OK, I've know that I've got to replace the FITV, or clean it. When I cover the lower vacuum hole in the throttle body my idle returns to normal.

I've got a '95 GS-R.

I've looked at the excellent thread copied to many forums:

http://www.team-integra.net/sections...ArticleID=1167

But, I can't get to the back bolt to unscrew it! There's that hose that you can see at the bottom of the picture on the first page. I've tried every offset wrench and other tricks I could think of, but that hose, which is connected to a pipe, is in the way. And everybody that's talked about removing their FITV, doesn't seem to mention any problems removing it. What the heck am I doing wrong! I'm doing it from the top of the engine, it doesn't look like you can do it from underneath.

Thanks guys!

 

Take the throttle body off and stick it in a vice. U might have to pry the fitv off. Clean it and tighten the plastic float at the end under the plate. Make sure to get a new tb gasket and fitv gasket or use gasket maker

 

I thought about that. To remove the TB, it's just those two bolts in front, right? Anything else to worry about?

Or, looking at the service manual, it appears there are two bolts, two nuts, two ECU plugs, throttle cable, and two hoses. Sound right?

 

I always took it off while its still on the car. Never had to take the TB off. Remove intake and use a small ratchet with extension and its off. I guess taking off the TB will work too, just more stuff to take off and possibly need to replace the TB gasket as well.

 

i've have always taken it off while its on the car too. for the hose to come off, i spray a little WD40 on it, and pry it a little with a flathead just so the wd40 can work its magic on it, and then you just slide it off with a needle nose.

 

Yeah you should be able to take it off by it self.

 

yeah me too, jsut sometimes its a bitc.h

 

Ok, decided to just take the trottle body off. Piece of cake. Two the bolts for FITV came off easy. But the one that has the hose clip/support on it is frozen and I pretty much stripped the head of the bolt.

Anybody have any suggestions? It still has some ridges to it, but i've tried vise grips, channel locks, etc. Somebody mentioned pounding a socket onto it that's slightly too small (maybe 9mm or 3/8ths) and try to get it off...I'll have to get a new bolt of course, are these Acura/Honda specific, or can I get one at Home Depot or whatever?

 

soak it in pb blaster, then tap on head hard enough to move the threads. heat is probably bad for that app, inside part being wax, etc. did you clamp in it a vise to hold it still, hepls alot sometimes. if you can cool the steel bolt while in a vise with some computer duster or the CRC equivalent, then try a mini propane tool with a narrow flame on the aluminum very quickly before the heat can spread and the differences in expansion rates could help. the steel will take longer to return to normal tha the Al, and give you enought time to do it. but you will have to assess the risk of such attempt. try the soak first or try some hot water. there are may ideas on the net and tons of info out there -- tribology.

the metric selection at home centers is very limited. i found more in hardware stores or McMaster-Carr (never bought a thing yet though, too high on shipping). nah, go to

 

Well, I brought it to the shop and we ended up having to cut the head of the bolt off, then we just twisted the FITV ccw and "unscrewed" the bolt. It ended up being frozen inside the FITV, even though there are no threads in there.

Then, went to the wrecking yard (H-Honda in Westminster, CA) who said they had a used one for $35. When I got there, it turns out it was for another car. Not sure which car...the FITV looks identical, but the coolant inlet was at a different angle. I was hesitant to try it...also because it didn't have the o-rings, which were ruined in the process of taking it off. Called a few local dealers (did you guys know their computers are all connected for inventory?) and nobody had one. They could get it in a day, but I needed it today. And they all wanted $100-130 for it.

Luckily, Mark DiBella at MB Automotive had a used one from a JDM engine, gave it to me for $35 and all works fine. He's a great guy. He's the former head mechanic for Jackson Racing. Worked on their racing team in the 80's and 90's. Then, when Jackson Racing was sold to Moss Motors, he bought Jackson's retail repair shop and has been operating it since.

If there's a guy who knows Honda's and Acura's inside and out it's him.

MD Automotive Repair Honda Acura Miata Mini Cooper
MD Automotive - Honda Acura Toyota Auto Repair Westminster California
www.markdibella.com
7281 Westminster Blvd.
Westminster, CA 92683
(714) 891-1113