top hats? can you explain this to me?
iv been searching for a little bit and cant find out any good info on the top hat method..
can anyone explain to me how it works.. and if its actually good
can anyone make me some...1991 civic si let me know..
maby post pics
can anyone explain to me how it works.. and if its actually good
can anyone make me some...1991 civic si let me know..
maby post pics
Remove your upper spring perches. Press the mounting studs out. Cut the tops off. Weld in an extension pipe. Weld the tops back on. Press the studs back in. Reinstall.
The idea is to reset the struts static resting point to where they were designed, which for most struts is OEM ride height. Also you want to increase travel by allowing the strut (or just the bump stop) up into the extension, but not to the point that your upper A arm hits the frame. In my case I didn't cut my bump stops. Instead the entire bump stop sits in the extension so I have OEM-like travel and still have the full bump stop intact.
Ideally you want the extensions as long as the amount of drop you plan on doing, but hood clearance is the limiting factor.
Many people will tell you now that depending on what brand of struts you have, ie Koni, there is no benefit to this mod. But when I did this on my Tokico Illuminas RAK it was like night and day. Still have them after 5 years on the same setting (2 out of 5), and they are like the day I bought them. I'm dropped a little over an inch and a half and my extensions are an inch and a half. Just barely clears the hood on my EG hatch.
The difference is hard to explain but it's similar to two experiences I've had 1) going from heavy, oversized rims to lightweight 15 inch rims, and 2) replacing blown struts. I guess you could say that the feeling is that the tires stay glued to the road over bumps and dips and the car settles quickly. Not harshly and not so loose you feel like you're driving a tuna boat (or an SUV for that matter).
The idea is to reset the struts static resting point to where they were designed, which for most struts is OEM ride height. Also you want to increase travel by allowing the strut (or just the bump stop) up into the extension, but not to the point that your upper A arm hits the frame. In my case I didn't cut my bump stops. Instead the entire bump stop sits in the extension so I have OEM-like travel and still have the full bump stop intact.
Ideally you want the extensions as long as the amount of drop you plan on doing, but hood clearance is the limiting factor.
Many people will tell you now that depending on what brand of struts you have, ie Koni, there is no benefit to this mod. But when I did this on my Tokico Illuminas RAK it was like night and day. Still have them after 5 years on the same setting (2 out of 5), and they are like the day I bought them. I'm dropped a little over an inch and a half and my extensions are an inch and a half. Just barely clears the hood on my EG hatch.
The difference is hard to explain but it's similar to two experiences I've had 1) going from heavy, oversized rims to lightweight 15 inch rims, and 2) replacing blown struts. I guess you could say that the feeling is that the tires stay glued to the road over bumps and dips and the car settles quickly. Not harshly and not so loose you feel like you're driving a tuna boat (or an SUV for that matter).
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=2187584
procedure is detailed in the link I posted in there.
procedure is detailed in the link I posted in there.
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solo-x
Road Racing / Autocross & Time Attack
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Sep 26, 2002 08:51 PM



