My car is bogging like a *****.

A little backround:
1995 GSR Teg (b18c1)
Header, exhaust, short ram intake, AEM fuel rail, AEM fuel pressure regulator, AEM fuel filter.

My car started to bog down last week at around 5000 rpm, and then run strong and fine at 6500+ rpm.

Turned out to be water in cylinder #4's plug tube from washing the engine bay down. Shot all the water out with an air compressor, changed plugs, ran fine, until last night and today.

The car would bog down at a low rpm, in like 4th or 5th gear, at about 2000 rpm, continue to do so until 3000 rpm.

I changed the cap and rotor today. The plugs are OE replacements, NGK's. They're gapped correctly.

Oil was changed with an OEM Honda filter and Amsoil XL 5w30 full synthetic on Friday.

Plug wires are new, Accel 300+ 8mm blues.

The timing is set right, it was never touched or adjusted.

Vtec engages right at 4500 like it's supposed to, fuel pressure is right at 40lbs on the gauge on the filter at idle. When the engine's cold, it's fine. When it warms up, and I wind through the gears faster, it bogs down like there's no damn tomorrow.

It will bog down under load, and even out of gear. It bogs down throughout the whole rpm range. From 2000 all the way to redline. If I go easy on the throttle, it's fine, but if I have my pedal to the floor, it then bogs.

I read though my Haynes manual, and I've excluded; cap & rotor, spark plugs, plug wires, etc.

I'm going to pull the fuel pump in a little bit to see if there's anything clogging the pick-up, and try and see if there's any gunk or other crap in the tank.

What the hell can it be? It's driving me nuts, and makes me get worried and paranoid when my car runs like ****.

 

Have you checked the o2 sensor? Maybe its the useless fuel modifications, have you tried putting the rail and regulator back to stock?

 

Any codes?

I second the o2 sensor.
My 93 Gs-R bogs down but only at cruise, if I go WOT it's fine.

 

Check your cat. A clogged cat or exhaust system will create the same symptoms.

 

I bought the car a month ago. Up until about a week ago, it's been running fine and strong. I don't have the stock rail or regulator, the car came with those parts. Oh, and there is no 02 sensor on the header, and I don't see a plug for an 02 sensor in the area of the exhaust off the head.

No codes, no CEL, and the light does work.. it lights up when I turn the key on. It only bogs and sputters if it's at WOT, if I'm cruising and not mashing on the gas it's fine.

I just dropped the car off at the body shop, to finish up a couple things, so after it's out I'll put it on the lift and pull the cat.

If it's not the cat, I'm pulling the fuel pump under the seat to see if the strainer if full of gunk and stuff. If there's anything on it, I'll be dropping the fuel tank and flushing it out.

 

Well, a little update, got the car back from the body shop.

After countless hours of searching, pulling my hair out, cursing and swearing, and a few bloody knuckles, I've pinpointed the bogging to be the ignition.

A friend suggested it was the fuel filter. Went to the store, and to my luck they don't sell just the filter for the AEM filter/canister, nor do they make a filter for it. The tech support guy told me they're available from the autoparts store, and they fit in the AEM canister.

Well they don't. I cannot find one that fits, and the jackasses at AEM were no help.

I said screw it, and dropped $23 on a Fram filter, and used my fuel pressure gauge from the AEM one.

Get the new Fram filter on, go around the corner and fill the tank. The car was still not warmed up. I'm driving around, and it does not bog at all. I'm all like "HELL YEA!" and I go to hi-five my bud sitting in the passenger seat, and boom. Starts bogging like it was before.

Talked to another friend, and he says, "drop the cat". I did that. The cat was so badly clogged, it was not funny. I go "hmmm, this had to be it".

Get the newly gutted cat back on the car, and atlast, 5 minutes down the road the damn car is bogging/misfiring again.

That's it. It was time to do more research.

As it turns out, when the damn screw snapped off from the cap into the dist. housing, I just slapped it back on. The ignition timing was way off.

After sitting on the computer, I come across an article to test the ohms resistance on the coils. The range the primary is supposed to be at is 0.6-0.8 ohms. The damn thing reads 1.3 ohms. Pretty much double the resistance than a properly opperating primary coil is supposed to be. The secondary coil came back to 16.9k ohms, in which the proper range is supposed to be between 12.8k to 19.2k ohms.

Me and my friend adjust to the distributor back to where it's supposed to be, and it ran alot better, it didn't want to die at idle like it was doing, and wouldn't misfire as much, but the coil is still coming in and out, making the car bog every now and then..

I don't thing the parts stores are open on Thanksgiving, so the coil will have to wait until Friday.

I'll report back after I get a new coil.

 

Replace your fuel filter...

 

I believe that has already been covered, earlier tonight.