Anyone have any links to this? I've tried the search function, but wasn't very helpful as to how to replace the gasket.

Please help! I have a state ref appt that needs to be dealt with asap!

 

1-800-call-honda hahahah you have over 5k posts and you dont know how to use the search

 

I've used it, didn't really help me find a write-up or how-to on replacing the gasket.

 

It's basically the same as all other Hondas. Remove timing belt, cams, all the sensor plugs on the intake, vacuum lines, drain coolant, remove head bolts, wiggle head off. Clean block mating area and check block and head for warpage. Address any warpage as needed. Put on new gasket, reinstall while torquing to spec and adjusting things like valve lash to stock (or as recommended by whoever makes the aftermarket cams you may or may not have)

 

wait your DA squad member #1 shouldnt you have a a little knowledge on this you can use this or heres the link
http://g2ic.com/forums/showthread.ph...ng+head+gasket



Cylinder head temperature must be below 100°F.

Before removing the cylinder head check the following:

Inspect the timing belt.

Turn the flywheel so the No. 1 cylinder is at TDC.

Mark all emission hoses before disconnecting them.

Disconnect the negative battery cable.

Drain the cooling system.

Remove the air cleaner:

Remove the air cleaner cover and filter.

Disconnect the hot/cold air intake ducts and remove the air chamber hose.

Remove the air cleaner.

Relieve the fuel pressure by slowly loosening the service bolt on the top of the fuel filter about a turn.


CAUTION

The fuel system may be under pressure and fuel will be sprayed. Be sure to take the appropriate safety and fire precautions.



Disconnect the fuel feed line. Remove the vacuum hose, breather hose and air intake hose.

Remove the water bypass hose from cylinder head. Remove the charcoal canister hose from the throttle body.

Remove the brake booster vacuum hose from the intake manifold. Remove the fuel return hose. Remove the PCV hose.

Remove the throttle cable from the throttle body. Take care not to bend the cable when removing it. Do not use pliers to remove the cable from the linkage. Always replaced a kinked cable with a new one.

Disconnect the ignition coil connector, TDC and crankshaft/cylinder sensor connector from the distributor.

Remove and tag the spark plug wirers.

Remove the emission control equipment bracket but do not disconnect the emission hoses.

Disconnect the 3 engine harness connectors on the left side of the engine compartment.

Disconnect the engine sub-harness connectors from the cylinder head and intake manifold. The connectors are as follows:

Four injector connectors.

TA sensor connector.

Throttle angle sensor connector.

EGR valve lift sensor; automatic transaxle only.

Ground cable terminal.

TW sensor ground.

Coolant temperature gauge sender terminal.

Oxygen sensor terminal.

EACV connector.

Remove the upper radiator hose and heater inlet hose from the cylinder head.

Remove the power steering belt and power steering pump. Do not disconnect the hoses from the pump.

Raise and safely support the vehicle.

Remove the left front wheel and then remove the left splash shield.

Remove the intake manifold bracket bolts and remove the exhaust manifold upper shroud.

Remove the exhaust manifold bracket. Remove front exhaust pipe and remove the exhaust manifold.

Remove the valve cover and engine ground cable.

Remove the timing belt middle cover. Loosen but do not remove the adjusting bolt and release the timing belt tension. Tighten the bolt to hold the tensioner in the released position.

Remove the timing belt from the driven pulleys. Be sure not to crimp or bend the timing belt more then 90 degrees in less then 1 in. (25mm) in diameter.

Remove the camshaft driven pulleys. Loosen all the camshaft holder bolts 1 full turn at a time to release valve spring pressure evenly. Remove the camshaft holder bolts, then remove the camshaft holders, camshafts and rocker arms.


Fig. 3: Cylinder head and valve train-1991-93 Integra 1.8L




Fig. 4: Cylinder head bolt loosening sequence-1991-93 Integra 1.8L




Fig. 5: Cylinder head bolt torque sequence-1991-93 Integra 1.8L




Fig. 6: Cylinder head and valve train-1991-93 Integra 1.7L




Fig. 7: Cylinder head bolt loosening sequence-1991-93 Integra 1.7L




Fig. 8: Cylinder head bolt torque sequence-1991-93 Integra 1.7L



Remove the cylinder head bolts and remove the cylinder head. To prevent warpage, unscrew all the cylinder head bolts in sequence 1/3 turn at a time, repeat this sequence until all the bolts are loosened.

Remove the intake manifold from the cylinder head.

To install:

Use new gaskets and install the intake manifold onto the cylinder head and tighten the nuts in a crisscrosss pattern in 2-3 steps, beginning in the middle. Torque the nuts to 17 ft. lbs. (23 Nm).

Install the cylinder head onto the engine block, after making sure the mating surface was cleaned and a new gasket was installed. Be sure to pay attention to the following points:

Be sure the No. 1 cylinder is at TDC and the camshaft pulley UP mark is on the top before positioning the head in place.

The cylinder head dowel pins and oil control jet must be aligned.

Torque the cylinder head bolts, in 2 progressive steps: First to 22 ft. lbs. (30 Nm), in sequence, then to 61 ft. lbs. (85 Nm), in the same sequence. This sequence is the same as on earlier Integra engines.

Apply engine oil to the cylinder head bolts and washers. Use the longer bolt in the No. 1 and No. 2 positions.

Make sure the keyways on the camshafts are facing up. The valve locknuts should be loosened and the adjusting screw backed off before installation. Replace the rocker arms in their original position.

Place the rocker arms on the pivot bolts and the valve stems.

Install the camshafts and the camshaft seals with the open spring side facing in.

Be sure to note the I and E marks that are stamped on the camshaft holders. Do not apply oil to the seal mating surface of the camshaft holders.

Apply a liquid gasket to the head of the mating surfaces of the No. 1 and No. 6 camshaft holders then install them, along with No. 2, 3, 4 and 5. Tighten each bolt 1 turn at a time to insure that the rockers do not bind on the valves.

Torque the camshaft holder bolts and make sure the rocker arms are properly positioned on the valve stems. Start at the center holders and work out towards the ends, torque the bolts to 9 ft. lbs. (12 Nm).

Press in the camshaft seal securely with a suitable seal driver.

Install the keys into their groves in the camshafts. To set the No. 1 piston at TDC, align the holes on the camshaft with the holes in the No. 1 camshaft holders and drive 5.0mm pin punches into the holes.

Push the camshaft pulleys onto the camshafts, then torque the retaining bolts to 27 ft. lbs. (38 Nm).

Install the timing belt and adjust the tension. Install the lower and middle timing belt covers and bolts.

Install the valve cover and engine ground cable.

Install the exhaust manifold and torque the nuts to 23 ft. lbs. (32 Nm). Install the bracket and upper shroud and attach the exhaust pipe.

Install the left front wheel splash shield and the left front wheel. Lower the vehicle.

Install the power steering pump and drive belt.

Reconnect all disconnected electrical connections and vacuum lines.

Reconnect the upper radiator hose and heater inlet hose.

Reinstall the spark plug wires to the spark plugs.

Install the engine ground wire to the valve cover. Reconnect the throttle cable from the throttle body.

Reinstall the air cleaner assembly and duct work that goes along with it. Reconnect the negative battery cable.

After installation, check to see that all hoses and wires are installed correctly.

Refill the coolant system.

Adjust the valve clearance. Make all other necessary adjustments

It is recommended that after completing the cylinder head removal and installation, the engine oil should be changed.




If you don't think you can handle it, take it to the mechanic. But if you have someone who knows about it, and willing to help you out, heck.. why not?

 

thanx!!

i don't think i can handle it, but i'd like to have the chance to get at it if anything. f'sure ima have someone who knows what to do with me of course...

this thread should be put in the archives!!

 

its not that hard just make sure you get a hanes manul and a good torque wrench and make sure everything is torqued to spec and you should be fine but make sure you have the head surfaced or youll hate yourself lol

 

Honestly dude, get a Service manual. That should be the first thing you buy when you get any honda besides an alarm.

 

You can't handle it? This is so easy man. I replaced my gf's timing belt, hg, water pump, and oil pump in like 3.5 hours by myself.