H22A Block slightly warped!
Hey my h22a's block is a little warped around cylinder 1
The limit I think is .10 mm (.004 in) I had .005 in some spots toward the intake side of cyl 1.
I've been told I can "lap the block" by placing it on a flat peice of glass with sandpaper on it with mineral spirits to help lubricate it as I slide the block back and forth on the fine sandpaper.
Or have a machine shop cut if flat again
I believe there was some coolant in the cylinder when I first took off the head
How much material can I safely take off the block? The head was perfectly straight.
waa
The limit I think is .10 mm (.004 in) I had .005 in some spots toward the intake side of cyl 1.
I've been told I can "lap the block" by placing it on a flat peice of glass with sandpaper on it with mineral spirits to help lubricate it as I slide the block back and forth on the fine sandpaper.
Or have a machine shop cut if flat again
I believe there was some coolant in the cylinder when I first took off the head
How much material can I safely take off the block? The head was perfectly straight.
waa
Hmmm - my opinion should barely be considered as I don't have a shop and have never tried.... but,
I think a piece of glass might even flex by that much unless it were 1/4 inch or more thick. Glass is brittle, but it does have some flex in it. Don't believe me, watch the rear window at a stereo contest.
That said - since you are barely out of spec, I expect a shop could fix the problem. I would be a bit skeptical of the glass and sandpaper thing just because it is hard to get a piece of sandpaper to lay flat while you are working with it. I have re-lapped small aircraft parts in this manner, but the block was 1 inch thick and the block and paper were considerably larger than the target object. This way you are not using any part of the paper near the edge. Finally, the paper was VERY find emery cloth... like 3000 grit. The parts I was working on were hardened steel and needed a mirror finish. You can probably use courser paper, but I would look for the finest stuff you can find if you intend to do this yourself.
I think a piece of glass might even flex by that much unless it were 1/4 inch or more thick. Glass is brittle, but it does have some flex in it. Don't believe me, watch the rear window at a stereo contest.
That said - since you are barely out of spec, I expect a shop could fix the problem. I would be a bit skeptical of the glass and sandpaper thing just because it is hard to get a piece of sandpaper to lay flat while you are working with it. I have re-lapped small aircraft parts in this manner, but the block was 1 inch thick and the block and paper were considerably larger than the target object. This way you are not using any part of the paper near the edge. Finally, the paper was VERY find emery cloth... like 3000 grit. The parts I was working on were hardened steel and needed a mirror finish. You can probably use courser paper, but I would look for the finest stuff you can find if you intend to do this yourself.
Last edited by duanes; Mar 14, 2009 at 03:48 PM.
what is the issue here exactly ? Deck it, since it slightly out they may not have to take much off. Make sure you know how much they took off, they may even stamp that amount onto the block for future reference. Either way its reassurance that it will seal correctly.
As for the coolant, was your level low ? What did the oil look like ? What color was your exhaust ? Are you sure you didn't somehow spill some in there and didn't realize it until afterward ? I mean technically, if head is in spec and the block is also in spec, with a new headgasket, minus a cracked head or block it shouldnt leak coolant into the combustion chamber.
As for the coolant, was your level low ? What did the oil look like ? What color was your exhaust ? Are you sure you didn't somehow spill some in there and didn't realize it until afterward ? I mean technically, if head is in spec and the block is also in spec, with a new headgasket, minus a cracked head or block it shouldnt leak coolant into the combustion chamber.
I double checked the block it seems to be .003 to .004 inches beyond spec 
I was able to get .007 in feeler in a couple spots
Now I'm starting to wonder if im in danger of piston to valve clearance? Doubtful since I'm running stock h22a compression (10.6?)
But can anyone supply how much I'm allowed to take off? This is a 60-70 k motor I dont think the head's been off before. The head is flat by the way.
The Factory Service Manual says it only has a service limit of .10 mm (my blocks a honda reject!) whereas they have no problem resurfacing the head (mabey labor costs are different?)

I was able to get .007 in feeler in a couple spots
Now I'm starting to wonder if im in danger of piston to valve clearance? Doubtful since I'm running stock h22a compression (10.6?)
But can anyone supply how much I'm allowed to take off? This is a 60-70 k motor I dont think the head's been off before. The head is flat by the way.
The Factory Service Manual says it only has a service limit of .10 mm (my blocks a honda reject!) whereas they have no problem resurfacing the head (mabey labor costs are different?)
Are you using a precisions straight edge to measure the flatness? they will probably just take off enough to make the surface flat again and tell you how much that is after it is done. there are two **** like protrusions on the deck you aren't supposed to go past those when decking.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
11seclude
Forced Induction
31
Oct 30, 2005 10:05 AM




