GSR Swap w/ 5K rev limit & high idle
Just swapped in my GSR and it idle at about 2000-2500 also it has a 5K rev limit. Now I still have the wire the VTEC in just wanted to make sure it runs. Will it do that with VTEC not wired?
i kind of doubt they do. i've been fighting a high idle for awhile now with zero help from HT. tracing stuff down, trying different cam gear settings etc. if you have a stock GSR you should check
1. vacuum leaks
2. TB screw
3. TPS sensor set correctly {i did a write up on how this is done if you search}
which ecu are you using on which motor BTW? also describe the idle more. is it high all the time? when cold, warm, ever stall etc...
1. vacuum leaks
2. TB screw
3. TPS sensor set correctly {i did a write up on how this is done if you search}
which ecu are you using on which motor BTW? also describe the idle more. is it high all the time? when cold, warm, ever stall etc...
It's a p72 computer obd2. With the obd2 harness so I'm guessing the motor is also. It's a 2K idle steady at start up than works its way down to about 1300. As soon as I just tap the gas pedal a hair it goes up again. Doesn't ever stall because the idle is so high I guess. I unplugged the IAC to see if it's reading power and I got power there, plus when I unplugged it, it idle lower on startup also to where it soon be all the time.
do you ever get codes po170 or 172? every now and again mine throws those. just in the past two days i've made progress with getting the idle better. here's what i did.
cam gears set at 1.5 advanced on the intake and 3 retarded on the exhaust. my head was milled so this may not directly relate, also, i have crower 401 cams. my idle was really funky with both gears advanced, also blew black soot, that's gone.
check TPS voltage
spray out idle control valve with carb cleaner
make sure you don't have a vacuum leak. if you still have the GSR manifold double check the lines and try capping off the evap line for a test. my canister was leaking a bit & caused a good deal of my idle problems. seal that line to the manifold and just let it evap into the engine bay for the test. drive a few minutes and see if it helped.
check your radiator and make sure the coolant it topped off. sometimes air bubbles wig out the idle valve and it goes in and out of warm up mode.
realize that if you have the heater blowing the ecu will idle up around 1100rpm, this is normal
cam gears set at 1.5 advanced on the intake and 3 retarded on the exhaust. my head was milled so this may not directly relate, also, i have crower 401 cams. my idle was really funky with both gears advanced, also blew black soot, that's gone.
check TPS voltage
spray out idle control valve with carb cleaner
make sure you don't have a vacuum leak. if you still have the GSR manifold double check the lines and try capping off the evap line for a test. my canister was leaking a bit & caused a good deal of my idle problems. seal that line to the manifold and just let it evap into the engine bay for the test. drive a few minutes and see if it helped.
check your radiator and make sure the coolant it topped off. sometimes air bubbles wig out the idle valve and it goes in and out of warm up mode.
realize that if you have the heater blowing the ecu will idle up around 1100rpm, this is normal
something i do on cars that come in with high idle, etc is use brake clean (not as hard on skin and wont remove paint) to spray around the intake little spots at a time. if u have a vaccum leak spray the hoses to check them and around the intake gasket and throttlebody gaskets also. might help my gsr was leaking at the intake gasket near the back of the head (tranny side) found that the paper gasket had become soggy or just plain wore out
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court76wi
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Jul 2, 2009 02:50 PM




