b series clutch question?
I put an 01 gsr swap into my car. I know i couldnt use the hydraulic tranny so i sold the GSR tranny and bought a tranny from a 91 integra LS.
My question is will the clutch and flywheel that was in the swap originally work with the cable tranny?
My question is will the clutch and flywheel that was in the swap originally work with the cable tranny?
Why? If the clutch went on the splines then you can use it. Some of the diameters are different on the input shafts. The throw out bearing would need to be reused from the cable tranny. So if it is together then you should be good to go and why would you be asking? Not being an *** I just don't get why you would ask if it is together...
Wait so if the tranny went onto the block and bolted together without a problem then the clutch will work with the hydro clutch?
The tranny and motor are back together and already in the car...
I'm assuming I shouldnt have a problem? I just asked because I didnt know if a hydro clutch and a tranny clutch were different besides the splines.
The tranny and motor are back together and already in the car...
I'm assuming I shouldnt have a problem? I just asked because I didnt know if a hydro clutch and a tranny clutch were different besides the splines.
Actually you could have used the Hydro Tranny. just need to get different mounts.
i know that, i had a cable tranny laying around and didnt have mounts for the swap yet. i sold the gsr tranny for extra funds to complete my swap and just threw the cable tranny in.
will probably convert to hydro when i turbo this spring.
will probably convert to hydro when i turbo this spring.
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if the teeth are to loose on the the trany it will rip the teeth off the clutch i seen it happen befor. something to think about when u down it on someone and your clutch goes out.
This is a good point. I don't remember the exact numbers, but I'm sure if you search around a little bit, you will find the exact numbers. The input shafts on honda B series trannies come in 2 diameters (as far as I know), and I know for a fact that the 90-93 integra tranny has a smaller diameter than the Type-R tranny. I think the difference is about 4mm. Anyway, the point is that it is possible that the input shaft will physically fit into the clutch, but that doesn't mean that it is a "good" fit.
I would do more research to see if you can find the difference in their diameters and number of teeth before I headed to the local drag strip...
whatever you do don't start it up as is. you were able to bolt up the trans fine because the splines on the 90-91 ls trannies are 1/32" of an inch smaller than the 92+ discs. you need a 90-91 friction disc. throwout bearing, pressure plate, pilot bearing, and flywheel don't have to change.
Last edited by D16SiHatch; Feb 4, 2009 at 12:31 AM.
what he found was what i already told him...
90-91 teg clutch discs have an input spline diameter of 1", 8 3/4" width
92-93 teg clutch discs have an input spline diameter of 1 1/32", 8 5/8" width
94+ discs are also 1 1/32"
-spline count of 24 remains the same through all the years
That would be why he was able to put the smaller input spline into the larger hydro clutch disc, and why starting it as is would be highly unadvisable.
90-91 teg clutch discs have an input spline diameter of 1", 8 3/4" width
92-93 teg clutch discs have an input spline diameter of 1 1/32", 8 5/8" width
94+ discs are also 1 1/32"
-spline count of 24 remains the same through all the years
That would be why he was able to put the smaller input spline into the larger hydro clutch disc, and why starting it as is would be highly unadvisable.
Thanks for that info. I obviously had no idea about the diameters of the input shafts of the various transmissions. Regarding the actual measurements however, were they expressed in standard units, or were they originally expressed in metric units?
Also, what is your source on those figures?
Also, what is your source on those figures?
Thanks for that info. I obviously had no idea about the diameters of the input shafts of the various transmissions. Regarding the actual measurements however, were they expressed in standard units, or were they originally expressed in metric units?
Also, what is your source on those figures?
Also, what is your source on those figures?
I also found this out myself personally. i thought i had a 91 ls trans so i purchased a 90-91 clutch. not thinking it would matter because i thought 90-93 were all the same anyway. when i went to slide the transmission into the clutch disc so i could get it all bolted up it just would not go in no matter what i tried. i then removed the clutch disc and tried to slide it onto the input shaft. still wouldn't go. then i counted the splines and they both turned out to be the same. needless to say i was fairly confused at this point. after some searching i discovered that the 92-93 clutch discs were different, and the possibility hit me that my ls trans was actually a 92/93. This explained why i couldnt get my 1 1/32" input spline into the 1" disc. once i received the correct clutch disc it slid right on with no trouble.
interesting. I wonder if the larger diameter input shaft also means beefier transmission internal parts (possibly higher quality and less prone to grinding??????
I have a 90 - 91 clutch (stage 2) and I have been replacing my trannies about every 2 or 3 years because the 3rd gear keeps going bad.
I'm wondering now if replacing my tranny and clutch with 92 - 93 parts would prevent this from happening...
How has yours been holding up? and What kind of WHP are you putting down? I'm around 240 right now...
I have a 90 - 91 clutch (stage 2) and I have been replacing my trannies about every 2 or 3 years because the 3rd gear keeps going bad.
I'm wondering now if replacing my tranny and clutch with 92 - 93 parts would prevent this from happening...
How has yours been holding up? and What kind of WHP are you putting down? I'm around 240 right now...
its been holdin up just fine. of course i have absolutely no idea how many miles are on it lol. whp? uhh probably like around stock #'s for a b18b i would guess. just i/h/e and a xs power skunk 2 replica intake manifold. come spring/summer i'm purchasing a 57 trim t3/t4 and i think i'm going to run 11-12 psi, aiming for high 200's. once i get that up and going i think i'll get another ls bottom end and build that up (eagle rods, arp hardware). then swap it in and run 17-18 psi, lookin for mid 300 range.
You're probably around 115 - 125 WHP at this point. The only things you need to hit 300s with an LS are bigger injectors, 3" turbo back (including downpipe), higher RPM perband cam, new spark plugs (NGK 7s), tunable ECU, a boost controller, and a good tuner with a dyno. Depending on which tubo you get, you should be able to reach those numbers on a stock LS block and internals (except for the cam). I think the LS cams top out around 6500 - 7000 RPM.
The nice thing about the LS blocks is that they are damn near bullet proof, and you can boost the crap out of them because they have a close-to-ideal compression ratio for turbocharging.
I would only get internals if I was planning to go over 400 WHP. If you do a search on Google, you can find plenty of guys boosting their stock LS motors and putting down some crazy numbers.
Of course, you would want to do a compression test on it to make sure everything is nice and sealed up before you start boosting, but I doubt you will have any problems with that.
Anyway, good luck with that, and hopefully you helped this cat with his clutch. I'm wondering if he hasn't replied because he fixed the issue or because he is stuck somewhere with a frozen up tranny, busted axles, or soemthing like that...
The nice thing about the LS blocks is that they are damn near bullet proof, and you can boost the crap out of them because they have a close-to-ideal compression ratio for turbocharging.
I would only get internals if I was planning to go over 400 WHP. If you do a search on Google, you can find plenty of guys boosting their stock LS motors and putting down some crazy numbers.
Of course, you would want to do a compression test on it to make sure everything is nice and sealed up before you start boosting, but I doubt you will have any problems with that.
Anyway, good luck with that, and hopefully you helped this cat with his clutch. I'm wondering if he hasn't replied because he fixed the issue or because he is stuck somewhere with a frozen up tranny, busted axles, or soemthing like that...
LOL no I'm here still, I'm actually only on the internet at my girlfriends house right now due to my computers epic fail.
My tranny is from a 92, I got ahold of my buddy who wrecked his DA and ende dup parting the car, from which i purchased the tranny.
I'm putting a rad in and going to source a header and I'll be ready to rock and roll.
Can't wait, and thanks again for the help guys.
My tranny is from a 92, I got ahold of my buddy who wrecked his DA and ende dup parting the car, from which i purchased the tranny.
I'm putting a rad in and going to source a header and I'll be ready to rock and roll.
Can't wait, and thanks again for the help guys.
You're probably around 115 - 125 WHP at this point. The only things you need to hit 300s with an LS are bigger injectors, 3" turbo back (including downpipe), higher RPM perband cam, new spark plugs (NGK 7s), tunable ECU, a boost controller, and a good tuner with a dyno. Depending on which tubo you get, you should be able to reach those numbers on a stock LS block and internals (except for the cam). I think the LS cams top out around 6500 - 7000 RPM.
The nice thing about the LS blocks is that they are damn near bullet proof, and you can boost the crap out of them because they have a close-to-ideal compression ratio for turbocharging.
I would only get internals if I was planning to go over 400 WHP. If you do a search on Google, you can find plenty of guys boosting their stock LS motors and putting down some crazy numbers.
Of course, you would want to do a compression test on it to make sure everything is nice and sealed up before you start boosting, but I doubt you will have any problems with that.
The nice thing about the LS blocks is that they are damn near bullet proof, and you can boost the crap out of them because they have a close-to-ideal compression ratio for turbocharging.
I would only get internals if I was planning to go over 400 WHP. If you do a search on Google, you can find plenty of guys boosting their stock LS motors and putting down some crazy numbers.
Of course, you would want to do a compression test on it to make sure everything is nice and sealed up before you start boosting, but I doubt you will have any problems with that.
ok that being said. /end threadjack
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