Im going to re ring and install new wrist pins in my engine. Its a race only engine that was assembled in april 08. it ran at 3 or 4 test n tunes, 3 or 4 races, and about 3hrs of dyno time total. Replacing that stuff would be easy if i didn't have to remove the block for a rehone. How long does a hone last, would it be worthless that quick? Golden Eagle HD Sleeves, just wondering, it doesnt matter to me eitherway, easier is better though. It had 700hp.

 

Absolutely you should hone/de-glaze, no need to remove block, a good drill and one of these... http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/FLEX-...QQcmdZViewItem and your there. 94

 

seriously? because i can get that at my local auto parts store.

 

If you can see the cross hatch on the cylinders I would not rehone. Every time you hone you are putting wear on the cylinders. If the cylinders are in good condition I would avoid the honm, if they are not in good condition they need more than a hone.

 

Why are you replacing rings and pins after such a short time? If you had a ring seal problem than a real hone job should be at the top of your list.
It's a Honda.It doesn't take much time to pull it apart and do it correctly.It's hard enough to get a good ring seal without skipping steps.

 

i agree with this.

 

the engine is fine but more like an insurance swap for prevention. The main objective is upgraded wrist pins.

 

does it have a sealing prob with the rings? if it doesn't then mark the position of the rings when you pull it apart so you can put it back together right. if you want to check the rings wear pull them off and check the end gaps for clearance. look all the wear items over real good while its apart too.

 

If it was mine,I would change out the pins and reuse the rings.I would give everything a good cleaning and inspection and put it back together.I'm not a fan of putting new rings on unhoned cylinders.

 

ive thought about that, i have taken an engine apart and reused the rings when putting it back together. It probably would be fine, although it does slightly smoke, but i think its the oil control rings or valve stem seals. I dont now, I have a few weeks to figure out what to do. Ive seen people do the self hone, and i know it can be done, especially when its got hardly any hours on it. Ive put together several high power engines and im no stranger to it, just never done the self hone thing.

 

The second ring does most of the oil control.If it was installed upside down it will use oil.It's designed to scrape the oil off the wall on the down stroke.As long as the bottom ring set is not stuck in the piston it will do it's job.
Back when Nascar was using qualifying engines the engine builders would reuse the ring sets on several rebuilds.They would rehone the blocks but preferred rings with a few heat cycles and already broken in.Money was not the issue.
A flex hone is pretty useless for a piston wall.A few strokes with a ridged hone is the only way to go.
If your not going to really hone the block than just reuse the ring set.

 

Do a leak down to help your decision. If your only leaking < 15% I would personally leave it, thats my opinion. If you have all the time.. go ***** out.

 

im pretty confident that all of the rings are the proper direction. I may just reuse the rings, but like i said, i wont know till i just take it apart lol. The wrist pins and rod bolts are my prime thing to examine and upgrade or replace. this build has been one of the best performers ive ever had, so smooth.

 

Cool and good luck.. make sure you have a machine shop check the Wrist pin to wrist pin boss clearance before reassembling.