Well, when I went out to the BMV to title my car it started overheating after about ten minutes of driving. Blah blah blah, turned car off and cooled down when I went two pars past half.

I put a Koyo Dual Radiator on recently so I clearly could've messed something up. I've checked a lot of things but I can't find the issue.

First I checked for coolant levels, fans, and leaks. Fine. Then I tried to bleed out the air. (took off cap and bled the nipple while running) Still overheating.

Second I tried a few more things. The bottom coolant hose was cool while the top was hot, so I took out the thermostat and boiled it in water and it compressed. So I'm pretty sure everything is fine there. I'm putting in a Stant Thermostat 170*F (14127) from Advanced Auto soon anyways.

I also checked the ground from the battery terminal. I sanded down the connection point and tighten back down just in case. And when I did my swap I moved ECT switch B over from the USDM engine for the top radiator hose.

I've done some more, but I'm sick of typing. I'm going to go figure this out. Any input is appreciated. I do highly doubt that it's a headgasket though. No smoke, but I haven't done a compression/leakdown test yet. Also how do you check using a pyrometer?

 

sounds like you still have air in the system.

 

I have found that the best way to get all the air out of the system is to park on an incline or jack the front end up, so that the radiator cap is the highest point of the cooling system, remove the cap and run the car for a few minutes. After that replace the cap, let a little pressure build up, and open the bleeder nipple and check for air.

 

Okay. I put in that thermostat then started it up and it warmed up so everything was fine... until I decided to drive. I took the car ten feet down the road and it shot up three bars. I turned off the car and turned it back on after a 10 second break and it was in the middle again. Does coolant cool off that fast? I'm going to go jack it up now and screw around with it. I'll squeeze the hoses and everything and shake the radiator to try and force as much air out as I can. Just one more question... how long do I leave the bleeder open and when will I know when to close it? (just to make sure I'm doing it right!)

 

jacking the front up is the best idea, if u have a spare cv boot, they usually fit in the rad, just top that up with coolant with it in there so all the air bubbles will come out of there and pinch off the hose to the overflow tank so it doesnt fill up, it does still sound like u have air in the system, just leave the bleeder screw closed when u do this

 

Do a leak down and look at your sparkplugs after driving .....blown headgasket will often leave a yellowish / greenish color on the plugs......

 

I also have to wonder if one of your temp sensors is messed up, and sending a signal that you are running hot when you are just fine, so if you can check the temps I would do so. Maybe even buy a cheapo temp gauge from autozone or something, that you can put a lead inside your rad hose at the end, and just temporary wire it in your engine bay to make sure what your temps are like.

 

you said you checked the coolant levels, but you didn't say if you had a leak. I assume you don't, but if you do, it could be the waterpump...

 

check your grounds

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by smackdown &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">check your grounds[/QUOTE
Which grounds are going to cause this? I checked the one from the battery and the one going to the valve cover, but other than that I don't know which other ones.

][QUOTE=Tarlacon]you said you checked the coolant levels, but you didn't say if you had a leak. I assume you don't, but if you do, it could be the waterpump...</TD></TR></TABLE>
No leak that I can find. I looked at the waterpump and I don't see any coolant coming out. I'm going to change that and the tbelt soon anyways.

I'm going to swap out the radiator for the OEM and see if that helps today. I'll get back with you guys later

 

My ground on my 4th gen was the problem with my overheating. It was the ground on the driver side motor mount. Check that or replace it.

 

What are all the grounds I should check. I know the one from the battery and the one to the valve cover. Where is the transmission ground and which other ones are there?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RyanStevenPhillips &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">What are all the grounds I should check. I know the one from the battery and the one to the valve cover. Where is the transmission ground and which other ones are there?</TD></TR></TABLE>

The other one from the neg batt cable goes down to the trans. There's also
one from the wiring harness to the motor around the t-stat housing.

Bleed the coolant till it comes out in a solid stream from the t-stat housing.
If there is air in there you'll usually see coolant and air sputtering out of the
bleeder.

 

you flash the engine out when you replaced the raditor if not could have a glog in there.

 

Thanks SKDRCR for the info. I'm going to try it again tonight and see if I have any luck.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by subydoored &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you flash the engine out when you replaced the raditor if not could have a glog in there.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Could you please elaborate on that...?

 

crap can build up in the cooling ports and clog cause the engine to over heat

 

Thanks. I read it when I was trying to translate but got no luck!

Turns out it was only a ground. I replaced the ground going to the valve cover with some old connectors and amp cable I had laying around and sanded down the other grounds and it's fine. That was stupid.