These are the steps that I did to test the alternator. First I used a multimeter.

Multimeter to battery with car off-12.4v
Multimeter to battery with car on-14.x v
Multimeter to battery with car cranking-10.4v

Battery fuse is OK
I could not locate a "Alternator SP fuse"
Repair manual states to check fuse #24 inside the cabin fuse box. They're not labeled by number/ Which one is that?

Took to Autozone, they tested nothing coming from the alternator.
Took to Pepboyz, they tested nothing coming from the alternator.
They both told me that it's probably a bad alternator, but cannot say for sure unless I take it out of the car.

Please help, my car will not start without a jump, lights dim, blower motor works faster when revving, idle drops to 200RPM rarely. TIA.

 

That would indicate that the alternator is charging the battery......

 

Yo buddy,

You are not alone, I have the blower motor dulling out when I hit neutral, but I don't have a starting issue. Lights dim also. Keep me posted man.

 

OK, but that is measuring voltage. With the machine they use, they said it tests amperage. Also, they tested wile it was at 2K RPMS. At least I'm not alone, but I really need to get this fixed ASAP without wasting money on an alternator if I don't need it. Please keep the responses coming.

 

bump

 

check out the VRM voltage regulator module, you will probably have to take out the alt to test it, I believe it tells you how to test it in the helms or you could just search VRM on here. also what problem are you having I would expect the voltage to go down when the alternator is not charging before the car actually gets started, starters spining

gl

 

heres something simple you can do. loosen up your positive side of the battery and start your car. or jump start it and let it run. Once its running pull the positive connection to the battery and if your car dies then your alternator is bad. hope this helps

 

Sounds easy, but can anyone verify that this is true? Sounds a little dangerous lol.

 

The problem that I am having is that the car does not start. At idle, it drops down to about 200RPM randomly at lights, but otherwise it sits perfectly at 750ish RPM. Lights dim, blower motor speeds up when throttling, and instrument cluster dims. This also witht he head unit off and instrument cluster light as dim as possible. Battery charged at Pepboys and tested good.

 

Have you checked all grounds to the motor and battery, The alternator has nonething to do with starting the car. Its only function is to proved a source to charge the battery once the car is running and to provide current to run the elcectronic in the car. If you are having starting issues. I would look into the battery and battery teminals and grounds. Also does the car start okay when the battery was charged from pepboys?

 

its not...if your alternator is bad your car will just die

 

-I recently replaced all of the engine grounds and actually looped them together with new wire and terminals.
-Battery was tested at PepBoys after beiing charged and tested fine~car started fine at that point. Battery terminals and battery ground were replaced anyway cause I was bored lol.

The battery keeps dying very quickly after a full charge.

 

I had an alternator failure but mine was OVER charging... I just so happened to pop my hood after smelling a rotten-egg odor and snoop around to find my battery caps were popped and the liquid in my battery was boiling. My SRS light had been on for 2 days and my head lights were both blown (volt meter test showed it charging at 16.8 V). Replaced the alternator with a junk yard one, but now my dash lights and blower motor dim when I'm at idle.

Bad alternator again? This time under charging?

 

Probably a bad alternator if it was sitting at a junk yard with a lot of mileage on it, plus any rust that could build up over time.

 

bump

 

From what you said when the car is running the alt is charging 14.X which is good. Like said before start your car while its running disconnect the battery. If it dies then then your alt is bad. The voltage of 10.4 during cranking seems low. You said the battery tested good. If you battery keeps going dead check for a parasitic draw (like a light staying on, radio wired up wrong). Wait about 15-20 mins after you last open or shut your door before you test. Disconnect the positive battery put a DMM (multimeter) between the battery cable and the battery and check for an AMP draw. It should be less than 35 milliamps. If its more than you have a draw. Do that and post back up, i can run ya threw how to find the draw. Bill

 

No it had less than 150,000 Kms on it. Looked immaculate, not a scratch or spec of dirt. I removed it myself, so I know the car was legit. I can't figure it out, maybe I just have a nack for bad alternators. In either case, I think I need another one.