What all is required to do this? My stock d16y8 just blew and I can get one of these for very cheap. I assume everything will bolt up correctly to my stock components? I was also wondering if this is a legal replacement engine (smog wise) for california?

 

In terms of physically bolting up it wont be a problem. but in terms of the ECU, thats where it gets a little tricky, there is no US ECU that will correctly run that engine, a Y8 ECU will allow you to run regular vtec, but no vtec-e. The P2J ECU that goes with it is rare, expecially the manual version and wont pass emissions in california (the engine itself might)

 

how about swapping a d16y5 in? i can get one of those for next to nothing. if i swapped over my intake and exhaust manifold and ran my stock p2p ecu would it work fine?

 

still havent found any info on this.. any help appreciated...

 

no you need p2m ecu for the d16y5 btw wiki is ur best friend if ur lookin up d series engines

 

i did one of those.. all you have to do is wire your regular vtec solinoid to the ecu then wire the vtec E solinoid to a MSD rpm swich and set it at like 3grand and you should be fine.

 

how do you go about leaning out the first stage? the regular vtec's ecu will still run like it is the rpm switch may activate the second stage but still no 20:1 lean burn mode so you're still not taking full advantage of this engines gas mileage. plus if you're running it rich on 12 valve and its supposed to run lean thats not really optimal.

i also wanna do this swap and it seems to do it right would be to get a p28 chipped with iab to turn on the first vtec then tune the lower end leaner and run p08 maps on the mid-high end with the regular vtec signal on the 2nd vtec. or get the right ecu with obd2 but then you got egr, second o2 and all that crap.

 

If its a manual you can, you'll have wire the 5 wire O2 sensor though and IIRC they use an exhaust manifold with the cat integrated that you actually need for the wideband O2 sensor to work right.

My theory always was to run an automatic chipped P28 and use the circuitry used for the automatic transmission lockup solenoid to control the vtec-e vtec solenoid and use some custom fuel and timing maps.

 

ok well im going to be putting the d16y5 (hx) into my 98 ex and i forgot that the 96-00 civic engine harness is 1 piece... will everything plug in on the hx using my stock ex harness and will i have to wire anything else that is not on my stock harness?

 

It would save you a lot more time if you've just swapped in a D16Y7 or another Y8,

Both motors don't cost all that much and both of those motors will pass your california emissions.

 

does anyone know the second part of the P2J ecu code thats manual?

 

obd2a ECU for D15Z7 3 stage motor 37820-P2J-003 for 96-98

obd2b manual ones would be 37820-P2J-J11 for 99-00 (I think). This one will is even harder to find than the 2a version. 2a auto ECU 37820-P2J-J61 however is dime a dozen.

Principal difference for the auto ECU is that the TCM and PCM is combined in the 2b. 2a will have seperate TCM & ECM. TCM is Transmission Control Module whilst ECM is the Engine Control Module.

Manual 2a ECU would be ideal for the swap but auto 2a can still be used. Not sure for the 2b though. Manual ECU calls for expensive 5 pin primary wideband O2 whilst the auto uses 4 wire narrowband. Plus you need the IACV fix to work with the manual ECU. In other words you'll have to cough up some extra to work with the manual ECU.

To re-use the auto ECU, it has to be tricked as the auto tranny is not there anymore. The ECU has to be tricked to start in P or N, and full engine function in D.

If just trick ECU to P or N, engine will start but will not engage VTEC nor rev pass 5k rpm as per shop manual. But if trick to D, engine will have VTEC and full rev but ECU prohibit engine start at D.

I'm with discussion with another friend on how his mechanic got around the P & D issues.

The rest of the small details needs to be looked into too i.e. reverse light switch, key lock etc.

Using back the auto ECU at this point applies to 2a only. Not sure for the 2b but I think it is the same but I stand corrected.

IMO I would retain the auto ECU. It's a less of a hassle.