Methods for Stripping this Paint??
I'm prepping my Accord to get resprayed. To make a long story short, the OEM paint had taken a beating, so the hood, fenders and front bumper were rattle-canned to prevent rust.
So now I need to strip off this thick rattle-canned coat, and the wheel I'm using doesn't discriminate, so the OEM layer is coming off as well to get a nice surface for primer.
Right now I'm using an abrasive stripping wheel on a drill to remove them, then using a palm sander to even out any sketchy spots. It's very slow work, but isn't all prep?
Is there a better (faster) way to strip this thing down, and is it ok for me to strip the hood and fenders down to the metal like this? I'm afraid to use the wheel on the bumper cover out of fear that it'll just melt it, and eff up my surface. What can I do to strip the urethane?
I'll leave you with some photos of my work so far. This is about an hour's worth of sanding...
Thanks in advance.
-Jason


So now I need to strip off this thick rattle-canned coat, and the wheel I'm using doesn't discriminate, so the OEM layer is coming off as well to get a nice surface for primer.
Right now I'm using an abrasive stripping wheel on a drill to remove them, then using a palm sander to even out any sketchy spots. It's very slow work, but isn't all prep?
Is there a better (faster) way to strip this thing down, and is it ok for me to strip the hood and fenders down to the metal like this? I'm afraid to use the wheel on the bumper cover out of fear that it'll just melt it, and eff up my surface. What can I do to strip the urethane?
I'll leave you with some photos of my work so far. This is about an hour's worth of sanding...
Thanks in advance.
-Jason


i have this stuff at my local parts store called aircraft remover its an industrial grade paint stripper comes in a spray can it will take it to bare metal in no time and when i say no time let it sit for 45 sec. to a min then just wipe it or spray it off
I DO have some aircraft stripper that I purchased to redo my wheels, but my concern of using it on the car is having it exposed to parts other than the metal of the hood and fenders. Any idea how this stuff would affect rubber splash guards, tires, or urethane from the bumper cover?
plastic it wont hurt my only concern would be rubber i would cover your tires in plastic bags or something similar are you stripping the whole car or just the front clip ?
Just stripping the front clip. I suppose i could try it on my lip and a junk tire first. Is it like a gel, or will it run like a liquid?
Be prepared to feather edge all the surfaces you have worked on. The millage between layers will show through your new top coats. Better feather edge and build up a few thick layers of primer (2K) then block out the panels with some black as a guide coat
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your wrong the rubber wont be effected the plastic will melt or warp if you use air craft remover........ for the bumper you can buy a paint stripper for plastic but if you leave it on for to long it will eventually act the same as air craft remover
Thanks for the input guys.
It seems way too difficult to strip off just the rattle can paint, which is why I'm stripping down to the metal. Would it be worth my while to buy a belt sander or something to take off the top layers so I'm not spending all this time going down to the metal with a tiny stripping wheel?
I'll have to look around for the paint stripper for plastic. Just spray, sit, and scrape?
It seems way too difficult to strip off just the rattle can paint, which is why I'm stripping down to the metal. Would it be worth my while to buy a belt sander or something to take off the top layers so I'm not spending all this time going down to the metal with a tiny stripping wheel?
I'll have to look around for the paint stripper for plastic. Just spray, sit, and scrape?
K its called URETHANE BUMPER STRIPPER- part # 39913 and its a aersol
And heres a link
http://www.azautobodysupply.com/sem39bust17a.html
I've used it on my build and love it
Definitely go with the stripper on most of the car. It will save you loads of time. As for protecting any other materials keep them wet with water. Also keep a wet rag and bucket near by. Basically the chemical stripper is easily neutralized by water, which is why it does not work well in humid conditions. If you get the stripper on anything you don't want ruined, make sure it is wet before starting to strip, and wipe it away immediately.
Thanks again. I've called Advance Auto, Autozone, Napa and O'reillys, and O'reillys is the only one who stocks a paint stripper for bumpers. It's "Flexible bumper stripper" by Klean-strip...
http://www.wmbarr.com/product.aspx?catid=1&prodid=45
Anyone have experience with this product? I need to get this car prepped by the up coming weekend, so I don't really have time to order something online.
http://www.wmbarr.com/product.aspx?catid=1&prodid=45
Anyone have experience with this product? I need to get this car prepped by the up coming weekend, so I don't really have time to order something online.
The car had a Maaco job on the front when i bought it cause it came from up north. Sand and debris from 20,000 miles of road trips chipped it all to hell. I sprayed it to keep the rock chips from rusting over, but now i need to strip this crap off so i can paint it correctly.
you did some hardcore sanding with the wheel. Make sure you use some good filler primer or the height differnece between the OEM paint and where you ground down the paint will be huge once it's painted.
Persnally i would have just wetsanded it with some 320 until the rattle can paint was gone and stopped at the factory primer.
Pete went a little crazy with an orbital sander on his delsol and had the same problem...had some flat spots. I think the paint shop charged him extra because of it.
Persnally i would have just wetsanded it with some 320 until the rattle can paint was gone and stopped at the factory primer.
Pete went a little crazy with an orbital sander on his delsol and had the same problem...had some flat spots. I think the paint shop charged him extra because of it.
you did some hardcore sanding with the wheel. Make sure you use some good filler primer or the height differnece between the OEM paint and where you ground down the paint will be huge once it's painted.
Persnally i would have just wetsanded it with some 320 until the rattle can paint was gone and stopped at the factory primer.
Pete went a little crazy with an orbital sander on his delsol and had the same problem...had some flat spots. I think the paint shop charged him extra because of it.
Persnally i would have just wetsanded it with some 320 until the rattle can paint was gone and stopped at the factory primer.
Pete went a little crazy with an orbital sander on his delsol and had the same problem...had some flat spots. I think the paint shop charged him extra because of it.
I felt I didn't have an option after 60 and 80 grit wouldn't even get through the spray paint...
I picked up some good 180 grit from the local body shop supply store that I'll try wetsanding with tonight. I also picked up a spray can of etching primer to prep the bare metal areas. I'll post up my results.
I picked up some good 180 grit from the local body shop supply store that I'll try wetsanding with tonight. I also picked up a spray can of etching primer to prep the bare metal areas. I'll post up my results.
Thanks for all the input. I painted the car today, and it came out great.
Gonna let it chill in the garage for a few days before I start wet-sanding a spot where the clear ran a bit.
From this...

To this...

To this...
Gonna let it chill in the garage for a few days before I start wet-sanding a spot where the clear ran a bit.From this...

To this...

To this...
Last edited by AFAccord; Feb 7, 2009 at 04:19 PM.
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