My mechanic friend is gonna be helping me with this. I was just wondering if I need anything special? Should I watch out for anything?

I was also wondering if the Rotors have a "Break-in" period? Should I wait 300kms before pushing them?

Is there anything else I should look at while i've got the wheels off? Change Brake fluid?

TIA

Ohlias

 

nope pretty much just unbolt the caliper and take off the old rotor, put the new one on change the pad and bolt it back up, flusing the system would be a good thing to do while youre in there. yeah and dont use the brakes for 500 miles, lots of downshifting, hehe kidding.

 

the only "special" tool you need is an impact driver. honda put small retaining screws on the rotors to hold them to the hub when you take the wheels off. this screw can be pretty hard to get out and esaily be stripped with a screwdriver.

 

Ditto. Besides and impact driver (it's like a screwdriver you hit with a hammer, which in turn pushes the driver bit into the screw and rotates it at the same time), everything else can easily be done with common hand tools.

 

its pretty simple.. all you need is a ratchet, sockets (i think its 14mm.. or maybe 17mm), impact driver, jack, jack stands, something to hold your caliper so it doesnt hang on the lines (bungee cord or hanger), and you might need a mallot to smack your rotor even after the screws are out (I needed it on mine)... and if you installing new pads too, then a C-clamp.. I bled my brakes when I put in new pads and rotor because it was pretty old (I do it annually) but its not absolutely necessary...

heres a link for you:
http://www.bseries.net/html/garage/brakes.php

 

Thanks very much guys!

 

Once you get those damn screws out, don't bother putting them back in. The only thing they do is hold the rotor to the hub when the wheel is off and the caliper is removed, but the rotor tends to seize to the hub anyways. I heard the screws are only there because they make initial assembly of the car easier.

One on each side came out really easy with an impact screw driver, and the other screw gave me fits on both sides. I was able to drill into one a little but and then use the impact to get it out, but the other one got totally stripped.

 

yeah I didn't bother putting the rotor screws back on after I put in my Brembo Blank rotor discs either. I figured the rim/lug nuts would hold them on..and if my rim flew off while driving... the rotor would be the least of my problems Lolz

 

How do you guys like your Brembo Blanks then? I'm getting a pair for $110 CDN (+tax). Acura Charges $180 (+tax) for STOCK! And my stock ones are MAJORLY warped...


Ohlias

 

brembo blanks are the way to go on these cars. cheap but very effective.

try http://www.collettimotorsports.com for brembo blanks.

 

Why do i here everyone saying brimbo blanks are the way to go? What’s the problem there slotted/drilled rotors? I currently have the slotted/drilled on my car, had them for 6 months so far and haven experienced any problems yet. I experience a major change in stopping power. I only paid $45 each for the front and $40 each for the back. Another reason i got the slotted/drilled is because they look allot better than the blanks on the car.

 

Because Slotted/drilled rotors are worse at dissapating(spell) heat under heavy breaking- and "could" be more likely to fail beacause of the removal of material from the rotor weakening it-but

i agree they look better and i am sure for street applications they work fine and if they are larger than the stock solid rotor then they would be better than the stock rotors, although i would put my money in tires first for breaking,and then upgrade the breaks if i exceeded the stopping power of the stock rotor, but thats just me.


[Modified by 85pokey, 7:13 PM 8/1/2002]

 

Even w/ an impact driver, I was not able to remove the rotor screws, so I had to drill the screw-head off. Not an uncommon occurance... Otherwise, it was a very simple job.

 

I had to use a dremel to cut a deeper slot so that I could use the flathead piece with the impact screwdriver. And then they came out. The philips piece just stripped them.

 

Nice thinkin' -- wished I'd thought of that!

 

Make sure you get ALL the cosmoline or packing grease off the surface of the new rotors!

Often the manufacturer will package the parts with a light film of grease to ensure the rotors look shiney when you open the box... Get a can of brake cleaner and get all that gunk off off both sides of the rotor...

Another trick is to "score" the surface with a rough emory cloth or sand paper. This allows more of the pad material to impregnate the rotor surface and lead to better bedding of the pads...

Good Luck
Greg



[Modified by bulldog_RS20, 9:41 PM 8/1/2002]

 

Once again thank you very much, and I hope I don't have too much problems with those screws...



Ohlias