i have a 99 prelude type SH and i have a v-tec controller coming in the mail and i was wondering at what RPM should i set my v-tec to engage?

 

idle! lol jk i'd say anywhere from 4-5500k?

 

lol. thatd be funny. yeah i usually have mine around 4500.

 

You need a dyno or a feeling of what a proper engagement should feel like.

 

why? whats wrong with the butt dyno? lol

You shift vtec too far up or too early its going to make your motor fall flat on its face. Dyno would likely be your best bet rather than dyno butt ie. Guessing.

And just because you can shift it to make it feel like its hitting harder doesn't mean that its improving your power band by anymeans. You could just be shifting your power band a bit and just causing a larger spike when vtec engages which is why a dyno is the way to go or that vtec controller isn't seeing its full potential. Should convert to obd1 and tune it too while your at it. For under maybe 500 bucks you could squeeze an extra 20 horses maybe depending on the tuner. Ecu with socket is around 200. Conversion harness is under 100 now I believe, and than the actual tune shouldn't take too long with someone who's tuned stock h22s.

 

get on a dyno. make a pull with VTEC turned OFF. Evaluate the dyno graph. Look where HP starts to peak and fall off, at that point would be a good place to have vtec engage (crack). However you wanna put it.

 

i second the motion to set vtack at idle. otherwise you're not JDM

 

Lol

 

Why can't people just type/say it right; VTEC? Instead of v-tech, vtack ect. Makes me wonder if they really know what it is and what it does.

 

2000 rpm. Be crakin that **** all day dawg

 

Vtec doesnt crack, it engauges into it. If its crackle-lacking, than your ***** broke yo!

 

I have a 92 and a 01 h22a4 and mine engauges at 5200 and i dont think i would want it to change i think its perfect where its at

 

engauges...engages..see what your teaching? They ain't gonna learn to spell if you keep that up!

 

If you're too cheap for a dyno, set it to where it is the least noticeable. The more kick or "crack" you feel, the more power you are losing before the crossover.

 

good post!

dyno is the only failproof option

 

4700rpm on an N/A application is usually a common spot for a modified VTEC engagement point.

Enjoy burning oil!

 

Its people that say dumb a$$ crap like this that give Honda drivers a bad reputation. VTEC does not CRACK. I bet you also want to know whats the most drop you can have with 19 inch wheels too huh?Oh one more, whats the most boost can I run on a stock JDM H22?

 

no i thinkg 19s are too big for an import and i think turbo is a waste of money and i only use the word CRACK as an expression. i also read on here that with the 97-01 preludes with the h22 that you should check your oil 4 times a week. is this really necessary,do the preludes really burn that much oil or is this guy full of ****.

 

there is that better

 

no, there's still a lot of big flaws in your last statement.

btw, modifying cars is a waste of money

 

like what seriously im not trying to be a dick im trying to learn

 

some people seem to forget that there once was a day were we all didnt know ****. honestly a vtec controller isnt the best thing for tuning. how much do they cost these days? $500 sounds about right for real tuning option. but lets just say theres no returns and this is your only option.

i assume your using a real vafc. when changing vtec point, its going to require a fuel change, as will most of the curve for optiom power over stock settings. this will also be dependent on your other mods. you will also require timing curve changes with moving the vtec point for best performance, however this cannot be done with vafc to my knowledge. one of the reasons its not the best. a good way of determing crossover point is to make a pull with vtec at 2000 rpms. then make a pull with it at 6500 rpms. then lay the graphs over each other and where they cross is your starting point. from then on tune out fuel settings and fine tune vtec point.

btw- boost is not a waste of money, its the most power to cost effective road ...but to each their own

 

If you want to be JDM then you set your vee-tech to crack at 1500rpm because its soooooo JDM to hit vtec as you're going around a roundabout. And in answer to how much boost can a stock H22A run, well if its not JDM then you can only run a max of 12psi but if you're driving a JDM then you can run up to 26psi on stock internals

 

you cant just plug and play with a vtec controller you gotta get that **** tuned or if you do **** with it youll probly **** it up. do you have any other mods? if you just hook up a vtec controller your not getting anywere. and you live in PO dont let one of your friends that thinks he knows what hes doing to hook it up youll be sorry

 

actually, you can just play with a VAFC. it really won't hurt anything unless if you set VTEC to 7200 and hold it at redline for 5 minutes. (the stock fuel maps are always rich by a bit) with a VAFC, ill be bold enough to say that improvements can be made on a butt dyno but better use of the money can be made. how bout 100-200$ in professionally instructed seat time? suspension mod? putting away towards a bigger mod ? im saying you don't need to spend that money and its probably something you'll look back on and regret.