBD2 ECU uses a positive trigger to activate the IAB and the OBD1 ECU uses a negative trigger to activate the IAB.
So i cut the clack wire and ground it? since the obd-1 ecu uses a negative trigger to activate the IAB?

 

No no no.

There are two wires at the IAB plug on your OBD2 GS-R engine harness. One is black and one is red/blu. Cut the black wire and give it a 12V switched source. Simply put, you are giving the black wire on the IAB plug a 12V switched source. Do not tap into the part of the black wire that runs back into the engine harness. Tap the 12V switched source into the part of the black wire that goes to the IAB plug.

You get my drift?

The 12V switched source can come from almost any yel/blk wire in the engine harness (e.g. injectors, IACV EVAP purge solenoid, etc.)

If you have any questions just ask. Don't go cutting wires and giving them voltage unless you know what you are doing.

Good luck and if you need help...PLEASE ask.

-kenji

 

thanks for the help with the iab wiring for obd2, i needed that info. as for the knock is it also present on a 92 cx? canadian if that matters.

 

hey. do you think you could show me the diagram of the plugs, like which one if a20, and a17, and all that. I know its probably floating around on here somewhere, but I can't find it.
And 1 more question. my O2 sensor has to be wired different too. I traced the wire from O2 to the strut tower, but then it ends there. my stock plug doesn't have a wire going out of that plug. And I traced the knock sensor wire but that also ends at the strut tower, but I can run a wire from ecu to that knock sensor wire. (reb/blue) But The O2 is a white with bearly blue strip, and I would like to know where to wire that up to. thanx.


[Modified by 92hatchy, 8:02 PM 8/13/2002]

 

ok, I gave the IAB a 12 v switched source. and switched A20 to A17. And hooked up knock sensor, but he CEL is still on. what now?

 

What CEL is it? I can not help you if you are not specific.

-kenji

 

its code 5. map sensor. But i changed the map sensor and its still throwing the code. hoses messed up? and diagrams to help me with hoses?
And does the vtec kick in at 4500 rpms?? I can hear it, but isn't that early for vtec on a stock gsr? I was wondering if that was secondarys or not. Let me know.

 

i had that same problem once, i switched the tps and map plugs, worked then lol

 

no. I know the map sensor plug is right. I followed the map sensor wire from the right ecu pin. And id led me right to the map sensor.
Oh yeah. and when I was driving it, it would still be running, but when I would try to give it gas, it would just do nothing. like the key is turned off. but then out of know where it would work again. very weird. I don't know. Ill check it out tomorrow and see. maybe something came undone.