I'm in the market for a new amp. Thing is I dont want a sub; just the current upgraded front and rear speakers and the tweeters.
any suggestions on a good amp for my needs?, this is the first time I look into purchasing an amp so I'm a noob over this topic. any help will be appreciated.

 

Need more info... Start with MM&Y of car

Is it a stock HU, or an aftermarket HU, make and model?

What kind of speakers, makes and models?

What are you looking to do, just get a "little more" out of the system? 94

 

haha sorry.
This is going into my 2000 Prelude. Alpine CDA-9885 Head Unit, Alpine SPR-17C front speakers, stock rear speakers (acoustic feedback), stock tweeters.
yea, basically I just want more output power out of my existing set up; volume, clarity, etc. Thx


Modified by specbb6 at 3:49 PM 1/20/2008

 

alpine makes some nice amps... maybe you should go with about a 300w amp....

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SurfDan5 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">alpine makes some nice amps... maybe you should go with about a 300w amp....</TD></TR></TABLE>

better than JL, Infinity and Rockford Fosgate? I'm a big Alpine fan, so that would be ideal. any specific model you recommend?

 

Well my setup goes as follows:

JL 10" W7
JL 500/1
JL CLean Sweep


I'm a huge fan of JL as you can see but in my opinion the V series Alpine amps are quite comparable to my 500/1... You can go wrong with an alpine v series... JL's are a little better overall but your going to pay a lot more...

 

cool, Im gonna look into JL amps, maybe I can find a good deal somewhere.
now, would an amp make a big difference with my actual setup? since I'm not running a sub, just the 4 speakers and 2 tweeters.
thx

 

I don't run a sub, not even an off-board amp, just my Alpine CDA-7892 and 4 Eclipse 6.5" 2way speakers.

There are a few things I could suggest, being an Accord with the A/F 6x9s in the rear, I would try this...

The Alpine SPR-17C are 100W speakers so I would suggest the JL Audio 450/4v2... http://mobile.jlaudio.com/prod...d=438

Use ch1 and ch2 to drive the Alpine SPR-17Cs, set "Filter Type" switch to HP, leave "Freq. Range" at x1, set "Filter Freq. (Hz)" at 100 , to start.
you will also need to play with the "Filter Mode/Slop" position when tuning.

I highly recommend that you replace the stock plastic door speaker housings with custom MDF housings, if your even a little handy with wood working tools they are an easy build.
You should also Dynamate, [or the like] the doors, a full vapor barrier replacement is the best way to go, it is a fair amount of work, but well worth the effort in SQ, especially in low frequency extension.

Use ch3 and ch4 to drive the stock rear speakers.

I would recommend that you "upgrade" the rear speaker installation also, if nothing else at least do a full rear deck Dynamat, and an MDF baffle for the rear speakers will make a big diff. in bass output, the bigger, [more mass] it is the better, but even small individual "plates" bolted to the bottom of the speaker will add mass and improve bass response.

If you have not already, disconnect the A/F system, and disable the tweeters in the 6x9s, [if present] wire the 6x9s in series to increase the impedance, and connect them to the bridged channels 3 and 4, so it is a mono signal in the rear.
Set the "High Filter Freq. (Hz)" at 50 to start, the gain, [Input Sens.] should be turned all the way down, you can even switch the "Input Voltage" switch to "High", you are going to need very little power in the rear.

If the tweeters you are talking about are the front ones, keep them connected to the HUs internal amp, [front speaker output] only connect the rear RCAs output from the HU to the amps ch1 and ch2 inputs,, switch the "Input Mode" switch to "2ch" (1& Inputs Only), you can use the HUs fade control to attenuate the stock tweeters, you should also try switching the phasing of the stock tweeters, even putting them out of phase with each other, [in both directions] having the same frequencies, particularly high frequencies, comming from two diff. locations and diff. angles, to say nothing about time alignment, can make it difficult to stage and image the system properly, that's why you diffinatly do not use any tweeters behind you.

If you like Alpine, the Alpine PDX-4.100 will do the job, and small enough to fit neatly under a front seat. preferably the batt. side of the car.

A fair amount of work, but if the above is done properly it will sound good, it will be loud and sound good, and I guarantee, people will say you must have a sub. 94

 

wow man, thanks a lot for your help, very helpful.
can I still wire the rear speakers with the new amp and keep the A/F feature?
Do you think I really need to look into buying a sub? I just didnt want to add the extra weight and I kinda find it inconvenient to have a sub box in the trunk. but maybe if you convince me I may change my mind. thanks

 

You do not have to have a sub, and no, I would not keep any of the A/F system or any of the stock wiring. 94

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fcm &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You do not have to have a sub, and no, I would not keep any of the A/F system or any of the stock wiring. 94</TD></TR></TABLE>

cool about the sub, more weight and less room ftl.
Im seriously thinking about replacing the old wiring, and keeping the a/f for a while, and then later on upgrade those suckers. thx bro.