Questions about battery relocation
It takes about 17 to 20 feet to reach the trunk (go for 20 just to be secure) of 0 gauge. I'm unsure where the 4 gauge comes into play, unless you are upgrading the grounds? If so, about 10 ft or less would be fine.
Ah of course. I should have realized this, I just upgraded those wires. Like, 6 hours ago.
I used about 3 feet from alternator to block, probably 1.5 to 2.5 ft from block to starter, and less than a foot from the block to the fuse box. 8 feet or so should get you by nicely. That's of course assuming you're upgrading those wires. I used the terminals ("4 to 6 gauge") from AutoZone to connect the various ring connectors, they fit nicely (just as reference).
E: This was on a 6th gen '96 Civic though, mileage may vary now that I think about it.
I used about 3 feet from alternator to block, probably 1.5 to 2.5 ft from block to starter, and less than a foot from the block to the fuse box. 8 feet or so should get you by nicely. That's of course assuming you're upgrading those wires. I used the terminals ("4 to 6 gauge") from AutoZone to connect the various ring connectors, they fit nicely (just as reference).
E: This was on a 6th gen '96 Civic though, mileage may vary now that I think about it.
I'm gonna use my stock wire alternator to fuse box because 4th gens have a fuse right there.... I think its for that anyway but with the wire tuck it still reaches so thats all that matters to me.
Also I'm just curious, what brand wire will you be using, and from what place?
I've always had a first choice with a particular company, just curious if there's something better out there. :-)
I've always had a first choice with a particular company, just curious if there's something better out there. :-)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 88efZ6 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">4 gauge comes in after the distribution block because on older Honda's run the starter and fuse box both directly from the battery </TD></TR></TABLE> Skip the "distribution block" run the "0 gauge" directly to the starter motor and then run an 8ga with a 100A in-line fuse, or 4ga with a 150A in-line fuse] from the starter motor to the fuse box, it's a much better way to go because it eliminates a bunch of connections.
94
94
Trending Topics
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fcm »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> Skip the "distribution block" run the "0 gauge" directly to the starter motor and then run an 8ga with a 100A in-line fuse, or 4ga with a 150A in-line fuse] from the starter motor to the fuse box, it's a much better way to go because it eliminates a bunch of connections.
94</TD></TR></TABLE>
I'm trying to eliminate wires in my engine bay my fuse box is inside the car so that would mean having an ugly junction under the hood and I don't want that
94</TD></TR></TABLE>I'm trying to eliminate wires in my engine bay my fuse box is inside the car so that would mean having an ugly junction under the hood and I don't want that
Sorry man I didn't take any no camera.... its all done all I need to do is relocate the battery and fire it up.. Car was a mess when I got it but I made due with what I had because of lack of funds.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
87-EF rEx
Honda CRX / EF Civic (1988 - 1991)
4
Oct 9, 2005 11:52 AM




