Hey all, I'm not new to racing or anything like that, I'm brand new to honda's. Being from the DSM world, 4 motors later, I'm about ready to start a new project....

In any event, I recently stepped into the Honda/Acura world...and grabbed a hold of a 96 GSR with ITR bumpers, in outstanding shape, super low miles for its year...and got alot for what I paid.

Anyway, I've decided that I already want to start a build, and leave this motor stock. I really wanna do turbo (I already miss my snail) but I need a car at all times, so my plan is to build a motor, and keep the one thats in there running while the build goes on, then swap, and always have an insurance motor for backup.

My question is this...from what I've read and spoke to alot of local guys and guys that I know that have been doing this Honda thing for a while, LS/VTEC and LS/VTEC turbo gets it done, but isn't reliable. So I'm not going that way.

I want to do a b18c1 mild build, but seem to be having a hard time scoring up a b18c1 shortblock. My question is, do I HAVE to find a b18c1/b18c5 to do this? There are other blocks, like a b18b, if I put the b18c crank in there, will I get the same result or...?

I know I'm going with a vTec head but....i don't know. I really feel like a b18c1 with CP Pistons/Eagle rods, and some other light stuff, with a VTEC head and type R cams, with 10 or so lbs and good tune will get me to 12.0, and I'll never drop another dime on the car...your responses are already appreciated...THANKS!

 

B18a/b are none vtec blocks and putting a vtec head on them makes it an LS/VTEC. Ur gunna need a little more than that to run 12 secs. TO the contrary ls/vtec can be reliable but they require a lot of know how and $ to be a solid reliable motor.

 

well if i get a b18c1/c5 motor sleeved it'll be able to hold more boost right? that was/is the plan anyway...

so i cant use a b18a/b block @ all? even if i put a b18c1/5 crank?

 

You can but using a b18a/b block makes an ls-vtec the internals have nothing to do with it. Itll hold more boost if you get better than stock sleves ull need better rods and pistons the head will proly need to be gone through cams would greatly help and some dual valve springs.arp head studs and a solid turbo kit with a good tune and a well gone through suspetion. U gunna wanna invest some time and money in suspention and tires or ur gunna have trouble hooking up everytime.

 

hooking up and all that, I know the ills of it, coming from a FWD Turbo car.

so basically i have to use b18c1/c5 to do what i want to do. im not going to run anymore than 12 lbs, so im not going to sleeve the block. cant really afford it anyway for damn near 2000 dollars. with the head i want to do Type R cams, ARP head studs, and i already have my turbo @ the house.

 

rotteneg92, a user on here, just went 12.6 at 109mph with ls block, gsr head, and 7psi. stock head bolts, and no girdle, STOCK bottom end. it can be done on a budget. but i recommend a gsr swap. check the marketplace and see what kind of deals you can get in there. long blocks are going for way cheap lately. good luck.

 

thats what i thought...on a budget it wasn't too far off...i mean with b18c1, CP/Eagle combo, ARP studs & mains, GSR head, Type R cams, and 10 lbs, I think I could hit around that same time. Right now I'm looking for a shortblock but if a longblock is a good deal, I'll grab it.

These C1's and C5's are so friggin hard to find, LS/VTEC seems to be weapon of choice...

 

to be honest guy your goin to pay quite a bit more for a c1 or c5 block and a1 and b1 block are dime a dozen and cheap. and if you take you time and do your research you can do an ls vtec and despite what people say ls/vtec are a heck of a sight cheap than buying a stock c1 or c5. i know cuz im in the middle of building mine but to do it right and cheap you need to be willing to do some drilling and assembly of the oil line to the head. but hell i just bought a type r ecu for just under $100 shipped you just need to be willing to shop around for the best price in all i should have a 600-700 in doing the conversion. and for running boost over 10-12 psi you need either a block guard new sleeves or a dart block. the guard sucks to be honest sleeves arent bad and about half the cost of a new dart block which is about $2000. if your willing to wait take your time and spend some money for a super strong reliable setup i would tell you to go with a dart block with a new rotating GE or what ever brand you like and a full head rebuild with 1mm oversized stainless valves double spring with ti retainers and whatever cam you perfer. and i would not drop the compression down below 9:1 all the research i have done and talking to may performace shops have even said that 9:1 to 9.5:1 is great for boost because it will reduce lag and the motor alone produces some decent power and the largest bore size you should go with is 84mm to 85mm on either sleeves or boost sorry this is so long but since your new to the honda thing this should start giving you some ideas on whats out there