Hi All,

I have a 98 GSR with a number of NA mods (skunk intake, toda b-spec, DPR stage 6 head, blah, blah, blah.) Over the past month or so it has had a starting problem. It seems to be more pronounced in colder weather but today is fairly warm and it still won't start. It cranks and catches a tiny bit occasionally but never really comes close to starting. Previously if I pumped the gas pedal enough it would eventually start and would then run pretty well except for the occasional stall at idle. On the highway it was fine and seemed to get normal gas mileage.

So far I have replaced the plugs, wires, IAC, fuel pump, main relay and coolant temp sensor with no results. I also have multiple ECUs (one stock program, one b-spec program) but swapping makes no difference. I seem to be getting spark and fuel but it just won't catch. Starting fluid makes no difference. No codes are thrown. I guess I will try a fuel filter next but I am starting to lose hope.

Can anyone think of anything else to try?

Thanks.

 

What do the spark plugs look like? Does the car stall at idle when it is completely warm?

The fuel filter seems reasonable. Do you have access to a fuel pressure gauge?

 

When I removed the old plugs they looked fine. I replaced them anyway. I haven't looked at the new ones but they've only been in there for a few hundred miles. I have an under-hood fuel pressure gauge and it appears to read normally.

Once the car is warmed up it doesn't really stall. It will occasionally but I've always had a sub-optimal idle with the B-Specs. I've never had a starting issue before this winter, though.

I guess I'll try the fuel filter tomorrow and if that doesn't help I'll pick up a compression tester and make sure that checks out.

 

If the fuel pressure is normal, the fuel filter is not at fault for starting. Have you run a compression test?

 

No, I don't have a compression tester but it looks like I'll be picking one up

Could low compression cause these symptoms?

 

compression test and check the timing marks on the cam gears and crank pulley. if you have fuel and spark the chances are good either the timing belt jumped or you have major problems in the motor.

 

Had same problem in b20 when i installed skunk2 manifold. Check for leaks.

 

What kind of leaks? I've had the Skunk mani for years with no issues. It's entirely possible there's some shady hoses under the hood, though.

 

Well, looks like I'm screwed and a rebuilt is in order.

I did the compression test yesterday. Of course I had to do it cold since the car won't start. Results were as follows:

Dry:
4: 58
3: 50
2: 70
1: 80

Wet (only tested best and worse)
4: 110
1: 135

So it looks like the difference between wet and dry is 55 psi... clearly implicating rings. The process now starts of a finding a shop capable of doing the rebuild. At the same time I might as well do the timing belt, water pump, oil pump, clutch/pp/flywheel.

My plan is to go back to the stock head and cams and sell off the performance parts to offset the cost.

 

Those are some pretty low numbers, your car didn't show obvious signs of burning oil?

 

wow those numbers are reallllllly low...

 

Dang, are you sure you did the compression test correctly? Did you pull the EFI fuse, and hold the throttle open while cranking the engine over?

 

The car leaked some oil so I was always replacing oil... I didn't notice any smoking, though. Certainly no blue smoke.

I have a 7-quart capacity with the Moroso oil pan so sometimes it's a little tough to tell exactly how much oil I was losing.

Now I have to decide if I want to deal with resurrecting the car or just part it out/sell it. I've also have a 350Z so I really need a commuter/winter car more than something high performance. :-/

 

oh haha you don't need a teg... sell and get a CR-V for snow use.

 

Actually, not really. We just pulled all the plugs, screwed the tester into each one and cranked. I didn't have the throttle open (no mention in compression tester instructions.) I could try it again... but doesn't the discrepancy between the wet and dry numbers mean I need a ring-job regardless?

 

The Teg is a beast with snow tires all-around, believe it or not.

 

YIKES man so you cranked the engine over with the injectors pumping fuel into the cylinders??? Engine is probably flooded now. You have to crank it with the EFI fuse pulled so that no fuel gets pumped into the cylinders while checking.

 

Well, I've been cranking it for a week trying to get the damn thing to start so cranking it a little more didn't seem like a big deal. Does having the fuel injectors active change the reading?