Links to a good battery relocation write-up
I dont know if its me or if its the same for everybody else... But does the search function suck or what?? anyway i need a good link to a write up for battery relocation..can any of you guys help me out?
Thanks
-Miguel
Thanks
-Miguel
Buy an odessy pc 685 battery. That lil damn thing fits anywhere as is lol. Starts the car no problem too. Even after sitting for 3 weeks. They can be mounted in any orientation too. Car fires up way faster too. Only takes a single crank or two max and motor turns over to idle. Its quite amazing. Battery wasn't too much money too.
I'm looking for this info though too. Wanna know what guage of wire we should be using. I'm going to use insulinks to "butt joint" the wires together. Insulinks are the bomb. I want to use weatherproof conductor and go under the car and up into the trunk I think. I don't want to run power wires through inside of my car as I think its going to cause interferrance issues.
I'm looking for this info though too. Wanna know what guage of wire we should be using. I'm going to use insulinks to "butt joint" the wires together. Insulinks are the bomb. I want to use weatherproof conductor and go under the car and up into the trunk I think. I don't want to run power wires through inside of my car as I think its going to cause interferrance issues.
I used 0 Gauge amplifier wire on my old prelude to run a battery in the trunk. The only thing I can say is definitely use a fuse right at the battery. You can burn your car if there is a short. I used a 200-amp ANL fuse and it worked fine.
Buy an odessy pc 685 battery. That lil damn thing fits anywhere as is lol. Starts the car no problem too. Even after sitting for 3 weeks. They can be mounted in any orientation too. Car fires up way faster too. Only takes a single crank or two max and motor turns over to idle. Its quite amazing. Battery wasn't too much money too.
I'm looking for this info though too. Wanna know what guage of wire we should be using. I'm going to use insulinks to "butt joint" the wires together. Insulinks are the bomb. I want to use weatherproof conductor and go under the car and up into the trunk I think. I don't want to run power wires through inside of my car as I think its going to cause interferrance issues.
I'm looking for this info though too. Wanna know what guage of wire we should be using. I'm going to use insulinks to "butt joint" the wires together. Insulinks are the bomb. I want to use weatherproof conductor and go under the car and up into the trunk I think. I don't want to run power wires through inside of my car as I think its going to cause interferrance issues.
-Miguel
Here's some threads I've bookmarked in the past.. I don't remember what is in each one, but I'm sure there's valuable info in them since I bookmarked them... Might have links inside the threads to other information.
Hopefully they help answer questions, or at least get you started..
https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-prelude-4/lightweight-battery-1805805/
https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-prelude-4/odyssey-battery-location-wtf-man-1829976/
https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-prelude-4/battery-relocated-680240/
Hopefully they help answer questions, or at least get you started..

https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-prelude-4/lightweight-battery-1805805/
https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-prelude-4/odyssey-battery-location-wtf-man-1829976/
https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-prelude-4/battery-relocated-680240/
Thanks MLB for the links...my question is, Can i just run a 0 gauge wire from the OEM + terminal, as in remove the terminal replace it with a fuse, and run the + wire to the back where the battery is going to be? or is the process a lil more complex then that??
Allentown rep.
What I would suggest is to remove the battery clamps from the wires. I'm using insulinks to butt joint the wires at your stock battery location. Run those extended wires how ever you chose/where ever you choose. I don't know if a fuse is necessary. You have a battery fuse in your car already so I don't understand why the one man suggested to add a 200 amp one.
Insulinks are big buttconnectors that essentially get crimped using a hand tool that compresses the ends around the wires. Used in underground (wet locations) wire connections for services.
btw that profile pic is halarious.
Arnold had his funny moments...especially in kindergarden cop lol
What I would suggest is to remove the battery clamps from the wires. I'm using insulinks to butt joint the wires at your stock battery location. Run those extended wires how ever you chose/where ever you choose. I don't know if a fuse is necessary. You have a battery fuse in your car already so I don't understand why the one man suggested to add a 200 amp one.
Insulinks are big buttconnectors that essentially get crimped using a hand tool that compresses the ends around the wires. Used in underground (wet locations) wire connections for services.
btw that profile pic is halarious.
Arnold had his funny moments...especially in kindergarden cop lol
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well yeah thats what i meant to say. removing the clamp.. and connecting the 0 gauge wire to an insulink then connect the insulink w/ wire to where i removed the clamp, and clamp it all together then run it to the back? so it can be done?
and yes the arnold facial expression had to be put as my icon.. it was too funny...its the part of kindergarten cop when the kids are trashing the class room and arnold screams out SHUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUT UUUUUUUUUUUUUUUP!!! LMAO
ahhh. Thats comedy
and yes the arnold facial expression had to be put as my icon.. it was too funny...its the part of kindergarten cop when the kids are trashing the class room and arnold screams out SHUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUT UUUUUUUUUUUUUUUP!!! LMAO
ahhh. Thats comedy
, lol, and the part "its not a tumor", < thats clasic .
that sounds about right. Use a thin single layer of rubberized tape around the entire connection where the insulink and wires meet, than wrap E-Tape around those. No corrosion getting in there at all and the connection will be pretty perminent. Especially because the insulinks come with a antioxidant liquid inside.
lol arnold sure is a funny character when he's not trying to be. check out the arnold sound boards and the arnold prank calls.. guaranteed to make ur day lol..anyway..
Thanks matt for the help. I jus have to wait for the battery to come in from UPS. then go buy 20 feet of that 0 gauge wire ( just in case
)
Thanks matt for the help. I jus have to wait for the battery to come in from UPS. then go buy 20 feet of that 0 gauge wire ( just in case
)
i run a 4wheeler battery mounted behind the intercooler.. I was shocked how good that battery works and it dont weigh anything.. i had a battery in the trunk a long time ago and in my opinion, its not worth it. for me more weight in the trunk is not what i want, the battery cables weigh alot, if you race you have add all this other crap to make it legal, etc...
The reason I suggested another fuse right at the battery pos. terminal is because what if the cable between the battery and your existing battery fuse shorted to the chassis? you would short the battery, and your battery fuse would sit there unblown while the battery melts.
I suppose if you use grommets anywhere the cable goes through metal, and wrap it in some split loom, and use the insulinks as you suggested, there would be almost no chance of that happening. Just be 200% careful on how you route that cable.
I suppose if you use grommets anywhere the cable goes through metal, and wrap it in some split loom, and use the insulinks as you suggested, there would be almost no chance of that happening. Just be 200% careful on how you route that cable.
Thanks prion..Prolly for extra security im going to wrap the whole cable in E-Tape then wrap it in the plastic ribbed tubing (i dont know what its called) then secure it along the chassis
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