i have a 91 accord and now i own another 94 accord and love them. i was looking at another 91 online that has a h22a motor with 5speed trans and p13 ecu with 65k on both. he told me it needs a distributor cap because it is cracked and now it currently doesn't run. he also said before the cap cracked that it idled very rough. i though it would possibly be a timing belt jumping some grooves but he said that was replaced. any ideas on what the problem could be? my other 91 accord idles very rough but i noticed one day when i was messing with it i took the distributor bolts loose and moved the whole assembly and it fixed the idle so i believe the timing is off very slightly on that one. could it be a bad ignition coil? could that be why the distributor cap took a crap from faulty spark? he wants $1000. just trying to see if it is going to be a bigger headache then what its work

 

Well "idling rough" could be a 1000 different things.

You could try the FITV/IACV/TB cleaning thread and that might solve it right away. You may have to raise the idle (if it's below the avg ~800rpm) etc.

It's tough to call without more info than that IMO.

*edit*

To add on to that, with my chipped P28 my car was running like **** due to the original tune before I reflashed it. There's the idle adjustment **** at the top (one of my issues along with the FITV stuff) was the **** was cranked in all the way.

 

ok wheres FITV/IACV/TB cleaning thread and and whats IMO?

 

IMO = In My Opinion

Accord FAQ has all those threads.

 

ok i will definitely try that out. would that be a reason for a rough start or a no starts at all also? what does FITV/IACV/TB stand for anyway?

 

FITV - Fast Idle Thermo Valve
IACV - Idle Air Control Valve
TB - Throttle Body

A rough start or no start could be a fuel system problem or something as simple as low coolant or an ECT (Engine Coolant Temp) sensor problem. Is the CEL (Check Engine Light) on? If it is you should retrieve the codes from the ECU. It could make thsi diagnosis much easier.

 

Before you put any money down, make sure you know what the problem is.
My reasoning?
It could be as simple as a bad ignition wire, a spark plug or as bad as a burned valve or a dead cylinder.
How does it run on the highway?

P

 

He told me the check engine light is on and will be because of the motor swap...is that true?

 

<-- H22 swap no CEL

He's missing something or did something incorrectly

 

^^^x2

Get him to read the codes from the ECU.

 

You don't want to get involved until HE fixes it. Trying to find someone elses mistake on something like this is near impossible unless you're willing to redo the entire wiring process.
IF you've got a daily driver already and are looking for a garage project, maybe this could be a candidate, but expect to spend a good chunk o' money sorting it out.

P