can someone do a testing procedure for me?
i need someones helps to do a test procedure if u have a stock 98 gsr so i can confirm if my ecu is bad or not...i noe they rarely go back but i cant find anyone local to borrow theirs..if someone is nice enough to help me out here are the steps..
1. warm up car
2.get a multimeter
3. test the voltage on A15(Red/yel) wire and see if it is a steady battery voltage or a duty cycle
A15 is the evap purge control solenoid. in the service manual it say the purge sol is suppose to duty cycle when the engine is warm.im tryin to pass Bar with a 98gsr motor and i keep gettin a temp dtc p1457 and ive tested everthing i can and its telling me to replace the ecu so i would like to confirm this b4 i buy another one
1. warm up car
2.get a multimeter
3. test the voltage on A15(Red/yel) wire and see if it is a steady battery voltage or a duty cycle
A15 is the evap purge control solenoid. in the service manual it say the purge sol is suppose to duty cycle when the engine is warm.im tryin to pass Bar with a 98gsr motor and i keep gettin a temp dtc p1457 and ive tested everthing i can and its telling me to replace the ecu so i would like to confirm this b4 i buy another one
im tryin to pass bar wit my gsr in my 98 cx hatch. i need ALL monitors to be ready and i cant get my EVAP monitor to set bcuz a temporary DTC keeps storing for a code p1457..ive replaced my shut off valve, bypass valve, bypass sol and still no fix...ive replaced my purge control sol with a known good one and still no fix...
i have the right ecu, all wireing is correct, all sol are getting voltage and ground..in the service manual it says that when the car is at operating temp that the power wire for the purge control sol. A15 at the ecu is suppose to duty cycle which is turning on an off the purge control sol...now the problem is when i test mine i just have a constant 12 V and it doesnt duty cycle
when i do the exact same test procedure on my moms 97 civic it will duty cycle and if i was to pull the vacuum hose from the evap canister to the purge control sol. i can hear/feel vacuum on that hose
i dont wanna buy another ecu and have it still do the same thing thats y i wanted some help to confirm if theirs actual does duty cycle or not
i have the right ecu, all wireing is correct, all sol are getting voltage and ground..in the service manual it says that when the car is at operating temp that the power wire for the purge control sol. A15 at the ecu is suppose to duty cycle which is turning on an off the purge control sol...now the problem is when i test mine i just have a constant 12 V and it doesnt duty cycle
when i do the exact same test procedure on my moms 97 civic it will duty cycle and if i was to pull the vacuum hose from the evap canister to the purge control sol. i can hear/feel vacuum on that hose
i dont wanna buy another ecu and have it still do the same thing thats y i wanted some help to confirm if theirs actual does duty cycle or not
no check engine light, its a temporary dtc which doesnt turn on the light but it will show up on a handheld scanner..even if i was to reset the ecu and drive the car it will still show back up
Wait so you have an OBDI GSR on an OBDII Civic chassis? I'm assuming you had it swapped professionally and are using the proper GSR harness.
I'll say your A15 is either incorrectly wired, or is in contact with another feed. It's really uncommon for an ECU to fail, unless it was toasted during the swap.
Check two things in KOEO: be sure A15 has a full connection from the ECU to the Purge connector with minimal resistance, otherwise replace the wire & try again.
Also test from A15 to the positive battery terminal, if there's a connection then replace the wire & try again.
After completing these tests, disconnect your negative battery terminal for 5 minutes, then run idle until the fan turns on.
If it still continues, THEN your ECU is bad.
I'll say your A15 is either incorrectly wired, or is in contact with another feed. It's really uncommon for an ECU to fail, unless it was toasted during the swap.
Check two things in KOEO: be sure A15 has a full connection from the ECU to the Purge connector with minimal resistance, otherwise replace the wire & try again.
Also test from A15 to the positive battery terminal, if there's a connection then replace the wire & try again.
After completing these tests, disconnect your negative battery terminal for 5 minutes, then run idle until the fan turns on.
If it still continues, THEN your ECU is bad.
its a obd2 gsr in a obd2a civic
wireing harness was correctly done rite by me which i took time on doing
i have voltage going to A15 and ground also..my problem is that the purge control sol doesnt duty cycle when there is a load on the engine, it just has a constant 12 volts..
according to the troubleshooting procedure on honda and acura it says to jack the front of the car up, warm up the engine, put it in 1st gear and rev. the car up to 3k rpm and the power wire (A15) should duty cycle and u should be able to here and feel vacuum from the hose from the canister to the purge sol...ive done this at least 5x with a new purge sol and still it will not duty cycle it just has constant 12volts
my evap system has 3 sol, purge control sol, canister shut off valve, bypass sol valve...they all have voltage like it should KOEO, they all have ground..ive looked on the parts catalog for 98 gsr bcuz thats the ecu i have to make sure my civic has those parts and it has the same parts also
ive done all the troubleshooting steps in the manual and its telling me to replace the ecu wit a known good one but i dont want to buy another ecu and still have the same problem..nobody i noe has a ecu i could borrow and craigslist sellers are asking too much for theirs
wireing harness was correctly done rite by me which i took time on doing
i have voltage going to A15 and ground also..my problem is that the purge control sol doesnt duty cycle when there is a load on the engine, it just has a constant 12 volts..
according to the troubleshooting procedure on honda and acura it says to jack the front of the car up, warm up the engine, put it in 1st gear and rev. the car up to 3k rpm and the power wire (A15) should duty cycle and u should be able to here and feel vacuum from the hose from the canister to the purge sol...ive done this at least 5x with a new purge sol and still it will not duty cycle it just has constant 12volts
my evap system has 3 sol, purge control sol, canister shut off valve, bypass sol valve...they all have voltage like it should KOEO, they all have ground..ive looked on the parts catalog for 98 gsr bcuz thats the ecu i have to make sure my civic has those parts and it has the same parts also
ive done all the troubleshooting steps in the manual and its telling me to replace the ecu wit a known good one but i dont want to buy another ecu and still have the same problem..nobody i noe has a ecu i could borrow and craigslist sellers are asking too much for theirs
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Dude, have you at least tried resetting your ECU? If you replace a part and don't drain the power from the ECU it's going to eternally hold the code. Unplug the negative battery terminal for 10 minutes then run the engine until it warms up.
But realistically if that's the only problem you're having, just bypass the purge solenoid and disconnect A15. It should clear the code, and you can pass bar. Evap purge really isn't important.
If it doesn't abort the code for whatever reason, then you have no choice but to run an entirely new A15 wire, and replace the ECU if it doesn't change anything. Radio Shack has cheap 18 gauge shielded low-voltage wire you can use. You might have just pinched it during the harness installation.
Just feed it through the firewall and terminate appropriately. If you routed your entire wiring harness from engine to ECU and reinstalled all the pins correctly by yourself, then this is surely something you can easily do.
But realistically if that's the only problem you're having, just bypass the purge solenoid and disconnect A15. It should clear the code, and you can pass bar. Evap purge really isn't important.
If it doesn't abort the code for whatever reason, then you have no choice but to run an entirely new A15 wire, and replace the ECU if it doesn't change anything. Radio Shack has cheap 18 gauge shielded low-voltage wire you can use. You might have just pinched it during the harness installation.
Just feed it through the firewall and terminate appropriately. If you routed your entire wiring harness from engine to ECU and reinstalled all the pins correctly by yourself, then this is surely something you can easily do.
ive tried resetting the ecu many times..i would clear the code wit a scanner and try to set my monitors afterwards...i get 6 monitors set and the last monitor EVAP will not set and a temp p1457 code comes up..if i bypass the purge sol. my evap monitor will still be INCOMP. and when i go to the ref. he will know it isnt set bcuz the monitors is one of the things he checks...they want 7 out of 7 monitors set unlike reg. smog stations where u are safe with 5 out of 7
have you checked for a vacuum leak ond or a faulty hose in the evap system my ek did the same thing if you are using the canister from the civic thatr could be a problem too try to use the gsr one if you havent thecode is for the canister and if you did use the gsr one replace it first the sensor on top of the gsr could be different that the civic i am at work right now other wise i would check i do alot of sswaps in my spare time including the swap you have accomplished here please hit me back with wheter or not u have fixed it yet or what you have tried thus far i believe ill be able to heelp you. i got to the ref about twice a week i also hav e a lot of honda master tech on call
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hybrider
Honda Civic / Del Sol (1992 - 2000)
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Apr 29, 2003 06:50 PM




