Only one Driveshaft Spinning
**** UPDATE SEE BOTTOM ****
Only my passenger wheel has power to it. I know this is typical of Non-LSD Open differential transmissions.. But at all times I can feel no power to my Drivers side drive shaft. Also, when I'm slowing down if I let go of the wheel I feel a slight jerk to the left-(drivers side)
This is a non lsd H22 trans.. I realize that the least resistance is towards the passenger shaft but i swear on my life every once in awhile............ i feel the power come back to that other shaft and I can really tell a difference......... I really think there is something wrong but I can't figure out what. Almost seems like one CV Shaft is broke, but I've replaced them both. I've also replaced the intermediate shaft Bearing...
When the power comes back to that other wheel, (this has been on & off for years) My car pulls sooo much harder. I mean it's a considerable difference so I know somethings up.
A long time ago, I can in slight accident and hit a curb and cracked the transmission case. The car has never had a problem driving but i'm wondering if maybe I messed something up internally. I also hear a slight rubbing noise right under my feet and i 'feel' like its coming from the intermediate shaft..
-or is it possible that the Intermediate Shaft could pop out, or drive shaft, with out leaking trany fluid?
-If I jack it up, and only one wheel spins, there is something wrong, right? I was under the impression that with the non LSD Open Differential the other wheel will spin in the opposite Direction... one forwards one reverse
I read it could be the hub, caliper seizing up or broken CV Shaft, and I don't believe it's any of these things.
Please Heelpp
Only my passenger wheel has power to it. I know this is typical of Non-LSD Open differential transmissions.. But at all times I can feel no power to my Drivers side drive shaft. Also, when I'm slowing down if I let go of the wheel I feel a slight jerk to the left-(drivers side)
This is a non lsd H22 trans.. I realize that the least resistance is towards the passenger shaft but i swear on my life every once in awhile............ i feel the power come back to that other shaft and I can really tell a difference......... I really think there is something wrong but I can't figure out what. Almost seems like one CV Shaft is broke, but I've replaced them both. I've also replaced the intermediate shaft Bearing...
When the power comes back to that other wheel, (this has been on & off for years) My car pulls sooo much harder. I mean it's a considerable difference so I know somethings up.
A long time ago, I can in slight accident and hit a curb and cracked the transmission case. The car has never had a problem driving but i'm wondering if maybe I messed something up internally. I also hear a slight rubbing noise right under my feet and i 'feel' like its coming from the intermediate shaft..
-or is it possible that the Intermediate Shaft could pop out, or drive shaft, with out leaking trany fluid?
-If I jack it up, and only one wheel spins, there is something wrong, right? I was under the impression that with the non LSD Open Differential the other wheel will spin in the opposite Direction... one forwards one reverse
I read it could be the hub, caliper seizing up or broken CV Shaft, and I don't believe it's any of these things.
Please Heelpp
Last edited by MikeLuder; Sep 17, 2009 at 10:48 PM.
yeah the "axles" can be disconnected and delivering no power without leaking tranny fluid. my best advice to you would be to get under your car and inspect. if the axles are not aligned and properly mated to the tranny then you have found your problem.
Can you actually verify that your wheel isnt spinning? Mabey its just your mind playing tricks on you.
Throw your car up on a set of jackstands, and have someone watch your wheels spin.
Throw your car up on a set of jackstands, and have someone watch your wheels spin.
Block your rear wheels well and put ebrake on. Make sure you use two sturdy jack stands up at the proper supports.
Last edited by mattsnooz; Jan 31, 2009 at 09:08 AM. Reason: spelling
Got it Jacked up today and this is what I found out
the oposite does spin in reverse direction.. and cv shafts are in. some of my header wrap was wrapped up in the intermediate shaft, but not resisting it.
I really feel like the Drivers side CV shaft is broken, or coming in and out of the joint under load. It's definitely In the actual Hub, And Outter Bearing, but something has to be giving. I've never had one break and not make a **** load of noise and have violent jerking. However, the steering wheel does have minor jerk towards drivers side wheel, just like when a cv shaft is broken (not as violent). It ticks towards the Left.. (symtoms of a broken shaft)
Also, I checked for play, and tried to spin the Tire and hold the shaft to see if it was spinning ok, and It did. There is no tear in my boot or grease around it. Everything looks normal..
? Is it possible that on the Inner Joint of the shaft, Inside of the boot, the case for the bearings is broken.. causing it to slip under heavy load.. or The gear teeth inside of the boot are poppin back in out. So when I 'Feel' like I have both wheels spinning it makes a big Difference.
Both of my shafts are about 8months old & I have lifetime warranty so I can get the free ones if I need one replaced.
Advance Autoparts Deal is sweet, btw.
The thing is, It doesn't click, or make any type or noise really. Seems to look fine, and spins the way it's supposed to. The shaft has to be coming in and out under load or something!
This is irrelevant, but my girlfriend even noticed something is wrong with it. It revs up almost like my clutch is slipping, except my more dominant wheel is spinning. so It' s not the clutch.
the oposite does spin in reverse direction.. and cv shafts are in. some of my header wrap was wrapped up in the intermediate shaft, but not resisting it.
I really feel like the Drivers side CV shaft is broken, or coming in and out of the joint under load. It's definitely In the actual Hub, And Outter Bearing, but something has to be giving. I've never had one break and not make a **** load of noise and have violent jerking. However, the steering wheel does have minor jerk towards drivers side wheel, just like when a cv shaft is broken (not as violent). It ticks towards the Left.. (symtoms of a broken shaft)
Also, I checked for play, and tried to spin the Tire and hold the shaft to see if it was spinning ok, and It did. There is no tear in my boot or grease around it. Everything looks normal..
? Is it possible that on the Inner Joint of the shaft, Inside of the boot, the case for the bearings is broken.. causing it to slip under heavy load.. or The gear teeth inside of the boot are poppin back in out. So when I 'Feel' like I have both wheels spinning it makes a big Difference.
Both of my shafts are about 8months old & I have lifetime warranty so I can get the free ones if I need one replaced.
Advance Autoparts Deal is sweet, btw. The thing is, It doesn't click, or make any type or noise really. Seems to look fine, and spins the way it's supposed to. The shaft has to be coming in and out under load or something!
This is irrelevant, but my girlfriend even noticed something is wrong with it. It revs up almost like my clutch is slipping, except my more dominant wheel is spinning. so It' s not the clutch.
i would seriously double check for sticking calipers bad wheel bearing, or something holding the driver axle up.
if your drive shaft was working its way out the the transmission, enough to lose power you would hear a god-awful loud metal tooth engagement. it would sound like someone ramming a running car in gear without using the clutch.
and IF the drive shaft "came out" of the transmission ALL power would be sent to that side of the open differential, because of physics all available power will always follow the path of least resistance.
if your drive shaft was working its way out the the transmission, enough to lose power you would hear a god-awful loud metal tooth engagement. it would sound like someone ramming a running car in gear without using the clutch.
and IF the drive shaft "came out" of the transmission ALL power would be sent to that side of the open differential, because of physics all available power will always follow the path of least resistance.
the parts inside the boot can come out without you noticing. either go claim your lifetime warranty or take it apart yourself and make sure everything's working properly. i've rebuilt many h22 axles and if you've done it before you know how perfect everything has to be to fit properly.
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i would seriously double check for sticking calipers bad wheel bearing, or something holding the driver axle up.
if your drive shaft was working its way out the the transmission, enough to lose power you would hear a god-awful loud metal tooth engagement. it would sound like someone ramming a running car in gear without using the clutch.
and IF the drive shaft "came out" of the transmission ALL power would be sent to that side of the open differential, because of physics all available power will always follow the path of least resistance.
if your drive shaft was working its way out the the transmission, enough to lose power you would hear a god-awful loud metal tooth engagement. it would sound like someone ramming a running car in gear without using the clutch.
and IF the drive shaft "came out" of the transmission ALL power would be sent to that side of the open differential, because of physics all available power will always follow the path of least resistance.
^-- yeah do that too. ill add that the axle doesn't have to make a god awful noise to have something wrong with it. those 3 metal square pieces inside the boot can break and shred and the car won't make a noise. i put them on backwards before and it sheared the edges right off so the car didn't make any weird noises after that but I knew something was wrong when my car was trying to U-turn while the steering wheel was straight.
Yeah, There is No noise being made. I feel like if it's coming out of anywhere, It's inside the boot. But wouldn't that cause the boot to tear? There is slight play and I feel like I can kinda push it inner bar, in and out about half an inch. and once I push it in, It doesn't want to wiggle hardly at all. Which makes me think thats when it's Reaally in there the way it should be.
I wiggled to check for wheel bearing, and looked at breaks. pads need replaced but it's not stuck.
The Jerk in the steering wheel tells me something is up with it.. I should just get it replaced.. but it's just weird.
you would notice rotor drag, youd smell the pads and it would be red hot.
im constantly driving my h22a accord or my stock accord... going from lsd to non lsd every couple days. diffs just dont work one day and and work a day later.
what happened after you cracked the transmission case? drop oil? sheared off some of the teeth on one of the gears in the dif? i think thats where your problem is. where did you have the tranny work done? was it doing this before you cracked the tranny case too?
try replacing your tranny oil first that is supposed to be done every other motor oil change...
MT
API Service Grade: SF or SG
SAE viscosity:
10 W - 30 or 1O W - 40
AT
Honda Premium Formula Aulomatic Transmission
Fluido r an equivalentD EXRON@II Automatic
im constantly driving my h22a accord or my stock accord... going from lsd to non lsd every couple days. diffs just dont work one day and and work a day later.
what happened after you cracked the transmission case? drop oil? sheared off some of the teeth on one of the gears in the dif? i think thats where your problem is. where did you have the tranny work done? was it doing this before you cracked the tranny case too?
try replacing your tranny oil first that is supposed to be done every other motor oil change...
MT
API Service Grade: SF or SG
SAE viscosity:
10 W - 30 or 1O W - 40
AT
Honda Premium Formula Aulomatic Transmission
Fluido r an equivalentD EXRON@II Automatic
Transmission case Is cracked at the very bottom, right by the lowest flywheel cover bolt. The case isn't leaking.. and the crack doesn't seem close to the differential but the impact could of shook things up in there. This has been several years ago, though.
I've changed the trany fluid (manual) about six months ago with Honda MTF.
The times when I think I feel both tires spinning.. It's a pretty big difference on how the car 'feels' while hard acceleration. you can feel the power from the drivers side, also. i'm not sure if the perfect conditions are met where it feels more equal than another time..
I've been suspecting the transmission the whole time since the accident, but like I said it doesn't leak and seems to be okay after years.
I've changed the trany fluid (manual) about six months ago with Honda MTF.
The times when I think I feel both tires spinning.. It's a pretty big difference on how the car 'feels' while hard acceleration. you can feel the power from the drivers side, also. i'm not sure if the perfect conditions are met where it feels more equal than another time..
I've been suspecting the transmission the whole time since the accident, but like I said it doesn't leak and seems to be okay after years.
ic ic. it seems like one of those things thats hard to describe, and you have to see for yourself.
i know on my stock accord... the wheel thats usually getting the power is the passenger side, not sure why other than weight distribution i guess.
i've only drained the tranny oil from my accord with the h22a once and that was cuz i was doing the clutch and flywheel, so im not 100% sure if these trannys have it or not. i know a lot of trannys have tranny oil and dif oil... if these trannys have the 2 seperate oil compartments... heres something you can try, i learned this from my dad awhile ago. i have a 87 s10 with a 350 dropped into it, well the poor truck is a one wheel peel, we put thicker oil into the dif, if im at a stop light or something and the oil isnt too hot, i can floor it and smoke both the tires until the oil gets hot and the open dif will do its job.
i know on my stock accord... the wheel thats usually getting the power is the passenger side, not sure why other than weight distribution i guess.
i've only drained the tranny oil from my accord with the h22a once and that was cuz i was doing the clutch and flywheel, so im not 100% sure if these trannys have it or not. i know a lot of trannys have tranny oil and dif oil... if these trannys have the 2 seperate oil compartments... heres something you can try, i learned this from my dad awhile ago. i have a 87 s10 with a 350 dropped into it, well the poor truck is a one wheel peel, we put thicker oil into the dif, if im at a stop light or something and the oil isnt too hot, i can floor it and smoke both the tires until the oil gets hot and the open dif will do its job.
Apparently from what I can see nothing is wrong with it. I think the CV shaft is getting worn out probably causing the Steering wheel tick.
As far as the one wheel, I'm coming up with this theory that maybe my dominate tire is getting worn down and with power it's just spinning up. and since no LSD = I don't go anywhere.
I should just pull my trans and put the Guts / Gears into my H23 Trans Case and put a LSD on and maybe I could actually get somewhere with this flippin thing.
I was under the impression that both wheels would spin all the time.. unless there was slippage. apparently not.
As far as the one wheel, I'm coming up with this theory that maybe my dominate tire is getting worn down and with power it's just spinning up. and since no LSD = I don't go anywhere.
I should just pull my trans and put the Guts / Gears into my H23 Trans Case and put a LSD on and maybe I could actually get somewhere with this flippin thing.
I was under the impression that both wheels would spin all the time.. unless there was slippage. apparently not.
Update on the ONE driveshaft spinning --
Well Indeed DID have both shafts spinning, the problem was actually my transmission Mount "bracket" that holds the Trany Mount, was broken OFF the chassis.
so basically, I only had two motor mounts and a **** ton of play during hard acceleration, the shafts were losing the torque and not aligned properly, So thats why it was all jacked.
I'm using Innovatives 85A mounts, and they eventually broke the welds from the torque.
-All is good now. Re-Welded the bracket and Re-installed the transmission and now it feels much more even power distribution.
Well Indeed DID have both shafts spinning, the problem was actually my transmission Mount "bracket" that holds the Trany Mount, was broken OFF the chassis.
so basically, I only had two motor mounts and a **** ton of play during hard acceleration, the shafts were losing the torque and not aligned properly, So thats why it was all jacked.
I'm using Innovatives 85A mounts, and they eventually broke the welds from the torque.
-All is good now. Re-Welded the bracket and Re-installed the transmission and now it feels much more even power distribution.
well they are sposed to yeah. just if you lose traction in one of your wheels it's doesn't send it power to the other wheel like LSD does. thus, limited slip, there is still slippage.
-when I accelerated hard in my car it was obvious that I was only spinning one wheel, as only one wheel would spin thru (lose traction) and you could tell something was definitely wrong.
a normal front wheel drive car should still feel like both wheels are pulling equally, depending on road conditions and cornering, or drag racing, LSD is hard to tell that it's there. Oh, but you CAN tell if you know.
-when I accelerated hard in my car it was obvious that I was only spinning one wheel, as only one wheel would spin thru (lose traction) and you could tell something was definitely wrong.
a normal front wheel drive car should still feel like both wheels are pulling equally, depending on road conditions and cornering, or drag racing, LSD is hard to tell that it's there. Oh, but you CAN tell if you know.
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