Hi Guys!!!
My car has a new battery, the alternator is perfect, and theres something that still draining the battery, the car doesnt stop when is on the road, only when it stops for a long time... any solution???

 

are your battery cable and terminals good?

 

What kind of car is the first question.

 

is a honda accord year 2000, v4, lx

 

yes, everything seems ok, i heard that could be the ignition.

 

Any aftermarket accessories?

 

Need a little bit more info..

Does it click when tryin to start??
Does it turn over at all??
Do all the lights work and dash lights??

 

when trying to start it clicks, all the lights go on, and then nothing happen. I took the battery yesterday to replace it, but I dont think is that!

 

I'll answer this with the same answer I gave on your other DUPLICATE thread:

Disconnect the negative battery cable and connect an Amp Meter between the two.
If something is staying on, you will see a Amperage value.
Start pulling and reinstalling the fuses (one at a time) and observe the meter. Once you reach the circuit which is staying on, the meter value will drop to zero. That is your hint as to where to start looking.

Be aware that there are some systems that do stay alive, even with the key off.
Both the clock (and I believe the ECM) require a uninterupted power sourse, so plan accordingly. The amp draw for these components will be in the milliamp range and can be disregarded. It's so small a draw that it would take months to drain down a battery.

P

 

Well I'm assuming that if the lights are turning on it's not your battery unless its only got enough juice for the lights.

In accessory does the radio and everything work?

If so I doubt its the battery.

I had a similar situation with my car.

Read this forum... Let me know if it helps

In my case it was the main relay that was causing the car not to start

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=2324403

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by P_Adams &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I'll answer this with the same answer I gave on your other DUPLICATE thread:

Disconnect the negative battery cable and connect an Amp Meter between the two.
If something is staying on, you will see a Amperage value.
Start pulling and reinstalling the fuses (one at a time) and observe the meter. Once you reach the circuit which is staying on, the meter value will drop to zero. That is your hint as to where to start looking.

Be aware that there are some systems that do stay alive, even with the key off.
Both the clock (and I believe the ECM) require a uninterupted power sourse, so plan accordingly. The amp draw for these components will be in the milliamp range and can be disregarded. It's so small a draw that it would take months to drain down a battery.

P

</TD></TR></TABLE>
Anything over 50mA is an excessive current draw.