ok i decided after a LONG time to get a B18 swap.
now the thing is $$. i dont have much. if any.
for those of you that got swaps and didnt have much, how did you pull it off??

and which B18 series is the 1 that has OBDII thats also type r?
cuz i dont wanna get OBDI even though its got the P28

 

what kind of B18 there is alot of difference between B18b and B18c

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jimmy o. &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">what kind of B18 there is alot of difference between B18b and B18c</TD></TR></TABLE>
can i get the specs for both??
cuz i thought about that but not really. just crossed my mind.

 

I'm going to go out on a limb and assume he is talking about a b18c1.


Unseen, the b18c1 = GSR vtec motor, 170hp at the flywheel, 128lb/ft torque, compression ratio of 10.0:1, vs the b18b (LS motor) 142 hp at the flywheel, 127lb/ft torque and lower compression ratio of 9.2:1 .

The b18c1 will cost more, but in my opinion is the better investment. The b18b is easier to come by and will cost less, but no vtec unless decide on an ls/vtec set up . What are your future plans (n/a, forced induction, etc)?





Modified by EM_one MIKE at 7:15 PM 10/26/2008

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EM_one MIKE &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I'm going to go out on a limb and assume he is talking about a b18c1.


Unseen, the b18c1 = GSR vtec motor, 170hp at the flywheel, 128lb/ft torque, compression ratio of 10.0:1, vs the b18b (LS motor) 142 hp at the flywheel, 127lb/ft torque and lower compression ratio of 9.2:1 .

The b18c1 will cost more, but in my opinion is the better investment. The b18b is easier to come by and will cost less, but no vtec unless decide on an ls/vtec set up . What are your future plans (n/a, forced induction, etc)?

Modified by EM_one MIKE at 7:15 PM 10/26/2008</TD></TR></TABLE>

yea i was thining of the B18c1 after doing some research.
but its quite expensive.

and future plans are:
swapping d16y8 for b18c1
turbo
lower compression pistons.
new rods
new cams and cam gears
thats all that i got now. what else do you think i should do?
cuz i wanna upgrade the engine as much as possible.
so what else should i get?

 

If moneys an issue then I really cant see buying a GSR. If your going to end up boosting in the long run then just get the b18a/b. Also you said your going to end up replacing the rods and pistons for turbo anyways. Lets say you do pull off the turbo and everything else(Internals and whatnot) your going to be putting down at least 250whp I hope? Anyways at that point your suspension wont be able to hold the power your putting down so might as well go with the b18a/b and save yourself a couple hundred bucks to apply elsewhere. But this is only my opinion. Goodluck!

 

well i dont want the B18a cuz isnt it OBDI?
and is the b18b OBDII???

also, is there a way to get the suspension upgraded so it can handle all the power?
even though i doubt ill be using all 250whp.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Unseen Racer &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">well i dont want the B18a cuz isnt it OBDI?
and is the b18b OBDII???</TD></TR></TABLE>

B18A1
1990 - 1991 -&gt; OBD0
1992 - 1993 -&gt; OBD1

B18B1
1994 - 1995 -&gt; OBD1
1996 - 2001 -&gt; OBD2

 

your going to buy a B18B...not A....cuz thats what u can afford....case closed lol....

gsr's are much mroe expensive and harder to install ;-)

plus most people ruin their first turbo motor....so buy an LS...lol....youll save urself alot of money

 

Well in my opinion if your going to turbo it and not even break 250whp seems pointless to me but hey, its your money bro do what you want. I'm just saying most people jump the gun with these types of things. For example, a guy buys a GSR engine and puts 3K more into it w/ turbo and blah blah blah blah. When he gets it on the street to find out he cant even give it 60% throttle without those puney tires bursting into smoke. Whats the point of having that much WHP if you cant do anything with it? To the point I'd just get an engine first then worry about the turbo and suspension later if you choose. Personally I'm swapping a b18a/b in and then doing some suspension upgrades. (Koni Yellows w/ Ground Controls, CTR sway bars and some other)

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 90Rexx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">your going to buy a B18B...not A....cuz thats what u can afford....case closed lol....</TD></TR></TABLE>

B18As are even cheaper than a B18B, does require hunting down a hydro tranny though

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 90Rexx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">gsr's are much mroe expensive and harder to install ;-)</TD></TR></TABLE>

Expensive yes, harder to install, not really, theres marginally more wiring to do thats about it.

 

either B18B or B18C1. the latter costs more though.

 

if money is a concern, you need to face reality...the things you mentioned in your post (swap, turbo, cams, rebuild) IF you do all your own work, will easily cost you like 8 grand...you need to read everyhting in this link http://www.d-series.org/forums...price i guarantee it will change the way you look at that mad tyte jdm swap when for the price of the swap alone you can be at the 300-400 whp mark with your motor. b series engines are cool, and if money was not a concern, it would be the way to go, but dollar for dollar you already have one of the best platforms available under your hood.

 

jamato, you bring up some good points, but your pricing was for internet ordered b series swaps. If you can find a B series swap around your house (junkyards, cars in accidents), it will be substantially cheaper. i almost bought a 1999 B18b with 90k miles for $300, but decided i wanted a CRVtec swap since its legal in my state.

Just do some research if you want to go B, and as long as your not in a hurry, you can piece together a good LS/Vtec for fairly cheap. You just have to be patient and wait for the right parts to come along. This way, you dont pay shipping or business markup.

 

i agree that from time to time an awesome deal comes along, and you probably could get an awesome deal on a b18b, but most people with a dohc vtec motor, know they have something of value, and the way the market is for them from what i have seen, a complete swap will run you upwards of 2 grand at best. so now you have your swap, you buy yor bolt ons, and for about 2500, again, if you do the work, youre prolly putting down about 165-180 to the wheels depending on your tune. if you stay obd2, 165whp and maybe 120lb-ft is about as far as you will get with that amount of money in a b18c.

with that same figure of 2500, you can convert to obd1, upgrade your clutch, have your own diy tuning set up, and, most importantly be boosted and make about 200whp safely and reliably (people will argue this figure, but its just a rule of thumb), with torque numbers in the 180 neighborhood.

now, if your budget is twice that number, the b will probably net you more power, but again, thats only if you got the engine itself for very cheap. for most people though, especially those with any sort of financial limitations to their build, you will go faster, have more fun, and find parts easier with a d series

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jamato0331 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">... but dollar for dollar you already have one of the best platforms available under your hood.</TD></TR></TABLE>

on a D series????
sounds too good to be true

 

it most definitely is not to good to be true, check out d-series.org and also have a look at the link i posted above...with the stock engine, you will be able to make as much power as street tires can handle, and if you build the bottom end, you can make just as much power as any streetable b series. like i said earlier, im not a bseries hater or anything like that, its just there are so many people who think you have to swap to make power in a civic. if staying n/a is what you are after, then by all means this is true (a d series will only take you to about 150 in that case). if you dont care about the bling factor of a swap and just want a fast car, keep your d and start buying turbo parts with the money you were gonna put towards a swap.

d-series.org has tons of info that you might find interesting/useful. there are a lot of people on there who can give you some way more technical info than i can, and you will see plenty of 300whp+ setups done for about the cost of a typical type r swap. hope this is helping you, if you insist on a b swap, ill shut up.

 

hey sorry to butt into your thread but i want to get a gsr swap to put into my 93 cx OBD1 so what is going to need to be done as far as wiring and such?