will these tires last?
note: i have to run a few more days like this before i can get an alignment... if that would even HELP this situation anyways.
ok so i'm waiting so i can get some cash and these tires are wearing WAY faster they i anticipated... must have to do w/ a lot of taking the wheels off and adjusting height, taking wheel off is the main culprit? cuzmy fronts never toe in when i adjust them w/o taking them off
my TOE must be complete **** for it to happen so quick
im runnign 2 washers behind each bolt in the rear so the camber isnt too bad, after all... toe is the main killer of tires right?
aite here it is
- my rear tires on the inside they are being worn, VERY VERY close to being bald and smoothed out right now...
- i also have wear on the outside but that should NOT matter at all since it was there when i got the wheels from the other owner.
- the middle area and the tread region next to the balding region has good tread left...
are they salvageable? i really don't want to pay for new tires and just go w/ an alignment if possible...
pics update




ok so i'm waiting so i can get some cash and these tires are wearing WAY faster they i anticipated... must have to do w/ a lot of taking the wheels off and adjusting height, taking wheel off is the main culprit? cuzmy fronts never toe in when i adjust them w/o taking them off
my TOE must be complete **** for it to happen so quick
im runnign 2 washers behind each bolt in the rear so the camber isnt too bad, after all... toe is the main killer of tires right?
aite here it is
- my rear tires on the inside they are being worn, VERY VERY close to being bald and smoothed out right now...
- i also have wear on the outside but that should NOT matter at all since it was there when i got the wheels from the other owner.
- the middle area and the tread region next to the balding region has good tread left...
are they salvageable? i really don't want to pay for new tires and just go w/ an alignment if possible...
pics update




Last edited by PowerLeg; Jan 24, 2009 at 04:07 PM.
^ nah man i was cambering even more and lowered even more w/ my old wheels...
im on 16s now which means i need less lowering to tuck
and i was tucking HALF a tire all around on my 15s
i had it aligned and had 0 camber wear it was withen oem specs with the camber bolt trick too
anyways pics update




im on 16s now which means i need less lowering to tuck
and i was tucking HALF a tire all around on my 15s
i had it aligned and had 0 camber wear it was withen oem specs with the camber bolt trick too
anyways pics update




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Yup. Don't worry about a few days or even a few weeks. Just get the alignment done.
Incidentally, it's not always easy to see just how much tread is left on tires from a front-on view. I'm not criticizing your photos, it's just hard to tell the tread depth. If you can, it's usually easier to figure out by actually measuring the depth of the tread. It's normally stated in 32nds of an inch.
Most street tires come with 10/32" to 12/32" of tread depth when new. All street-legal tires sold in the United States come with "treadwear indicator bars" molded into the tread at a tread depth of 2/32". These are strips going across the width of the tread, about half an inch wide each, that are shallower (by 2/32") and can be used to tell you when you MUST (by law) replace your tires. When these strips are flat all the way across the tire, that means the tire is worn down to a depth of 2/32", and they're no longer street legal. It's up to you whether to replace the tires before that point, or to wait until then. The Tire Rack recently did a study and found that, compared to new tires with full tread depth, wet braking distances increase by 50 percent at a tread depth of 4/32", and double at a tread depth of 2/32", so they are suggesting that if rain traction is important, to consider replacing tires at 4/32" instead of 2/32". Again, it's entirely your decision (other than having at least the 2/32" required by law).
In your first photo, you can see the treadwear indicator bar on the tire, near the bottom (about 80-90 percent of the way from the top to the bottom). It looks like you are nowhere near the point where the treadwear bar is flat across. So you don't need to replace your tires yet (by law, anyway).
If, even after doing the alignment, you expect that your tires are going to continue to wear more on the inside edge than the rest of the tread, then as the above poster recommended, you can have the tires "flipped" on the rim about halfway through their life, so that the more worn edge becomes the outside edge. Note that these tires are "directional", meaning they are designed to turn a certain way on the car; they need to be mounted so that they rotate in the proper direction, with two tires mounted for the left side of the car, and two tires mounted for the right side of the car.
Incidentally, it's not always easy to see just how much tread is left on tires from a front-on view. I'm not criticizing your photos, it's just hard to tell the tread depth. If you can, it's usually easier to figure out by actually measuring the depth of the tread. It's normally stated in 32nds of an inch.
Most street tires come with 10/32" to 12/32" of tread depth when new. All street-legal tires sold in the United States come with "treadwear indicator bars" molded into the tread at a tread depth of 2/32". These are strips going across the width of the tread, about half an inch wide each, that are shallower (by 2/32") and can be used to tell you when you MUST (by law) replace your tires. When these strips are flat all the way across the tire, that means the tire is worn down to a depth of 2/32", and they're no longer street legal. It's up to you whether to replace the tires before that point, or to wait until then. The Tire Rack recently did a study and found that, compared to new tires with full tread depth, wet braking distances increase by 50 percent at a tread depth of 4/32", and double at a tread depth of 2/32", so they are suggesting that if rain traction is important, to consider replacing tires at 4/32" instead of 2/32". Again, it's entirely your decision (other than having at least the 2/32" required by law).
In your first photo, you can see the treadwear indicator bar on the tire, near the bottom (about 80-90 percent of the way from the top to the bottom). It looks like you are nowhere near the point where the treadwear bar is flat across. So you don't need to replace your tires yet (by law, anyway).
If, even after doing the alignment, you expect that your tires are going to continue to wear more on the inside edge than the rest of the tread, then as the above poster recommended, you can have the tires "flipped" on the rim about halfway through their life, so that the more worn edge becomes the outside edge. Note that these tires are "directional", meaning they are designed to turn a certain way on the car; they need to be mounted so that they rotate in the proper direction, with two tires mounted for the left side of the car, and two tires mounted for the right side of the car.
^ very detailed 
i see the wear bar, never realized what that was.
well as of now the massively higher tread wheels are in the front as it is.
i'll try to get an alignment on monday if i have an open appointment.
thanks all

i see the wear bar, never realized what that was.
well as of now the massively higher tread wheels are in the front as it is.
i'll try to get an alignment on monday if i have an open appointment.
thanks all
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