Realtime Splitter / Undertray Information
From Andrew:
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I will be selling them on a made to order basis (2-3 weeks) for $400
(shipping is extra). This includes the lip and undertray and does not
include mounting hardware -- I just used 8 dzus fasteners on the bumper.
If you would like to purchase the pieces separately, the lip is $300 and
the undertray is $100. The lip is constructed of fiberglass and the
undertray is 10mm expanded PVC sheet. Originally, I had it constructed out of
Carbon fiber and honeycomb. However, after one off-track experience that
destroyed it, I realized that we needed to make it out of more "affordable"
materials. The result was a fiberglass piece that was MUCH more rigid, with a
minimal increase in weight. The dimensions are also to World Challenge
requirements. The lip itself is about 2 inches lower than the factory
ITR lip.
Unfortunately, I didn't take any pictures of it before I sold the R, but
I will have the new owner snap a few pics and send them to me in the next
few days. Once I receive them, I will forward them to you.
If you have any other questions, please feel free to ask.
Thanks,
Andy
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Please look here for more information, as I dont really think it would be cool to flood his inbox with repeated questions.. ask them here and what I cant answer, I will forward to him.
================================================== =====
I will be selling them on a made to order basis (2-3 weeks) for $400
(shipping is extra). This includes the lip and undertray and does not
include mounting hardware -- I just used 8 dzus fasteners on the bumper.
If you would like to purchase the pieces separately, the lip is $300 and
the undertray is $100. The lip is constructed of fiberglass and the
undertray is 10mm expanded PVC sheet. Originally, I had it constructed out of
Carbon fiber and honeycomb. However, after one off-track experience that
destroyed it, I realized that we needed to make it out of more "affordable"
materials. The result was a fiberglass piece that was MUCH more rigid, with a
minimal increase in weight. The dimensions are also to World Challenge
requirements. The lip itself is about 2 inches lower than the factory
ITR lip.
Unfortunately, I didn't take any pictures of it before I sold the R, but
I will have the new owner snap a few pics and send them to me in the next
few days. Once I receive them, I will forward them to you.
If you have any other questions, please feel free to ask.
Thanks,
Andy
================================================== ========
Please look here for more information, as I dont really think it would be cool to flood his inbox with repeated questions.. ask them here and what I cant answer, I will forward to him.
I am going to guess that the undertray does not have to be used with the lip? Just trying to be absolutely sure
Thanks!
Thanks!
Dont forget it will have to be painted as well. (Krylon 0wnZ)
So these are the real deal Holyfield Real-Time Racing Lips that they use on Cunninghams ITR?
And who do I contact?
And who do I contact?
Now you tell me!
I just picked up one of these:
But am always open to the possibilities.
I could probably make use of at least an undertray and a set of some dzus fasteners, because I don't think this thing would survive long on the streets around here.
I just picked up one of these:
But am always open to the possibilities.
I could probably make use of at least an undertray and a set of some dzus fasteners, because I don't think this thing would survive long on the streets around here.
Great now we're going to start seeing these lips on cars that never see the track.
Why would you want to purchase the front lip without the undertray?
Why would you want to purchase the front lip without the undertray?
Trending Topics
what about the rear understray?
don't we need to balance out the front and the rear.
don't we need to balance out the front and the rear.
Chris -- sorry about the side tracking of the present topic with my pic. Ed
u got my interest... but what is a dzus?

Check it.

In short, it allows for convenient & quick removal of any body part. All it takes is a single turn (or less) of the screw. And voila! The body piece is fastened just like that.
Honestly, I just like the way "dzus" is pronounced.
Turns out I was incorrect in assuming it was a Realtime Replica.. SORRY!
From Andy:
One quick clarification. I want to make it clear that my lip and
undertray are not a copy of the Realtime setup. I will send the pics as soon as I
receive them.
So.. you will all have to just wait for pics.
Sorry again.
From Andy:
One quick clarification. I want to make it clear that my lip and
undertray are not a copy of the Realtime setup. I will send the pics as soon as I
receive them.
So.. you will all have to just wait for pics.
Sorry again.
Is the undertray compatible with a 94-97 Comptech Type R front lip? If so, I would be interested in purchasing one. Also, does anyone know if a rear diffuser has ever been engineered for the DC2?
Is the undertray compatible with a 94-97 Comptech Type R front lip? If so, I would be interested in purchasing one. Also, does anyone know if a rear diffuser has ever been engineered for the DC2?
Pleeeeease show me some pics on the car.
When the car is done, there will be "a few" pictures.
When the car is done, there will be "a few" pictures.
I am (was) working on a rear diffuser, and full-body undertray for my DC2. You can purchase a 4' by 8' sheet of ABS plastic from a local sign shop for less than $80. It comes black, (or any color you want) and is very easy to work with.
I have put this project aside due to the summer temps here in TX, (I don't have a garage to work in.)
You can use sheets of cardboard (displayboard works well for the final template) to test fit and create templates before you actually fabricate the pieces from plastic.
Another thing to keep in mind is that, if you are (very) well funded, you can use the plastic as a mold to lay CF on. I would only recomment this for track drivers though, as CF would not last on most city streets. It is not impact resistant like ABS and PVC.
I have put this project aside due to the summer temps here in TX, (I don't have a garage to work in.)
You can use sheets of cardboard (displayboard works well for the final template) to test fit and create templates before you actually fabricate the pieces from plastic.
Another thing to keep in mind is that, if you are (very) well funded, you can use the plastic as a mold to lay CF on. I would only recomment this for track drivers though, as CF would not last on most city streets. It is not impact resistant like ABS and PVC.
good post wotteg...time to go look at the local sign shops.
I think I will take the car to the lift and to some templating.
I think I will take the car to the lift and to some templating.





