EF b16 starting issue...Yes I'm stumped.
Hello all,
Well, unfortunately I have a problem with my car not starting. Usually I am fortunate enough to find a solution through either h-t or others, haynes/chilton or bugging the **** out of my friends for help. Well, none of the above have worked, so I am now at a dead end. My car is a 1991 Civic Dx hatchback with a b16 swap. The swap was done about two years ago and the car ran fine for about a week.(the wheel bearings were bad and I didn't have the time or money to work on it) The car was then parked for two years till about a week ago, when I first started trying to get it running. The car has an obd-1 conversion as well as mpfi conversion. The injectors are high impedence, thus no resistor box is in play. The ecu is a chipped p06, basically converted to p30, looked inside and it is a clean solder job.The only code it throws is a code 20 (ELD, and the car ran fine before with this code...) When I spray starting fluid in the mani, the motor fires up instantly. I know im getting spark, the plugs are almost brand new, the WHOLE distributor was replaced with a BRAND new unit from dist king, and I have checked the wiring for the dist twice. The timing is correct, checked it three times. the fuel pump primes when the key is turned, there is fuel coming out of the filter, and out of the fuel rail, i have tested both the injectors and the injector connectors with a multi-meter, and both check out ok, I have also swapped out two sets of injectors, no luck. HOWEVER, when I pulled the rail off with injectors and tried to start it, they did NOT spray, so I assume that this is my problem. I HAVE NOT looked at the main relay yet, because it is my understanding that if the ecu is getting power, and can send a signal to the injectors, then the relay is fine. It also clicks when turning the key to the on and run positions.
What is going on here? I am baffled...I haven't tried a compression check, but I don't believe that is relevant right now. Could both sets of injectors be clogged? Is it possible that there isn't a "big enough" signal going to the injectors from the ecu? Could the main relay send power to the ecu and fuel pump but not injectors!? Possible I am a noob with the m/m and not reading it correctly?! dot dot dot
Cliff notes: 91 hatch with b16 and obd-1 conversion wont start, used to run two years ago.
I've tried:
1. ECU (looked inside, clean solder job, car runs with starting fluid.)
-throws only code 20 (ELD, used to run fine with that code before)
-tried two different ecus, same result with each.
2. Timing (it is correct, checked it three times.)
3. Spark (brand new dist from dist. king...also runs with starting fluid)
4. Battery (brand new optima, fully charged.)
5. Wiring (ran fine two years ago...)
-also checked all grounds, they're good
6. Fuses (all good, even under dash ones)
7. Fuel
-Gas is new, from last week
-pump primes
-fuel coming out of both filter and rail
-tried three sets of injectors
-injectors read around 16ohms with multi-meter (no resistor box in play)
-injector clips get signal, noid light flashes when cranked
Well, unfortunately I have a problem with my car not starting. Usually I am fortunate enough to find a solution through either h-t or others, haynes/chilton or bugging the **** out of my friends for help. Well, none of the above have worked, so I am now at a dead end. My car is a 1991 Civic Dx hatchback with a b16 swap. The swap was done about two years ago and the car ran fine for about a week.(the wheel bearings were bad and I didn't have the time or money to work on it) The car was then parked for two years till about a week ago, when I first started trying to get it running. The car has an obd-1 conversion as well as mpfi conversion. The injectors are high impedence, thus no resistor box is in play. The ecu is a chipped p06, basically converted to p30, looked inside and it is a clean solder job.The only code it throws is a code 20 (ELD, and the car ran fine before with this code...) When I spray starting fluid in the mani, the motor fires up instantly. I know im getting spark, the plugs are almost brand new, the WHOLE distributor was replaced with a BRAND new unit from dist king, and I have checked the wiring for the dist twice. The timing is correct, checked it three times. the fuel pump primes when the key is turned, there is fuel coming out of the filter, and out of the fuel rail, i have tested both the injectors and the injector connectors with a multi-meter, and both check out ok, I have also swapped out two sets of injectors, no luck. HOWEVER, when I pulled the rail off with injectors and tried to start it, they did NOT spray, so I assume that this is my problem. I HAVE NOT looked at the main relay yet, because it is my understanding that if the ecu is getting power, and can send a signal to the injectors, then the relay is fine. It also clicks when turning the key to the on and run positions.
What is going on here? I am baffled...I haven't tried a compression check, but I don't believe that is relevant right now. Could both sets of injectors be clogged? Is it possible that there isn't a "big enough" signal going to the injectors from the ecu? Could the main relay send power to the ecu and fuel pump but not injectors!? Possible I am a noob with the m/m and not reading it correctly?! dot dot dot
Cliff notes: 91 hatch with b16 and obd-1 conversion wont start, used to run two years ago.
I've tried:
1. ECU (looked inside, clean solder job, car runs with starting fluid.)
-throws only code 20 (ELD, used to run fine with that code before)
-tried two different ecus, same result with each.
2. Timing (it is correct, checked it three times.)
3. Spark (brand new dist from dist. king...also runs with starting fluid)
4. Battery (brand new optima, fully charged.)
5. Wiring (ran fine two years ago...)
-also checked all grounds, they're good
6. Fuses (all good, even under dash ones)
7. Fuel
-Gas is new, from last week
-pump primes
-fuel coming out of both filter and rail
-tried three sets of injectors
-injectors read around 16ohms with multi-meter (no resistor box in play)
-injector clips get signal, noid light flashes when cranked
Last edited by elf; Feb 18, 2009 at 12:17 PM.
If there is something wrong with the wiring, would i still get a signal on the injector clip with the key turned? Or should I have someone crank the car when im checking the voltage?
The gas is like no more then a week old...when the car was sitting i drained all the fuel out of the tank
The gas is like no more then a week old...when the car was sitting i drained all the fuel out of the tank
update: working on the car all morning and have found one injector that fires, switched it with another on the rail and it still works. Gonna try some diff injectors today...
That's what i would have done. When i did my motor swap they said everything was running fine. The motor had been pulled a week ago. I went to start it. It would crank but thats its. Replaced my injectors with the old one's she fired right up.
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u said u were getting spark for sure? or were u just assuming u were getting spark becuase the dizzy, ignitor, and coil were new? new electric parts sumtimes fail. but other than that, i would check the injectors as u were planning. and maybe the ecu could be bad???
yeah, i pulled every spark plug out and did the "valve cover trick" they all spark...
i came back today from the junk yard, turned it over, and looked like there was a little bit of fuel where the injectors were (rail was still loose with injectors plugged in). now when i try to start it its like it is starting but only faintly...like there is maybe a little bit of gas getting to the combustion chambers but not enough...
Is is possible that after sitting for over two years that some condensation/water has accumulated in the fuel lines/tank etc? Maybe I'll add some more gas with some iso-heet to it...
i came back today from the junk yard, turned it over, and looked like there was a little bit of fuel where the injectors were (rail was still loose with injectors plugged in). now when i try to start it its like it is starting but only faintly...like there is maybe a little bit of gas getting to the combustion chambers but not enough...
Is is possible that after sitting for over two years that some condensation/water has accumulated in the fuel lines/tank etc? Maybe I'll add some more gas with some iso-heet to it...
Get a NOID light and check for injector pulse at the connector. If it blinks your good.
When you drained the tank you did not drain the lines, rail, or filter. The fuel could have varnished in any of it causing it to plug up. Check your fuel pressure.
Finally, if the pressure is good, and the injectors are getting signal, it is probably your injectors so you can do a simple injector flow test, all you need is a spare injector clip, a momentary switch, and some wire.
When you drained the tank you did not drain the lines, rail, or filter. The fuel could have varnished in any of it causing it to plug up. Check your fuel pressure.
Finally, if the pressure is good, and the injectors are getting signal, it is probably your injectors so you can do a simple injector flow test, all you need is a spare injector clip, a momentary switch, and some wire.
update...got a noid light, all injectors are receiving signal. Switched out a new set of injectors, NOW THREE SETS. Got a fuel pressure guage, hooked it up to the return line and got no reading?? car started and ran fine a few days ago, however no luck since. have also tried two different ecus, no luck with either. When the car ran it threw codes 4, 7 and 10. Ten is cleared cause the iat wasnt hooked up. 7 is cleared cause i checked tps with a muilt meter. .5v closed and 4.9 at WOT.
Car now tries to start but sounds like crap. backfires occasionally and even fires out the T/B. CODE 4?! WTF? could this brand new dizzy be bad? any input would be great!
Car now tries to start but sounds like crap. backfires occasionally and even fires out the T/B. CODE 4?! WTF? could this brand new dizzy be bad? any input would be great!
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