2001 EM2. I replaced my brakes on Friday and I have been having a spongy brake pedal since. I have bleed the brake system properly approaching 10 times now, 3 times a wheel, in the correct order and using the correct method. I am on my second quart of brake fluid.
My brake pedal was firm before I started. I disconnected the brake lines when replacing my pads. I have had recommendations that I may have a air bubble in my proportioning valves. I want to see if any one else has any other ideas. I also have checked for leaks from my lines and my bleeding valves.


Modified by ajgrosch716 at 10:45 AM 11/3/2008

 

Another thing that could cause a spongy pedal is new pads on a old grooved brake disk.
If you did not have your disks resurfaced/replaced that could be the cause of your problem.

Once the pads bed in the brake pedal will feel firmer.

 

My rotors are mirrors. There are no grooves front back, left or right. I was told to bleed my proportioning valve and my ABS unit. Any other suggestions?

 

Surge bleed them. Get a clear hose and attach one end to the bleeder valve and submerge the other in a clear container (not water bottle, preferably like a mason jar or something like that) and have a buddy quickly pump the pedal as you open the bleeder valve. That should kick up any air bubbles trapped in the caliper. Then make sure to bleed it normally again. Did you replace the copper washers when you reattached the brake hose? Is the hose twisted at all? You didn't need to remove the hoses, not to go Monday morning quarterback on you.

You shouldn't have any air in your prop valve, or your master, unless you ran the reservoir dry while bleeding it. If so, you have to start at the top, MC, prop valve, LF, RF, RR, LR. You have drums on there?

 

Yep, crush washers were replaced. Nope, there were no twists in the hoses. I removed the hoses, to what I thought would make my life easier, because of not having a large enough clamp to push the piston back and a broken right wrist. Nope, the reservoir never ran dry. Yep, I have drums in the back.

 

Inspect your hoses if surge bleeding doesn't work. Have someone hit the pedal for you as you look. If you can see the hose swell adnormally, that can cause a spongy pedal. But I'm still betting on air in the lines somewhere.

 

For surge bleeding, have fluid in the bottom of the container and pump the pedal repetitively as the valve is open?

 

You got it

 

accumulator seal?

 

also, while bleeding brakes, never push the pedal all the way to the floor.

 

i'm having this same STUPID problem, the brakes on my integra have been kinda spongy/mushy for a long time now and i'm so fed up with it i'm thinking about having someone powerbleed it, i was told i had to have that done anyways because it has an abs unit, is this true? i did my accord front brakes last night and now there kinda mushy, i get a solid stream of fluid shooting out everytime, with no air bubbles, yet still no where as good as they were right before pad changes.

 

Have you checked your rotor thickness? they are a wearable item that many loook past. and you should bleed them if you open them up. otherwise there is no need. mite be a good time to flush your brake fluid too. and the abs unit is a sealed unit you shouldnt have to bleed. if its leaking then you may have to correct it and bleed it

 

just a little curious why you disconected your brakelines to replace the pads?