i would like to know why go ls vtec if you can put the ls crank in a gsr block and have the same stroke... is the ls sleeves stronger or something.... i would really like to figure it out can anyone asist me??

 

a ls/vtec swap is cheaper then a gsr swap plus you gotta buy a ls crank and ls rods, etc etc then put it in the gsr block

 

You can buy an LS crank and rods for under $200, and a GSR block for under $200. An LS shortblock is like $300. Something a GSR block comes with, a crankshaft girdle, one for the LS is $100+. The GSR block has an oem oil cooler too. Not to mention you have to buy a $100 plus dollar LS/VTEC conversion kit. These are reasons I feel that a LS crank/rods in a GSR block is better than LS/VTEC.

 

thanx guys ....... i have a ls crank inn my gsr motor that am build but was jus curious y ppl dont go that route instead of ls/vtec

 

pm'ed you back

 

this what my next build is going to be . i cant wait to get it finished

gsr w/ ls crank and rods with p30 pistons

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 92civiceg9gsr &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You can buy an LS crank and rods for under $200, and a GSR block for under $200. An LS shortblock is like $300. Something a GSR block comes with, a crankshaft girdle, one for the LS is $100+. The GSR block has an oem oil cooler too. Not to mention you have to buy a $100 plus dollar LS/VTEC conversion kit. These are reasons I feel that a LS crank/rods in a GSR block is better than LS/VTEC.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I definitely agree... If you have all the parts to the LS crank in a GSR bottom end, it's much cheaper to build that. Plus you get a girdle from the factory as well

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 92civiceg9gsr &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You can buy an LS crank and rods for under $200, and a GSR block for under $200. An LS shortblock is like $300. Something a GSR block comes with, a crankshaft girdle, one for the LS is $100+. The GSR block has an oem oil cooler too. Not to mention you have to buy a $100 plus dollar LS/VTEC conversion kit. These are reasons I feel that a LS crank/rods in a GSR block is better than LS/VTEC.</TD></TR></TABLE>

ok but realistically, how easy is it normally to get a ls block vs a gsr block in good shape and in a fair price. maybe in your town they are a dime a dozen, but here....they are not.

also some gsr block as well as some b-vtec engines come with the oil cooler, for example my 98 gsr block did not oem.

for you to take full effect of the oem gsr girdle, your pushing the ls rods to their limits.

 

bump for more info!

 

bump more info on ls rods to limits??

 

for you to take full effect of the oem gsr girdle, your pushing the ls rods to their limits.[/QUOTE]

what did you mean by this ? im doing a ls vtec now ls block and crank should i use girdle ? i got gsr girdle and oil pan should i use it or no>?

 

Lets say money is not an issue. Can't you buy aftermarket rods like eagle rods and take it pass 8k?

 

bump for more INFO. Considering this..

 

bump. also considering, since i already have a gsr engine. i just need the ls crank and rods? would this setup not be just as reliable as normal (lsblock) lsvtec setup?

 

in my opinion

If you already have a ls crank,rods and a gsr block available then yes going with the b18c1 block is better,

since it was built with the intension to rev high and since it has the girdle,oil cooler(older models),better oil supply,the b18c1 stamp(you can sell the car for more with a gsr swap then a lsv swap),since it requires no drilling ,no taping the head and no lsv kit!

but If I had a gsr swap I would never ever do this,I dont see why and how this lsv thing has gotten so far it actually doesnt make too much sense!

you are doing a whole lot of machining,building,swaping and buying for what 37cc's ?that is 2% of a gain, its a number you can probably get by just upgrading your plugs!

My guess is that when people do ls vtecs there ride feels stronger cause

1)they had a b16 1600cc vs 1834 (that you can feel)

2)they had a ls non vtec 142hp vs alot more (you will feel)

3)they had lots of extras done within the build,pistons,rods,blueprinting&balancing, p&p,cams etc(that you can feel)

there is no other reason why a lsv would be any stronger,I personally think nothing fits better than oem and would have a healthy b18c1-5 over any built lsv-crv anyday!

 

 

i was always told that an lsv would be faster than a gsr bcuz of the ls longer stroke. and if ur doing the ls crank/rods into the gsr what would have to be machined? and where are u gettin the 37cc's from? (not being a dick i just dunno) if this was done with a light na build, pistons cams and a few other things. would it not benefit to use the ls crank over the stock gsr?

 

in my opinion there are 3 things to consider when building a motor, reliability, cost , outcome(as in hp/tq)

(reliability)
an lsv is not better when it comes to reliability, it needs machining drilling which means you have to trust some mechs hands for the job, it has a rediculous oil feed line in my opinion, it has a r/s ratio thats 1.54 vs 1.58, its got no girdle, rods and pistons were not made for the use of over 7500 and a vtec head,etc

(cost)
to be able to even run a lsv you need a block(ls,gsr etc) ls crank,rods and any 81mm b series pistons, an ls vtec kit, an vtec head, plumbing for the oil line, decking, drilling from a mech shop etc, which makes the cost to a lsv very high the cheapest realistic (so no I had a ls sitting in my garage already) lsv would be 450 for a head, 250 for an ls block,250 for the ls kit, and around 150 for the machining so even the cheapest lsv would be 1100 and thats with ls pistons ( not so good compression)

(outcome)

so after wasting a **** load of cash and ruining the stock reliability was it even worth it?

the only only difference between the gsr and ls is its stroke, nothing else in an ls is better, that stroke difference accounts for an 37cc difference ,37cc off of already 1797cc's from the gsr is a 2% difference. conclusion= atleast $1100 for a motor build that had lots of risk cause you had no chance to actually test the head,block,or machining before you could even put the motor together,2) trashing the reliability factor, for 2% gain over a gsr NOT WORTH IT! is all I can say!

 

v8eater-
good info! i totally see your point of view and agree. i was considering this over the h2b swap i was previously planning just cuz it would be easier lol. u totally shitted on that idea, but in a good way. back on the h2b band wagon! but lets not talk about that here.

 

also when you swap out crankshafts dont you have to have the bottom end line bored to properly and safley install a different crank?

 

Hey guys is there any difference between an ls/gsr/b16 crank gear?
I really need to know this asap!

 

When sleeving or using different main caps yes, block should be line honed. When using a LS crank in a GSR, squirters must be blocked off. This process also raises oil pressure, which is good.
Current build:
GSR block w/ LS crank
BRods - haven't picked pistons yet, need input
B16 head w/ supertech spring/ret+ 3angle
CTR CAMS/ ITR IM
B16 Auto w/ LSD
92 SI Converted to automatic

 

im building a gsr with a ls crank

https://honda-tech.com/forums/acura-integra-6/rebuilding-dc2-gsr-2497453/

 

hi im a new female in this website.I want to buid a ls vtec, i already have b16 head with crower,springs,and reatainer what is the best block gsr or Ls OR GSR With ls crank.And i have a forget rods,and i need to know more .

 

Hi i am a new female on this website.