Iv herd people say it is and other people say its not... I have a 2000 gsr motor built for boost, JE pistons, eagle rods, 9:1 Comp ratio (bottom end build). The motor had 60k when it was built and now has prolly around 66k... Its making around 400whp as of now and its my daily driver in the summer time...

I do a lot of driving back and fourth to school putting a lot of miles on it each week. I keep up with my oil changes, changing it super frequently every 1k miles just to be safe cuz i drive so much. At times i put nearly 1000 miles on it a week at best...

Some people say as long as im not always boosting and romping on it everywhere i go i should be fine...Then other people tell me motors built for high comp or boost should not be either daily driven, or if they are daily driven then they should be very frequently because there really only good for 40k miles or so.

WHAT SHOULD I BELIEVE?? SHOULD I BE OK??

 

if it runs good and doesnt burn oil, drive it.

 

Changing your oil every 1000 miles is excessive, expensive, and unnecessary.

At 400 WHP it should be pretty easy to get 60K miles out of your built motor, even if you're bagging on it frequently. Don't worry about it. Drive the car, and enjoy it. So what if you have to rebuild it with new rings/bearings in 3 or 4 years. Build a car to drive it and enjoy it, not to worry about blowing it up.

 

It depends on the overall picture. If the engine was built 'loose', it may not last as long. It it was beat on constantly (weekend car), it will also not last as long. If most miles are from just cruising the highway, it will last quite a while. If its a really crappy setup with high IAT's, leaky turbo, etc, well you can guess.

Do a leak-down test and compression test. The first failure will be at the rings, especially if it was tuned very rich or lean. Too much fuel or heat will not allow as much oil to lube them, leading to failure. Next would be the bearings, and low/steadily decreasing oil pressure would tell you they're on the way out. The turbo would be the last major thing to look at, especially if it was pushed hard, such as: high boost, boosting when cold, too much/little lubrication, too much heat.

Some people 2k (bad build), some get over 102k. However, if it shows any signs of major wear or impending failure, it is a good idea to rebuild it. That's always cheaper than ruining a crank, rods, entire sleeves, etc.

 

run synthetic and change the oil at 7500 miles at the earliest

your just waisting oil and money

 

I appericate all your guys help, I did a leakdown and comp test before i put it away this year for the winter...comp was 165 across the board and leakdown test was perfect...however i wasn't the one who built the motor so i don't know if it was a "loose build" or not. I guess ill just drive it like you guys said and see how it goes...Im just a person that thinks too much and worry's alot. The cars my baby. lol. Also all my turbo parts are good brands i didnt really cheep out there. And i just rebuilt my turbo so i should be good to go...

Oh and what kind of oil do you guys think i should run? and how frequently should i change it? I usual don't run synthetic which is why i change it soo often. Plus it just makes me feel better and that its helping the motor out in the longrun...

P.S. The person who built my motor told me to stick with Valvoline conventional...so that is all iv been running in it...Iv still yet to find out why he told me this...

 

its a built motor
i do not see why it cannot last 100k+ miles

i mean stock evos motors push 400+whp all day long with 100k + miles with no problems.
my evo is at about 400whp and i'm at 60k miles np and mnanyy ppl at my power level is over 100k miles with no problems

there is nothing that makes a built honda motor any less reliable than a 4g63

 

LOL...i'm willing to bet many people on here will tell you otherwise.

 

Heh! My owner's manual says to change the (dino) oil at 7500 miles.

I try to change my M-1 oil every 5K... but it's usually closer to 10k.

The key is having an oil filter that will last that long - and Purolator PureONE filters seem to hold up pretty good!

 

One thing you didn't mention is WHAT brand/type of oil you're running.

I know you said you want to be careful, so all I wanted to add is...

These days, there is a lot of crappy oil out there. It's mandated by law!

You see, the newer cars (2006-up) have V sensitive cat converters, so the government has mandated that the oil producers take most of the additives (like zinc) out of the oil. Actually, the additives are still there, but in V limited amounts.

Then, there are all the rules about the additives in quart bottles vs bulk containers... sold in auto stores vs department stores, etc. etc.

I used to run regular ol' Mobil 1 until I found out about this. Now I run Mobil 1 High Mileage, which still has all the additives that older cars require, if you want the motor to last!

I might also mention that metal levels in motor oil usually spikes right after you change your oil - so you probably aren't doing your engine any favors by changing it ever 1k. This is measureable through oil analysis, and documented on lots of motor oil blogs, and so forth, and so on.

Anyway, without turning this into an oil diatribe...

I would suggest that you run M-1 High Mileage, or better yet, M-1 "TDT" (Mobil 1 Turbo Diesel Truck) motor oil... or equivalent oil from another producer... and you should be just fine!

If you just can't bring yourself to pop for synthetic oil, Chevron Delo 400 and Shell Rotella-T are excellent too, and about half the price of M-1...