I got the part, and I am not quite sure how to install. Obviously I would need to get all the bolts and such, but is there any bleeding of the system required? I looked in the FAQ, and didn't find anything pertaining to the install. TIA

 

i've seen abs modulators installed without people bleeding the system on honda's and have not seen any problems with it.

 

Okay cool Thank You

 

yes you have to bleed the system anytime you open the system you have to bleed it...you will need a line wrench to loosen the bolts if you are unsure of how to go this take it to someone that does as the last thing you need is to go down the street with no brakes!

 

careful bleeding the ABS mod...you'll need to attach a hose to the bleed nipple, to prevent high pressure brake fluid from shooting you in your face.

 

I got the control installed, and I did end up having the brakes bled, but no biggie. I appreciate all the help, but the light is still on, and ABS doesn't kick in.

So... could there be a fuse that needs replaced, and how would I go about resetting the light/computer to see if that might be the solution to getting the ABS working again.

Thanks everyone for your help!

 

I'm no expert on ABS but I'll tell you what I know. My 1996 accord ex 6 cyl non-vtec's ABS light is on and still on. The brake fluid level was low and the modulator had air in it. I bled it from the modulator and now the ABS light came on when I started to to move. It suggested that one or more of the 4 sensers was at fault. I intend to find out which one but it is a low priority item for me.

So, the question is, was your ABS light came on before you moved the car or after? If it was before, it is still your modulator. Do you hear a slight gurgling sound for about a minute from the mudulator after you started the car? did the ABS light came on right after?

 

ABS light comes on post-movement...

 

It does sound like it's your sensor(s). You can try cleaning them first. They are mounted right next to the left side of your brake pads. It worked for me for a few days and then went right back to the light-on condition as soon as I pulled out of the driveway above 5 mph.

You need your trusted mechanic to hook up a scanner to tell you which sensor(s) is/are at fault and replace them. I should do that myself too, lol. Update the thread if you are going to do it and how it turn out.

 

yeah i'll have to get that done... I'm selling the car soon. I'll update when I get it checked up/a warm day comes and I get my *** back out there to deal with it.

Thanks for all the help!

 

There are two different systems that need to be bled, the brake system. This is done by a standard bleed at the calipers. And the ABS system, this is done using the bleed screw on top of the modulator. If there is air "locked" inside the modulator, you must pressurize the ABS reservoir with 3 PSI to help push the air out. Honda has a service bulletin on how this is done. Be careful on the ABS system. The accumulator pumps up to 3400 PSI!