Problem: idle goes up and down 1k-3krpms...then bogs and dies upon acceleration.

Ive searched and read for solutions like a vacuum leak or air bubbles in my coolant, tps and map are plugged in where they should be (i did have them reversed initially)

for reference im using my stock 3 wire y7 tb and original injectors/ecu (00 cx) Coolant lines to tb have been bypassed also (so cal weather)

some help guys

 

did you put a new intake mani gasket on? take some starter fluid and spray it around the IM gasket, while it's idling, and listen to see if it changes ur idle, if so you have a leaky gasket...

You don't have a Check engine light on do you?

It sounds kinda like the prob I had with my d15b, but you said you bypassed the coolant for the tb so I dunno if that would be it. What I did to fix my prob is: there was a plate on the back of the tb on the bottom. I think the coolant flowed through it. I took the two screws off the plate and screwed that white plastic thing in. It took two flat head screwdrivers(simultaneously) to tighten it up...

 

which TB gasket did you use? i found that to be my problem after going down the list of everything else it could be. if i remember correctly you have to use the Y7 gasket.

 

im almost certain i used a y7 tb gasket...any other ideas. Should I have used different injectors?

 

Which IACV (idle air contrl valve) are you using? The y7 has a three wire and the y8 uses a 2 wire?

 

3 wire

 

First you install a IACV on the back of the y8 manifold? The y8 has the IACV on the back right after the throttle body and the y7 uses a IACV in a different spot. This is probably causing part of your issues. I had the same issue with the car not idling ight but I also had my tps and map sensor plugs swapped and the car would start but as soon as any throttle was applied the car would die. The plugs are the same so I would check that too. Hope this helps

 

i have that blocked off since im using the IACV on the tb(coulda sworn that was ok from what i read here on ht) ??/

 

fyi, im also using the y8 mani with the air injection holes on the flange(theyve been pluggd)

 

I know you said that so cal weather but why did you bypass the collant lines? they are what makes the iacv work. Without the collant lines I would assume that the valve is staying closed maybe causing a problem. Cause if you have the port on the back of the y8 manifold where the IACV issupposed to go covered and then you are using the original y7 IACV but the collant lines are bypassed then its not even going to be able to function correctly. I'm thinking of anything that it could be

 

i had a problem like that when upgrading to a skunk 2 mani. turned out to be a very small vaccum leak. to much air and not enuf gas thats why mine reved up and down and cut out. also check were the throttle body meets the mani, make sure the gasket is good and dont use any sealant around it,and make sure the fuel pressure regulator is plugged into the mani since you say u have holes block up

 

thanks for the help, any more ideas

 

The coolant lines going to the IACV have NOTHING to do with the operation of it. In this case, the OP lives in socal and does not have cold enough weather to need the coolant lines connected. The lines are usually connected in colder climates to keep the IACV from freezing up. If you look here: http://www.superhonda.com/forum/f94/...r-iacv-144463/ you'll see that the coolant lines basically just lead to a wall, they're only there to keep the valve warm in the winter.

 

what tb gasket am i supposed to use, y7 or y8...im using a y7 tb atm