Is this a code 4 or 40??? Its on a d16a6

Im pretty sure its code 4, which is the crank position sensor... now im having problems locating that too... can anyone give me a picture or a REALLY good description of where the CKP sensor is? I thought it was near the dizzy, but after a little research I thought it was on the backside of the block...

 

seems to be a 41 to me

 

its 41...

 

That and a 10.

I see a code 41 and a code 10.

 

dam, ok, ithought that last little blink was indicating the end of the code, didnt realize the short blinks were so short... 41 Primary oxygen sensor heater now how in the hell would I be getting that code...

and theres only one code there i believe, those are two sequences of the same code, it just does the same one over and over again

 

it must be bad if your gettin the code...

 

x2.

 

Moss deff this^.

 

10 and 41

 

I'm sorry but you're quite wrong. I've pulled Honda codes countless times - and if you don't believe me there's a huge group of people either A) Agreeing with me, or B) Stating in their own post that they see two codes, one 10, one 41. As soon as you start the video it flashes the 10, codes go from smallest one you have to largest one you have, then pause for a bit, and keep. They will keep looping and showing the codes as long as the key is on stage II and the jumper is in the data connector. So it's doing a 10 and a 41 over and over.

Now, onto fixing your problem:
You can't buy just an O2 sensor heater...or if you can I've never seen nor heard of it being possible, so you'll need a new O2 sensor, UNLESS It's not actually the O2 sensor that's faulty, but it could be the O2 sensor heater wire that's broken and grounding out somewhere.

As for the code 10, whether you want to believe it is there or not, it is. The code 10 is IAT, intake air temperature sensor, it's located on your air intake, before your throttle body - it's the only one there I believe, a two or 3 wire sensor. Again, the same rules apply, it's either the sensor itself, or the wiring going to the sensor.

I'm sure in a helms manual it can tell you how to check either of them to see if the sensor itself is faulty.

As for checking to make sure they're solid codes and not a one time deal, you can pull the negative terminal on your battery for 10 minutes, and put it back on. If you have the same results, obviously the problem is still there, if not, then it may have been a one time deal.

Good luck.

PS: I'm not sure why I find a metric ****-ton of irony in the concept that you, being a person that's never checked codes before, that can't even tell a code 41 from a 4, is arguing with a few different people (one of which (myself) I know has done this many times before) over the code 10. It's there, I'm sorry.

 

The man speaks the truth.

 

lol, quoted for truth!

Anybody find it strange that the OP has an a6 in an EG? I guess it's possible, but typically people swap newer engines into a car, not older ones!