And so my 89x95 Build Starts
<U>Im looking for the following parts for this build PM me if you have them:</U>
Nothing at the moment
Well its about time i get to throw one of these posts up here.
I have recently got my hands on a ERL built H22 block with Darton Sleeves built for boost from my buddy.
One or more valves dropped and destroyed Piston #3 (see pix) He let me have the whole block for doing some wiring on his car so I jumped on it like a fat kid on cake.
I took it to work with me today and started tearing it apart.
http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c3...orBuild001.jpg
http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c3...orBuild002.jpg
http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c3...orBuild004.jpg
http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c3...orBuild005.jpg
http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c3...orBuild006.jpg




















I believe the Root of the Evil was the Auto-Tensioner. Causing Belt slippage and lovely piston to valve contact on Cyl #3.
Ill have everything out of the block by tonight and then all I need is a set of ARP Main bolts and it can go to the machine shop for:
-Overbore from 87-89 (hopefully that will take the damaged sleeves back to perfect condition)
-Line Bore the mains
-make sure block deck is true
-Hot tank
Setup will be as follows:
-Darton Sleeved H22a block
-Wiseco 6.5cc 89mm pistons
-Probe I-Beam Rods (deciding on getting them from Import Builders $325 or straight from Probe $275, does Jeff do anything special to them?) Im only assuming jeffs rods are the same as IB dont quote me on this.
-Brand new OEM H23 Crank
-Stock H22a4 head for now with Type S cams
-ERL BS removal kit (2 plugs in oil pump and turned bearings) as well as Rosko Cover plate
Below is always the most up to date status:
So the block is at the machine shop now, I went to the machine shop on Friday but i guess they decided to stay closed all weekend. So ill find out Monday whats going on.
In the meantime I took some preliminary measurements of my Crank. Its brand new. So specs should be very even. I took 2 measurements 90 deg. from each other.
Main Journals:
1. 1.9688”
2. 1.9688”
3. 1.9687”
4. 1.9687”
5. 1.9687”
Rod Journals:
1. 1.8899”
2. 1.8898”
3. 1.8898”
4. 1.8899”
Of course im going to recheck clearances when i get my block back and do it at the same time so i don't get different measurements due to heat expansion or contraction.
Nothing at the moment
Well its about time i get to throw one of these posts up here.
I have recently got my hands on a ERL built H22 block with Darton Sleeves built for boost from my buddy.
One or more valves dropped and destroyed Piston #3 (see pix) He let me have the whole block for doing some wiring on his car so I jumped on it like a fat kid on cake.
I took it to work with me today and started tearing it apart.
http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c3...orBuild001.jpg
http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c3...orBuild002.jpg
http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c3...orBuild004.jpg
http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c3...orBuild005.jpg
http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c3...orBuild006.jpg




















I believe the Root of the Evil was the Auto-Tensioner. Causing Belt slippage and lovely piston to valve contact on Cyl #3.
Ill have everything out of the block by tonight and then all I need is a set of ARP Main bolts and it can go to the machine shop for:
-Overbore from 87-89 (hopefully that will take the damaged sleeves back to perfect condition)
-Line Bore the mains
-make sure block deck is true
-Hot tank
Setup will be as follows:
-Darton Sleeved H22a block
-Wiseco 6.5cc 89mm pistons
-Probe I-Beam Rods (deciding on getting them from Import Builders $325 or straight from Probe $275, does Jeff do anything special to them?) Im only assuming jeffs rods are the same as IB dont quote me on this.
-Brand new OEM H23 Crank
-Stock H22a4 head for now with Type S cams
-ERL BS removal kit (2 plugs in oil pump and turned bearings) as well as Rosko Cover plate
Below is always the most up to date status:
So the block is at the machine shop now, I went to the machine shop on Friday but i guess they decided to stay closed all weekend. So ill find out Monday whats going on.
In the meantime I took some preliminary measurements of my Crank. Its brand new. So specs should be very even. I took 2 measurements 90 deg. from each other.
Main Journals:
1. 1.9688”
2. 1.9688”
3. 1.9687”
4. 1.9687”
5. 1.9687”
Rod Journals:
1. 1.8899”
2. 1.8898”
3. 1.8898”
4. 1.8899”
Of course im going to recheck clearances when i get my block back and do it at the same time so i don't get different measurements due to heat expansion or contraction.
Last edited by Lude@Heart; Jan 6, 2009 at 04:17 PM.
Originally Posted by shutta
it's a waste of a sleeved block to not go FI... to each his own...
Ht at its best
Conform or be flamed. Imposing one's own will till the end !
Throw some compression at her, some nice cams and drive the **** out of it . .
Originally Posted by 2fastGSR
Worst comment
Throw some compression at her, some nice cams and drive the **** out of it . .

^ This man understands
Boost is fun and all. But I respect a NA 4 cylinder a lot more than a boosted one.
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oh damn.....i don't think u guys know what this is gonna turn out to be....
Now the hatch will NEVER get traction. I thought McLudes car was nasty.... I remember seeing his car burn out thru 3 gears vs an SRT4.
Any word on how the valve dropped? Keeper come out or did the valve head break?
Now the hatch will NEVER get traction. I thought McLudes car was nasty.... I remember seeing his car burn out thru 3 gears vs an SRT4.
Any word on how the valve dropped? Keeper come out or did the valve head break?
Originally Posted by 98vtec
funny that us three all run the same crank, rod and piston setup

What is the H22 Compression of the Wisecos? Are THEY really the best to go with?
Originally Posted by NirVTEC
So who is doing the 90mm slugs these days?
I cringed like 6 or 7 times looking at those pictures. That piston # 3 is FUKKKed worse than that I have ever seen in person or in pictures. Theres like nothing left in the bottom lol. Cool build though, and good job going NA,
to that!!
good luck
to that!!good luck




