they both have the same plug, where do the two go? the switch goes to the thermostat housing right?....and where is the other one located?

 

The 2-wire temperature sensor is located below the distributor and next to the 1-wire temperature sending unit.

 

both are 2 wire sensor is green/white-red/white
switch is green-black

 

bump

 

The two-wire coolant temperature switch is located in the thermostat housing, whereas the two-wire coolant temperature sensor is located below the distributor. Two coolant temperature measuring devices are located under the distributor -- the one-wire coolant temperature sending unit for the dash gauge and two wire coolant temperature sensor. The latter sensor is closer to the radiator than is the sending unit.

 

Old thread i know, but this is exactly the info im needing.

92 eg b7/z6 swap. My rad fan WILL come on if i jump the temp switch, my gauge works, but my fan doesnt turn on by itself.

Could the coolant temp switch AND sensor both cause this? In other words, if either one fails, the fan wont work automatically?

 

no the fan is only controlled by the switch in the thermostat housing. the 2-wire ECT sensor under the dizzy gives coolant readings to the ecu for fuel/timing adjustments. the 1-wire sensor under the dizzy gives readings to the dash gauge

 

ok, could the ECT sensor under the dizzy cause shitty gas milage if its goin bad?

 

possibly, if it is giving false readings then it could be adding to much fuel when it shouldnt be. most likely you would get CEL #6 if sensor was actually bad. do you have any CELs?

 

CEL 10, IAT sensor, i bought a brand new one from Honda and i still get the same code. Found out later that my IACV and IAT sensor plugs were switched, i corrected that and i still got the code.

The IAT colors are grn/wht, red/ylw...i believe, i may have gotten that mixed around but the main colors and red and green.

My gas gauge seems to be on a "float" type level indicator, which doesnt seem right since my last eg never did this. Just last night i filled up, hit the F and i'de make a turn to get onto the freeway and it would drop to 3/4 of a tank and move around anywhere from 1/2 back to F.

I have the smell of fuel in the engine bay, when i changed the oil, i noticed a fuel smell in the oil as well.

 

unfortunately swapping those plugs can "burn out" parts on the ecu. open it up and see if there are any resistors that looks burnt.

bad wiring can cause CELs too, sometimes its not just the sensor itself

 

Forgot to mention this, its a stock b7 ecu, i need to pick up a p28. If everything was wired correctly, could the CEL still exist just because of the wrong ECU? maybe wrong pin outs for the IAT at the ECU?

Dont get me wrong, the car runs like a champ, it idles around 1000-1500rpm right now tho. I have an open vac hole from the back of the IM to the evap canister, when i plug in the vac line, or plug off the open nipple, the idle goes to below 500rpm and eventually dies.

My throttle cable seems to have a litttle bit of play in it between the TB and mounting bracket for throttle cable. I think my idle screw was messed with a little bit but im not sure. It looks like the idle screw was screwed UP, give the cable some slack.

 

you got all kinds of stuff going on.

1. all obd1 ecus have the same pinout
2. sounds like you need to adjust the base idle. you shouldnt need to create a vac leak to keep the car running, sounds like iacv isnt working or base idle is wrong
3. i dont think a little slack is a problem, again check idle screw.

 

Im probably making everything sound more complicated than it is.

The gas milage and idle are the problems, im sure the p28 will help the matter, i also need to see if all my o-rings are intact on my injectors.

I'll clean out the IACV when i get home. I need to see a picture of some wiring for a b7 intake manifold, i need to see the colors of the IAT sensor wires and the IACV wires.

 

http://www.wonderbart.com/images/08/...ine_wiring.gif

looks like iacv is black/yellow & blue/yellow. iat is red/yellow & green/white

 

I know for a fact my IAT is hooked up with the correct wiring now.

Ignore the ugly wiring, this is how it WAS...notice that the red/ylw and grn/wht are NOT going to the IAT..it was leading to the IACV. I've cleaned up the wiring and fixed the connectors so here is the old pic.