integra b16 swap issues
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Joined: Feb 2008
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From: Arlington, texas, united states
i had my integra swapped with a b16a out of a 92-95 del sol 170 hp version and converted my teg to obd1. my vtec use to kick in but now it doesnt...... but also the check engine light has always stayed on im running a pr3 obd1 ecu the only sensor im missing is a knock sensor and the ecu is not even throwing that code.... its throwing eod, iat, and o2 sensor it was throwing vss but got that fixed still no vtec kick and the im just trying to figure out what i need to do because im ready to give up on this car it has had these problems since the day i brought it back from the shop. oh and the coolant fan works but wont kick on by itself plus when i did rig it up to work the car still over heats i changed the thermostat as well and found some gunk didnt know what to make of it though. please somebody help me
are you sure your solenoid is still good? how is your oil pressure? sometimes hondas wont let vtec kick in if its throwing some codes...some of them arent even relevant. like my hatch wouldnt let vtec kick in because some stupid cel, but i cant remember what it was for now. as far as the overheating goes...make sure your not leaking anything. if your not its gotta be your thermostat. if you are getting these from advance...sometimes its like winning the lottery when it comes to getting a good thermostat.
Check your solenoid and also check your oil level. vtec uses the oil. Instead of one cam lobe actuating each valve, there are two: one optimized for low-RPM stability & fuel efficiency; the other designed to maximize high-RPM power output. Switching between the two cam lobes is controlled by the ECU which takes account of engine oil pressure, engine temperature, vehicle speed, engine speed and throttle position. So also check your pins in your ecu plugs, make sure they're all in tact and none are loose. And you don't even need a thermostat, I don't have one in my b16.
Never have.
Never have.
Yeah, I mean your thermostat opens at a certain degree can't remember what it is but if you don't have one it just flows all the time. Doesn't harm anything. And you may also want to try Reline's Water Wetter, lowers coolant levels by up to 30 degrees.
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Thread Starter
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Joined: Feb 2008
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From: Arlington, texas, united states
so what would you say about suspension problems i have a major issue with that as well........ my axle or strut im not sure which one but its knocking and my bushings are literally falling of on my sway bar and my control arm is loosing its boot as well as my axle.....
my car is rediculously dropped on some kind of nameless springs and tokico illuminus 5 stage adjustable shocks i was thinking of just yanking the whole suspension out and putting itr suspension, i figured it would be a cheaper rought to replace with better than just repairing everything
my car is rediculously dropped on some kind of nameless springs and tokico illuminus 5 stage adjustable shocks i was thinking of just yanking the whole suspension out and putting itr suspension, i figured it would be a cheaper rought to replace with better than just repairing everything
Originally Posted by 96civic_hb
Yeah, I mean your thermostat opens at a certain degree can't remember what it is but if you don't have one it just flows all the time. Doesn't harm anything. And you may also want to try Reline's Water Wetter, lowers coolant levels by up to 30 degrees.
you need a thermostat, it stays closed to let your engine get to proper running temp, and then opens and closes to keep the engine around the same temp.
OP don't remove your thermostat, it's important for your engines tempature to be properly regulated for the sake of longevity and to run correctly.
That is the most retarded explanation of VTEC I have ever read. Reading your posts in this thread makes me think you don't know WTF you're talking about.
Originally Posted by 96civic_hb
Check your solenoid and also check your oil level. vtec uses the oil. Instead of one cam lobe actuating each valve, there are two: one optimized for low-RPM stability & fuel efficiency; the other designed to maximize high-RPM power output.
Originally Posted by droopyli05
im running a pr3 obd1 ecu
Edit, nevermind, looks like '92 JDM integra's had them.
Modified by 94EG8 at 11:06 AM 11/15/2008
No, you don't NEED a thermostat. I've never ran into any problems on mine and neither did my friend on his fully built b18c
Anyways, did you remove the vtec solenoid and check the filter for clogging?
Have you checked for continuity on the switch?
If there is continuity, turn your key to the ON position and check for voltage. If no volatge check for open wires. If yes then,
Check your vtec solenoid valve for continuity if no then replace your vtec solenoid valve. If yes, you're going to have to go buy a new tool. LMK
Modified by 96civic_hb at 9:00 PM 11/15/2008
Anyways, did you remove the vtec solenoid and check the filter for clogging?
Have you checked for continuity on the switch?
If there is continuity, turn your key to the ON position and check for voltage. If no volatge check for open wires. If yes then,
Check your vtec solenoid valve for continuity if no then replace your vtec solenoid valve. If yes, you're going to have to go buy a new tool. LMK
Modified by 96civic_hb at 9:00 PM 11/15/2008
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