91 CB7 Fog Lights
I'd seperate the circuit into two parts.
The high amp side:
Use 12 gauge wiring, an inline fuse holder and a 20amp relay.
Run a 12/14 gauge wire from the battery + terminal to the fuse holder to one of the relay terminals and from another relay terminal* to the lamp.
The low amp side.
Use 16/18 gauge wire and run a wire from the fuse block thru a switch and on to the relay triggering terminal.
This way you're not forcing a lot of wattage thru a switch that wasn't built for it, and also making sure the lamps burn as brightly as they can.
P
*which terminals will be determined by the terminal schematic normally found on the relays' case.
The high amp side:
Use 12 gauge wiring, an inline fuse holder and a 20amp relay.
Run a 12/14 gauge wire from the battery + terminal to the fuse holder to one of the relay terminals and from another relay terminal* to the lamp.
The low amp side.
Use 16/18 gauge wire and run a wire from the fuse block thru a switch and on to the relay triggering terminal.
This way you're not forcing a lot of wattage thru a switch that wasn't built for it, and also making sure the lamps burn as brightly as they can.
P
*which terminals will be determined by the terminal schematic normally found on the relays' case.
P Adams, are you saying that the size of the wire is dictating the wattage??? I think you are saying that building a complete new circuit and not going completely through the Fog Light Switch is the better way to go??? Just for clearity please.
Duane:
In effect, you're building a direct path (shorter route) from the battery to the lamp while still maintaining safety (fuse holder), offering a path of less resistance (heavier gauge wire) capable of heavier loads (HD switch (relay)).
You're eliminating a rather long path thru relatively small gauge wires (high(er) resistance) and asking the whole thing to pass thru a switch designed to carry 5 amps (if at that).
In effect: Voltage loss. Anything which will eliminate system resistance will directly impact what voltage remains when it finally arrives at the "work site"
Think "Starter Solenoid System" and you'll get my drift.
P
In effect, you're building a direct path (shorter route) from the battery to the lamp while still maintaining safety (fuse holder), offering a path of less resistance (heavier gauge wire) capable of heavier loads (HD switch (relay)).
You're eliminating a rather long path thru relatively small gauge wires (high(er) resistance) and asking the whole thing to pass thru a switch designed to carry 5 amps (if at that).
In effect: Voltage loss. Anything which will eliminate system resistance will directly impact what voltage remains when it finally arrives at the "work site"
Think "Starter Solenoid System" and you'll get my drift.
P
Last edited by P_Adams; Dec 2, 2008 at 02:48 AM.
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