for a 94 integra lowered on H&R sport springs. should I shell out the extra cash to get the a-arms with castor adjustment. the a-arms suggested to me are made by Specialty Suspension, & they have camber and castor adjustability, but they are also $400 for both sides, while the skunk 2 adjustable a-arms are 200 for the front (but only have a camber adjustment)


also for anyone in the denve/westminster/arvada CO area, i found a place that can do alignments on pretty much any lowered car. & his prices are very reasonable. $45 for the whole alignment & $60 to install the front camber kit (which i could prolly do)

 

ttt

 

Unless you're lowered more than 2.5", all you need is to have the shop align the toe. In Hondas, toe wears tires more than camber does, up to 2.5" drop. Any more than that, and camber is an issue, and in that case, I'd just remove the upper control arm bolts that hold it to the shock tower, and just take a Dremel and elongate the holes... Works on my buddie's FD3 road race car...

 

Unless you know exactly what you're doing with your castor, don't spend the extra $$$ to get adjustable castor. I don't even think your castor changes when you lower the car. Remember, castor affects how much camber increases as you turn the steering wheel. Confused? IMHO save castor adjustment for the race boys, save your tires and get the camber kit.

 

fo rthe front, how about this??

http://www.specprod.com/PROD_DIR/C_P...=67135&cmd3=62

or this

http://www.specprod.com/PROD_DIR/C_P...=67330&cmd3=62

& for the rear


http://www.specprod.com/PROD_DIR/C_P...=67030&cmd3=57

and

http://www.specprod.com/PROD_DIR/C_P...=69200&cmd3=57

 

Dont waste your money on castor adjustment. Camber and toe and important. You ca do without caster adjustability. Its definetly not worth $400.

 

i am sorry, i know about SPC for a while now, but i don't see anything about castor on the application chart. that a new product? you know on the double wishbone suspension like honda/acura has, the castor is adjusted by the lower control arm, in EF/ED series thru the radius rod bushings and in DC/EK/EG series thru the lower arm bushnings.
these guys have a kit, for your car, or for EF/ED, these guys. castor is important, as it dictates the turn-in carachteristics of the car. more postive castor, more the car pushes in the turn. but with a price of high speed stability. ever notice how much positive castor high performance cars have? on EF/ED you can also shorten the radius rod to get more positive castor. i am planning to go with about 4-4.5 of positive castor on my car.
stan

 

yea, i couldnt find it on the website either. but the guy at the alignment place showed me a SPC brochure, & it had the a-arms with camber & castor adjustability

so what should i get to be able to adjust the toe

 

anyone look at the links above?? opinions?

 

Get the Skunks- they will be more durable and easier to adjust. If you are dropped 2.5" I would definitely get adjustable camber arms (especially for the rear). Caster is really only a problem if it is different from side to side .75-1.00 degrees. A cross camber difference of 0.5 degree or more will cause a pull to the side with more negative camber. I would try to keep front camber around 1.0-1.5 degrees for regualr driving.

 

skunks have the tendency to slip causing major camber problems. tow is adjusteble from the factory, no aftermarket parts needed. in my opinion having a castor adjustebility is a nice addition to camber and toe functions. i would get the arms with castor/camber.
stan