Looking to get some 2x 12w3v4 subs, but not sure how to distinguish or pick between a good amp and a bad one, or if I should get one amps or two amps(nothing too pricey:$200~)

Also I heard that these bang hard on bass, my rear speakers are broken, front are stock, which kind of speakers do i need to buy around the whole car, looking to replace everything, nothing too pricey though.

If you can just answer all the questions that'll be better than having 1 post answering one of the things when can answer all of them as well... Advice and suggestions pls.. thanks!!

 

Need more info...
Start with MM&Y of car.

Also need to know which 12W3v4, 2, 4 or 8 ohm?

If there is no big change in the v4 over the v3 then you need to look for a mono block sub amp that makes at least 600W RMS, recommended RMS wattage is 300W per sub.

As for speakers, concentrate on front speakers, you really do not need rear speakers. 94

 

duno what MM&Y is, but i drive a honda civic 2000 sedan EX. and i'm buying 2x JL 12w3v4 subwoofer in a box. duno what ohms, just bought i like that, i just need to know what i need to buy(amps, speakers) to have some decent quality.

 

I heard that i should get component speakers for the front/rear for better sounding, plus i have no rear speakers at all, their blown atm, so i need to buy new speakers anyway

 

You will need to know what the final load, [impedance/ohms] is on the sub box, how the subs are wired in the box, what the ohms is at the speaker terminal will determin what amp to get for the subs.

Most amps RMS output is determined by the load they are connected to, EG; an amp that is rated at 1x300W RMS into a 4 ohm load will be 1x600W RMS into a 2 ohm load, so if the subs you get are 12W3v4-4, [SVC 4 ohm subs] and they are wired in parallel the final load is 2 ohms, so the 1x300W RMS into 4 ohms amp would work as it would make 600W into 2 ohms.

It is very important that you get the proper "match" of an amp for the subs.

As for the rest of the speakers they will depend on how much power, [wattage] you have to drive them.

Component speakers or point source speakers are definitely the way to go to get good SQ however, they generally need more power, [wattage] then a coax, speaker.

As mentioned you do not need rear speakers for good SQ, and because you have a sedan it is best to not have rear speakers, use the rear speaker holes to get the bass "into" the pass. compartment, if you install rear speakers they should be mid-range/mid-bass drivers, NO TWEETERS, and you will have to isolate the backs from the subs or they will just become passive radiators for the subs.

So the question is, what is the make and model of your HU, and do you have an amp to drive the speakers? 94

BTW, MM&Y = make model and year of car.

 

Not sure what HU is, but if you're asking about the subwoofer, i have no idea, all i know that its JL Audio 2x 12w3v4 in a box.
I drive a civic 2000 sedan EX mentioned above.
i'm totally new to car audio system, but it all seems so hard with the ohms and wattage and such.
For the front, i know for sure to purchase component speakers, but not sure which ones.
Also my car doesn't come with stock tweeters, so if i buy component speakers do i have to do it custom? or can it be in the side panel where i replace the stock speakers?

I kinda want this simple and easy, like an answer to what amp, speakers, and deck to get...
Forgive me for the ignorance on that.
Also You said that it's better if i dont use rear speakers? but if i get the mid range/mid bass, i have to isolate them from the subwoofer?? i dont get what you're trying to say.
Also to your question, i have no idea if i have an amp to drive speakers.

My car has a stock deck, stock front speakers, blown rear, and only thing I go is the JL subwoofers.

 

OIC, stock everything.

First, replacing the front speakers with component speakers is not going to make the system sound any better, probably worse, the weak link in your system is the stock HU, [head unit or stereo/radio] your still left with stock HU power, [wattage] which is very low.
You are going to have to replace the stock HU or stick with very basic 2way coax speakers and even then the SQ, [sound quality] will be poor or OK at best.

The main reason for not needing rear speakers is stereo is two channels, left and right, it's not surround sound, the other reasons are with rear speakers it makes it very hard to set up a proper "stage", [sound comming from in front of you, just like at a concert] and "imaging", [a kind of visual image of where the instruments are on the stage, EG; bass guitar is on the left side of stage, lead guitar is on the right, percussion is in the back center and lead vocal move back and forth across the stage].
Speakers behind you, especially high frequencies from tweeters will make the above pretty much impossible.

Because you have a pr of 12" subs that will be driven with 600W of power they will move a lot of air, that air will need to go someplace, that will be into the pass. compartment, and it will try and go through the rear speakers, turning them into passive radiators, meaning the rear speakers will make sound, [bass] even if they are not plugged in, as the cones will be driven by the air pressure off the 12" subs, so they have to be isolated, eventually put in speaker cabinets.

If you want a simple good sounding system, start by replacing the HU, you will be surprised a how good your stock front speakers sound, [assuming there is nothing wrong with them] when they have some power driving them.

You will improve SQ with better speakers in the front, [but only if you replace the stock HU] a set of Eclipse SP6510... http://www.eclipse-web.com/us/point/sp6910_6510.html and a 2x75W amp to drive them will sound pretty good, and will be relatively easy to install.

If you want to skip the amp because of budget, go with the Infinity REF6022SI... http://www.infinitysystems.com/car/p...=CA&Region=USA or the REF6022I... http://www.infinitysystems.com/car/p...=CA&Region=USA both almost direct fit with the adapter plates they come with, and they are 2 ohm so the HUs internal amp will drive them pretty good.

As for the amp for the subs, you will need to find out what the impedance is before I can recommend and amp.
Where are you getting the box from, do you have a link? 94

 

Dude... out of all the places i'm asking help for, it seems that you are helping and giving me the most information, much appreciated.
I'd like to correct myself, it's actually 2x 12w3v2-D4
http://mobile.jlaudio.com/pdfs/12W3v2_MAN.pdf
Any other information i have on them is that they are dual 4 ohms voice coil subwoofers.(which i guess is the impendance).
Anyway, they came in a very big box, two subwoofers in the box, and fits perfectly deep inside the trunk.

The real question is right now, how do i know what to look for when I buy an amplifier for my subwoofers.
Also, i will be kinda getting all of this at the same time, so new HU, and maybe an amplifier for my speakers?(i'll see when to buy new speakers when i need them).

Also, hearing from what youre saying, i dont think i'll be using my rear speakers, so do i need to remove them or do anything to them??

Another thing I'm concerned about is a vibrating trunk that i think i'll most likely have.
I mean i dont know much about car audio systems, but whatever i'm getting can't be cheap for it to sound like that right??(but it will im sure)
Is there anyway for my to reduce that vibrating trunk besides sound dedener(dynomat)
(If i get what you're trying to say, if i dont use my rear speakers it'll help correct?)

By the way, when you say that the stereo is two channels, should i be looking for only 2 channel amplifiers for speakers and subs?? or what?
To relist things that i will be purchasing to kind of guide you to guide me in the right direction in one i'm getting is:
New HU, and forsure the subwoofer amplifier... just need to know what/how to buy it. thanks!

and last question, how did you know what speaker to look for?

 

The subs do not change much, they are still 300W subs, you still need an amp that makes 1x600W RMS, [one channel/mono block sub amp] what changes is the number of possible final loads.
Ideally the final load will be 4 ohms, each subs VCs wired in series for an 8 ohm load and then the subs wired together in parallel so the load is back to 4 ohms, in which case you will look for a 1x600W RMS into 4 ohms amp, or just get the amp and make sure subs are wired to a 4 ohm load.

Yes you must remove the rear speakers.

For the front amp you will need a 2 channel amp, it's wattage will depend on what speakers you get. 94

 

should i be looking for brand here or what? when i get amps for my subwoofer/speakers?

http://www.woofersetc.com/index.cfm?...roduct_ID=6097
would that be a good amplifier that puts out what i should be needing/getting?

 

Always a better bet to go with brand name products, but they will cost more, I would recommend the MTX Alpine or Kicker amps, and JL Audio amps but JL does not really have a good match for your system although a 300/2 and a 1000/1 would do the job they are well overpowered for what you need, you would have to be very careful with the gain controls on the amps, both Kicker and MTX will have amps that are closer to your needs, a 1x600W-750W sub amp and a 2x60W-75W high-pass, [speaker] amp.

One thing to keep in mind, you should be looking for a good quality amp for the high-pass, [speakers] "SQ for $" and just about any amp for low-pass, [sub bass] "watts for $".

If it was my car I would be using an Alpine HU, [with sub control] the Eclipse SP6510 for the front and the SP6910 for the rear with the tweeters disabled and the backs isolated, a single 12" sub the JL Audio 300/4 for high-pass and and a JL Audio 500/1 for the low-pass, but then that's just me.94

 

hmm ic.Do i have to get 2 separate amps for my subwoofers? whats the gains of that?
also, will my front speakers handle all that pressure from being the only speakers in the car being played?? since i will be having no rears

 

Because you are running two 12" subs, 600W continuous and front speakers that will be 2x60W continuous you will need an amp that makes at least 600W RMS and one that makes at least 2x60W RMS, nobody I know of makes a single amp, 3 channel or 4 channel that can do that, closest I know of is the JL Audio 450/4v2... http://mobile.jlaudio.com/products_amps.php?amp_id=438 can be configured to a 3 channel amp with 2x75W RMS for the fronts and 1x300W RMS for the sub, which would be OK if you are running just one of the 12W3v2-D4 but underpowered for two of them.

The cadence amp you linked could be used to drive the subs although a 2ch amp it can be bridged into a 1ch 600W amp.

As long as the front speakers are installed and powered properly they will work just fine, if you want more out out of the high-pass get higher wattage speakers and a bigger amp to drive them.94

 

oic. whats with the channels for the amps? what do they mean??

also i got these recommendations on a car audio forum take a look, despite the brand they any good?
http://www.woofersetc.com/index.cfm?...roduct_ID=6097 <-- for subs
http://www.woofersetc.com/index.cfm?...roduct_ID=6201 <-- front speakers
http://www.woofersetc.com/index.cfm?...roduct_ID=6250 <-- amps for speakers
is that alpine amp good for my front speakers?

:I gave them the 500 dollar limit and kinda picked out what they thought was best for me to use...
whats your opinion against despite brand?

 

*****yx90.....for that much money, I would suggest getting MB Quart components instead of those Image Dynamics components. You will save at least $75. IMO, MB Quarts is a better brand.
http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAu...roductID=13541

 

The amp will work for the subs as long as subs are wired to 4 ohms.

The speakers would work but they are over-sized 6.5" so a custom installation is needed, and I agree with NVturbo the MB Quart is probably a better sounding speaker although they are also over-sized 6.5" requiring custom work to install properly.

The Alpine amp would work, if bridged into 2 channels.

Keep in mind WOOFERSETC.com is not an authorized dealer for any of the above, so you will not get manufacturers warranty.94

 

I dont understand what you mean by over-sized?
my stock speakers i believe in my car are 6.5"

Also is there a difference in SQ if you used less channels in an amp, or more? or maybe even power consumption?

 

Your cars stock speakers are standard 6.5", they use a 5" diameter mounting hole, over-sized 6.5" speakers use bigger then 5" diameter mounting holes, the IDs need a 5.6" diameter mounting hole, 2.86" mounting depth. RE: custom work.

Stereo is recorded on two channels, [left and right], so you need a "stereo" or 2 channel amp, one channel for the left signal and one channel for the right signal, sub bass has no stereo separation, no left or right, so all that is needed is a 1 channel amp, and a mono block, [1 channel] sub amp is best as it is designed to make bass, you can use a 2 channel amp that you have bridged into a 1 channel amp.
4 channel amps are just two stereo, [2 channel] amps in one box.
There are also 3, 5 and 6 channel amps, 3, 4, 5 and 6 channel amps are also called multi channel amps.
There are lots of ways to use multi channel amps, a common way to use a 4ch amp is to use two channels for the front speakers and bridge the other two into a one channel amp to drive the subs.

High quality amps are actually made with 1 channel amps, where most stereo amps and multi channel amps have just one power supply that is "shared" with all the channels of the amp, amps like McIntosh use two 1 channel amps to make a stereo, [2ch] amp the left and right side have their own power supplies.
OK I will stop now.94

 

Honestly, if you like to lecture, i'm hearing reading everything and appreciating it, if not then its fine. You've done a lot to help me.
I posted another question(s) on another thread, but ill guess ill ask it here as well so you dont gotta go back and forth.
(copy n pasted)
I have 2x JL Audio 12w3v2-D4 subs (4 ohm load 300 watt each)

i'm planning to get this amp: Cadence TXA-3002, it puts out
1. 4 Ohm RMS Power: 2 x 150 Watts @ 13.8 Volts
2. 2 Ohm RMS Power: 2 x 300 Watts @ 13.8 Volts
3. 4 Ohm Bridged RMS Power: 1 x 600 Watts @ 13.8 Volts

Do i look at both the ohm load and wattage of both subs when buying the amp? or just wattage?
In this case, that means that i can only choose option 3 which is: 4 ohm bridged: 1x600 watts
Or can i also do 2 ohms with 2x300 watts??
If so, what is the difference between bridged and nonbridged RMS power? please and thanks in advance!

 

Sorry for double posting, but forgot to say something on this... how did u find out the mounting diameter on the IDs were 5.6"?? Are there even any stock fit comp speakers out there??

 

You have to look at both the power handling of the speakers, in your case you have two 300W continuous subs for a total of 600W, the speakers, [subs] can be wired a lot of diff. ways using a combination of parallel and series wiring.
Wire everything in parallel and you get a 1 ohm load, too low.
Wire everything in series and you get a 16 ohm load, to high.
Wire the VCs in series (8 ohms) then the speakers in parallel and you get 4 ohms, best way.
Wire the VCs in parallel (2 ohms) then the speakers in series and you get 4 ohms, almost as good.

What the final load, [ohms] you wire the speakers to is important as it will determin how much wattage the amp will make, [that a applies to amps that do not have a regulated power supply, but that's another story], idealy you want to have a 4 - 8 ohm load for best SQ, your subs can easily be wired to 4 ohms so that is what you should use.

As mentioned sub bass should be wired to mono, there is no stereo separation so the 1x600W RMS into 4 ohms configuration is what you are looking for, with that said, you could use the 2x300W RMS into 2 ohms configuration and wire the speakers VCs in parallel for a 2 ohm load and connect one sub to each channel of the amp, this is not ideal and should only be used if there is no other way.

What's the "differance", in wattage none it 's still 600W but in SQ there will be a off, first it is a 2 ohm load, [not as good as a 4 ohm load for a few reasons] second, the two channel of an amp are never exactly the same and that has an effect on SQ when you want both the speakers, [subs] to sound exactly the same, it is less of a problem if the speakers are in their own box, [air space] in your case both speakers share the same air space.94

 

thanks for the info, as for the component speakers, its almost 99.9% that i have to do custom fit correct?

 

It is 100% sure.
Unless you get standard 6.5", and even then custom work may still be needed, depends on speaker.
The Eclipse SP6510 are standard 6.5" but still need a little custom work.94

 

Ah ic. you helped me a lot much appreciated!