ok guys so heres my dehlima
car is an 89 dx hatch with a d16z6 in it

obd0-obd1 jumper with chipped p28

the car will start and runs horribly then if you dont give it gas it'll soon after die
and im throwing code 14 idle air control valve

ok so heres what i have tried so far
-new iacv
-new plug
-new timing belt
-new alt belt
-tried a stock p30 with the same results
-bypassed the jumper harness with two wires coming straight from the iacv plug to the ecu plug..a9 and a23(is this right?)
-tried a5 and a23 cuz the chilton mauel i have(87-95 civc,crx,dell sol) said that a5 was for the iacv.
-flushed the coolant system many times
- and i have reset the ecu every time...

so im am stumped on whats going on...nothing is making a difference

could my motor just all the sudden be bunk?

any suggestions would be much appriciated

 

have you tryed changing the sensor on the back of the manifold and changed map

 

ya thats the idle air control valve..is that what your talking about?
and no i havnt change the map..but im pretty sure it would throw a code if the map sensor was tweaked

i also change the tps awhile back but kinda just turned it to one side and put it on...could this be the cause of my problems?

 

how is the clutch, like is it finicky about switching gears. does the car jerk if not given enough gas, very sensitive?

 

ya the car jerks if not enough gas and it pops second sometimes when it jerks

 

make sure the base idle is adjusted, via the idle control screw

 

IM guessing that if this has been happening since u installed the swap, and only if its been occuring since the swap, that you are using the original distributor that came with the car. I had a problem like this on my first swap. If you are using the original distributor swap it out with the one for the engine you are using. Its a long shot but it COULD be your problem.

 

was the other idle air control valve new or used? cuz they commonly go bad in fact i had one go bad yesterday

 

check the wiring to the iacv

 

Like accordaffair said check the idle via the screw.....also check for vacuum leaks...this can cause your car to idle and or drive horrible and could explain why you have to compensate by giving it gas which is really just opening the throttle and giving it more air to compensate for the vacuum that you are losing.....hope that helps dude

 

Curious.... did any of this help? Does the car run yet?

 

hey guys sorry i dont have the web right now

i checked for air leaks and didnt find any

also this hasnt gone on all the time the swap has been in just started one day cel came on and its been code 14 since...

and what is the idle air screw you guys are talking about?
does anyone have a helms picture where it is?

and the iacv was from a jinkyard...is there any way to test it?

and thanks for all the feedback guys keep it commin

 

so i dont know what i did but now the car idles good but when i try to rev it it falls flat on its face but if i slowly press the gas then it dosnt

still throwing code 14

 

the idle screw is on the top of the throttle body



IACV testing (this is for a d16a6) use an ohmeter between the leads, should be 8-15 ohms, if yes, check for continuity to ground between each lead, if no, turn the ignition switch in and measure for battery voltage between the leads

theres more to it but try those and also connect the leads to battery voltage directly and the valve should click.

Check here for more
http://media.honda.co.uk/car/o...7.pdf

 

^^^^
wow thats awesome info thanks alot bro!!

anyone have this kind of chart for a z6?


so what do i do with the idle screw? just play around with it till it idles better

 

warm up the engine, remove the plug on the iacv, and use the throttle screw to set the idle to 550.

 

bump going to head out to the junkyard tomorrow and try to get an uncut 89 engine harness and interior harness

hope this fix's it cuz im sick of this ****