b18a1 with jdm b16 head,b16 trans no lsd,dc sport headers,aem intake,full exhaust system

about a week ago i went to J-K tuning to do a compression test and the results were
150-145-140-120

After seeing these results i went home and researched my *** off and i came to the conclusion that im going to go all motor since im on a budget turbo wouldnt be to wise

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...m=390027201099
and arp headstuds and a skunk 2 pro series intake manifold is all i have

basically with my block having them pistons and rods and my stock b16 head does any one have any idea give me a estimate on how much whp n tq and how reliable this set up is

 

heres a great thread/site to building a reliable ls/vtec. i didn't think people actually still did this considering how cheap Bseries vtec blocks are now that Kseries is the new thing.

http://hondaswap.com/general-tech-ar...ls-vtec-85477/

 

oops double post.

 

that thread is here too
https://honda-tech.com/forums/all-motor-naturally-aspirated-44/how-build-%22reliable%22-lsvtec-b20vtec-1676914/

people still do it because you can get more power all motor out of a lsvtec than just a vtec block ,thats mainly because you are building a motor so you can do things like raise the compression and replace worn internals to freshen the motor, versus just a worn out stock motor....that and people still want way too much for b18cs, and b16s

my buddy is putting down 12.90s with his and my old zex kit (55shot)

 

those compression numbers look a bit low. an LSV should be anywhere between 185 and 200

 

I understand that in some areas bseries vtec motors are still outrageously overpriced. but you can piece one together for around the same price as a lsv. for me personally, i just feel that it has to do with piece of mind. your putting a high revving head into a block that wasn't built for it. and considering that lsv was suppose to be a cheaper alternative to doing a full swap, it just doesn't add up anymore.

 

ARP rod bolts solve this problem. just be sure to get the rods re-rounded when you have them put in.

If you build a LSV correctly it is just as dependable as a b16 or gsr swap.

 

exactly....theres nothing wrong with them if properly done, just like putting together a stock motor, if you do it wrong or half-assed it isnt going to last

 

hey im thinking putting together a ls/vtec using b16 head (shave probably ), skunk2 stage2 cams wit aem adj camgears, arp head studs and dont know if to go wit b16 high copression or CTR pistons witch one ya recomend... and another ?.. are gsr dual valves spring both side good for those cams...thanks if anyone can help

 

you will need to build your head to run those cams... stock strpings and retainers wont hold up.

I would go with the CTR pistons if you plan on going all motor. just make sure you have valve clearance and dont ever want to run boost

 

those cams are way to aggressive for your setup. stick with the tuner stage 1s, you dont need adjustable cam gears with them, so you can save that money and put it towards an aftermarket valve train